SolaresLarrave
My M5s need red dots!
Dear Folks,
Recently, I learned that when I don't fix Kodak films well, I get a pink cast on the negatives, and if the problem is really serious, it shows pink stains.
I developed an Ilford film a while ago (before learning that you can re-dunk film to solve the problem), and it came with a whitish line along the frame borders, and in a couple of frames, right smacked in the center. Can I assume that this is another case of underfixing?
This roll, like the Kodaks, was underfixed because I assumed that fixing shouldn't take longer than 5 minutes. Now I know it's not true.
Take care and TIA!
Recently, I learned that when I don't fix Kodak films well, I get a pink cast on the negatives, and if the problem is really serious, it shows pink stains.
I developed an Ilford film a while ago (before learning that you can re-dunk film to solve the problem), and it came with a whitish line along the frame borders, and in a couple of frames, right smacked in the center. Can I assume that this is another case of underfixing?
This roll, like the Kodaks, was underfixed because I assumed that fixing shouldn't take longer than 5 minutes. Now I know it's not true.
Take care and TIA!
markinlondon
Elmar user
All is not lost, Francisco. Just refix and rewash. Which Ilford film was this, the plus films usually clear very quickly.
Mark
Mark
CJP6008
Established
A good way to see how long to fix a film for is to take the film leader and dunk it in your beaker of fixer and waggle it about, timing how long it takes to clear. Normally under a minute (Tmax may be longer). Some recommend fixing for double the clearing time, some 3 times the clearing time. Over fixing is not recommended as the fixer starts to dissolve the silver. This is most noticeable in the highlights and can result in loss of highlight details.
Fixing should not take more than 5 mins assuming normal dilutions and sensible temperatures. I always mix the stop and fix at the processing temperature to avoid "shocking" the film .
Pink stain can be washed out. I wash in water at the processing temp. One quick rinse - incersions for 30 secs, stand for 30 secs then discard. Then, esp for Tmax, refill and agitate for 30 secs and leave to stand for 3 mins. Repeat until no pink at all is visible in the wash water. If in doubt pour it out into a graduate and have a graduate of tap water next to it to compare. You will be surprised how long it takes.
Probably best to get pink dyes out as, in theory they could interfere with contrast when printing, causing shadows to print at a harder grade than desired.
Your white lines may well be to do with washing, with residues left behind from that.
My penultimate wash is in distilled water - 3 mins. I then drop each film into distilled water with wetting agent (Tetenal Mirasol) for 30 secs. Grab an end, ttach a film glip, lift out the film, hold at 45 degrees to allow excess water to run off ten into the drying cabinet. it works for me.
Fixing should not take more than 5 mins assuming normal dilutions and sensible temperatures. I always mix the stop and fix at the processing temperature to avoid "shocking" the film .
Pink stain can be washed out. I wash in water at the processing temp. One quick rinse - incersions for 30 secs, stand for 30 secs then discard. Then, esp for Tmax, refill and agitate for 30 secs and leave to stand for 3 mins. Repeat until no pink at all is visible in the wash water. If in doubt pour it out into a graduate and have a graduate of tap water next to it to compare. You will be surprised how long it takes.
Probably best to get pink dyes out as, in theory they could interfere with contrast when printing, causing shadows to print at a harder grade than desired.
Your white lines may well be to do with washing, with residues left behind from that.
My penultimate wash is in distilled water - 3 mins. I then drop each film into distilled water with wetting agent (Tetenal Mirasol) for 30 secs. Grab an end, ttach a film glip, lift out the film, hold at 45 degrees to allow excess water to run off ten into the drying cabinet. it works for me.
SolaresLarrave
My M5s need red dots!
Thanks, guys. I already did the test with my FP4 (Mark, that's my favorite film) and it cleared in 4 minutes. Hence, I'll fix it in 8 (which is easy to remember as it's also the time it should be developed in D-76, according to Ilford's specifications).
This is good news, then. I still can rescue my negs!
Thanks a lot!
This is good news, then. I still can rescue my negs!
Thanks a lot!
markinlondon
Elmar user
Such good taste
4 minutes to clear FP4? Mine clears in about 45 seconds in fresh Ilford Rapid Fixer diluted 1:4. I usually fix for 2.5 minutes. Way over twice the clearing time but not long enough to do any damage. With the hardeners in modern film you'd have to go 10-20 times over to start eating any image silver.
Glad you saved your shots,
Mark
SolaresLarrave
My M5s need red dots!
Mark, I'm not using Rapid Fixer (not by choice... of mine, at least). That's why my times are so relatively long.
In any event, I really like this film. In fact, I'm leaning towards becoming a big Ilford fan. The first time I used FP4 was sheer luck: it was on sale. I took a series of fall shots with one of my Leicas and a yellow filter and the results were simply breathtaking: even better than anything done with Scala. Very sharp and contrasty (but not extremely), I really liked it and decided that if I ever developed my own, it'd be this film. I had used Kodak in the past, but never found it as contrasty and sharp.
There's one emulsion I want to soup; I tried it once with a red filter and the effects were dissapointing, but the second time I used it (with yellow filtration) I really liked the film (my prints and negs were so poorly composed they went right to the garbage except for one): it's the SFX200. I've decided to use it better the next time.
In any event, I really like this film. In fact, I'm leaning towards becoming a big Ilford fan. The first time I used FP4 was sheer luck: it was on sale. I took a series of fall shots with one of my Leicas and a yellow filter and the results were simply breathtaking: even better than anything done with Scala. Very sharp and contrasty (but not extremely), I really liked it and decided that if I ever developed my own, it'd be this film. I had used Kodak in the past, but never found it as contrasty and sharp.
There's one emulsion I want to soup; I tried it once with a red filter and the effects were dissapointing, but the second time I used it (with yellow filtration) I really liked the film (my prints and negs were so poorly composed they went right to the garbage except for one): it's the SFX200. I've decided to use it better the next time.
Gabriel M.A.
My Red Dot Glows For You
FP4+ is excellent film. Slightly ot: You know, although it gets rather grainy, if you rate it at 200 and develop in Diafine, you get some very interesting (but quite different from D76!) tones, almost like Tri-X in Diafine.
kaiyen
local man of mystery
Even in non-rapid fixer, it shouldn't take that long to clear the leader. But, anyway. If 8 minutes works for you, then great.
allan
allan
popstar
Well-known
Francisco - You've probably seen the developing documentation on Ilford's web site. I'm a confirmed HP5+ user, but like FP4+ as well. They recommend fixing for 2.5 to 3.5 minutes. I use 3.5 and have never had an issue with underfixing.
One thing I do add on to their instructions is a 3 minute sit during the wash cycle to leach some of the pink/purple out of the negatives. I use the Ilford wash method mostly: fill up & 5 inversions, fill up & 10 inversions, do my 3 minute sit, then fill up & 20 inversions before hanging to dry. Just another opinion, of which there is no shortage!
- Steve
One thing I do add on to their instructions is a 3 minute sit during the wash cycle to leach some of the pink/purple out of the negatives. I use the Ilford wash method mostly: fill up & 5 inversions, fill up & 10 inversions, do my 3 minute sit, then fill up & 20 inversions before hanging to dry. Just another opinion, of which there is no shortage!
- Steve