eleskin
Well-known
Durham's Water Putty
Durham's Water Putty
On both sides (left and right) of the camera, I have decided the best way to create a surface to anchor the Graflock back is to fill the areas with Durham's Water Putty (Rocky Says "Rock Hard"). I will immerse planks of wood in the putty with screws bent on the ends to secure the wood in the putty. The screws from the grip going sideways should anchor the water putty to the camera. I will try a similar method on the other side, only using screws going through the two holes on the top and bottom created when I removed the release tab and post for the back (right side of camera). This is not as hard as custom sculpting wood blocks for each side. This will ensure a perfect fit!
Durham's Water Putty
On both sides (left and right) of the camera, I have decided the best way to create a surface to anchor the Graflock back is to fill the areas with Durham's Water Putty (Rocky Says "Rock Hard"). I will immerse planks of wood in the putty with screws bent on the ends to secure the wood in the putty. The screws from the grip going sideways should anchor the water putty to the camera. I will try a similar method on the other side, only using screws going through the two holes on the top and bottom created when I removed the release tab and post for the back (right side of camera). This is not as hard as custom sculpting wood blocks for each side. This will ensure a perfect fit!
bmattock
Veteran
You crafty guys are so...crafty! I wish I was handy. Good thing I'm handsome, or I'd have a serious problem.
eleskin
Well-known
Camera 99% done!!!!!!!
Camera 99% done!!!!!!!
I should have some photos of my Polaroid conversion soon. Graflock back and rangefinder ( I also made an extension arm out of the metal from the Polaroid battery compartment to extend the tab that touches the rangefinder arm. I attached it with a small brass nut and bolt) are now attached to the camera. I extended the lenshood out today (I was lucky and found an old hood in the darkroom where I teach advanced Black and White classes). Durhams Water Putty worked like a charm!!!! It filled the gaps between the wood blocks I inserted to the camera body, and gave a smooth finish. I then painted it satin black, and it looks beautiful. This thing is really turning out to look like one mean camera machine!!!!!
Camera 99% done!!!!!!!
I should have some photos of my Polaroid conversion soon. Graflock back and rangefinder ( I also made an extension arm out of the metal from the Polaroid battery compartment to extend the tab that touches the rangefinder arm. I attached it with a small brass nut and bolt) are now attached to the camera. I extended the lenshood out today (I was lucky and found an old hood in the darkroom where I teach advanced Black and White classes). Durhams Water Putty worked like a charm!!!! It filled the gaps between the wood blocks I inserted to the camera body, and gave a smooth finish. I then painted it satin black, and it looks beautiful. This thing is really turning out to look like one mean camera machine!!!!!
eleskin
Well-known
Spacing of the Graflock Back
Spacing of the Graflock Back
Well, here is some awesome news!!!
It just so happens that museum board for matting provides the EXACT spacing needed for accurate focusing with the rangefinder. You only need the thickness of one peice.
What I did was cut two strips and placed them behind the left and right side of the Graflock back.
Focus was checked at infinity and close range, and it is dead on focus!!!
Now all I have to do is seal the gaps on the top and bottom between the Graflock back and the camera body. The best solution seems to be black hot glue gun sticks melted and inserted all around the inside edge of the back where it meets the camera.
After this is done, I will be ready to put film in this thing for the first time.
So any of you thinking about building one like this, I hope my information is helpful!!!!
Spacing of the Graflock Back
Well, here is some awesome news!!!
It just so happens that museum board for matting provides the EXACT spacing needed for accurate focusing with the rangefinder. You only need the thickness of one peice.
What I did was cut two strips and placed them behind the left and right side of the Graflock back.
Focus was checked at infinity and close range, and it is dead on focus!!!
Now all I have to do is seal the gaps on the top and bottom between the Graflock back and the camera body. The best solution seems to be black hot glue gun sticks melted and inserted all around the inside edge of the back where it meets the camera.
After this is done, I will be ready to put film in this thing for the first time.
So any of you thinking about building one like this, I hope my information is helpful!!!!
T
Todd.Hanz
Guest
I recently made a similar attempt with my "converted to packfilm" 110A. I just removed the packfilm holder from the back. The opening at the back of the belows wouldn't cover 4x5 so I had to build a spacer (3/4") in order to have full coverage on the ground glass. I used 3/4" by 3/4" square on three sides and 1/2" by 1/2" at the top near the rangefinder.
After a good weekend spent glueing and measuring and such I gave up on it.
BTW, I used a tube of black latex silicone to seal the gaps to keep light out.
I think this could be accomplished on the 110A with a little better planning and skill than I have, with the rangefinder still useable.
You could always contact Dean Jones for an innovative solution here: http://homepages.ihug.com.au/~razzle/
Todd
Todd
After a good weekend spent glueing and measuring and such I gave up on it.
BTW, I used a tube of black latex silicone to seal the gaps to keep light out.
I think this could be accomplished on the 110A with a little better planning and skill than I have, with the rangefinder still useable.
You could always contact Dean Jones for an innovative solution here: http://homepages.ihug.com.au/~razzle/
Todd
Todd
M. Valdemar
Well-known
THIS post lapsed into a sort of schizophrenic punctuation/grammar style, unlike your other posts in this thread. Was this written like a few hours after the morning meds wore off or something?
eleskin said:
kbg32
neo-romanticist
My old friend, Noah Schwartz, now up in Providence, RI, does 4x5 conversions from Polaroid 110Bs. He apprenticed and worked with Buddy from Marty Forcher's Professional Camera Repair in NYC. Noah actually helped develop and produce 4x5 backs for Nikon Fs back in the day. He is a first rate technician.
http://photo.net/photos/Camera Conjurer
http://photo.net/photos/Camera Conjurer
Godofpoo
I hack, I mod, I have fun
drhfuhruhurr said:
Thats my site...
There are 3 automatic bellow conversions on the site (2 of which use 127mm lenses).
110A/B to packfilm conversions, and a 95B just for good measure.
Oh, and how to convert your auto pack films to accept AAA or 3v lithium batteries.
Sorry, no 4x5, just too far into my pocket than I car to dive.
Last edited:
eleskin
Well-known
Excellent idea Todd
Excellent idea Todd
Todd,
Thanks for the info. Indeed, I will try the black latex sealer. Sounds like an excellent idea.
Why did you give up on your project?
Was it a focus problem?
My camera seems right on the money concerning focus.
Maybe a Polaroid 250 or 350 would be a better project for you.
I did some reasearch on the lens on the 110a and 110b, and it seems rare glass elements were used similar to what Leica used for their Summicrons of that era.
When I post pics of my completed camera, maybe this can be a guide to you for a new project.
I hope more people who read this thread get some information so they can start a project for themselves.
I have a thing for sharing information and feel those who do not share are incredibly selfish, egotistical, and self centered! Sharing is caring, especially in these times!
Excellent idea Todd
Todd,
Thanks for the info. Indeed, I will try the black latex sealer. Sounds like an excellent idea.
Why did you give up on your project?
Was it a focus problem?
My camera seems right on the money concerning focus.
Maybe a Polaroid 250 or 350 would be a better project for you.
I did some reasearch on the lens on the 110a and 110b, and it seems rare glass elements were used similar to what Leica used for their Summicrons of that era.
When I post pics of my completed camera, maybe this can be a guide to you for a new project.
I hope more people who read this thread get some information so they can start a project for themselves.
I have a thing for sharing information and feel those who do not share are incredibly selfish, egotistical, and self centered! Sharing is caring, especially in these times!
eleskin
Well-known
eleskin
Well-known
portillagee
Newbie
Looks amazing
Looks amazing
The camera looks amazing. It's the most exciting camera project I've ever seen. I've always wanted to shoot large negatives in a spontaneous way. I have a 350 and a speed graphic and I want to do what you've done. I haven't taken anything apart yet because I'm unsure of the steps and I don't want to do anything unreversible quite yet. How exactly did you attach the Graflok? Welding? Did you make the spacer for the rangefinder? And what needs to happen up front for the new lens to be attached? I joined the forum because of your project. Any advice you can give me would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
The 350 has a 114mm lens and you put on a 127 and you used mat board for the spacing. Was it 4 ply? I have a 135mm f5.6. How do I determine my proper spacing? Thanks again.
Looks amazing
The camera looks amazing. It's the most exciting camera project I've ever seen. I've always wanted to shoot large negatives in a spontaneous way. I have a 350 and a speed graphic and I want to do what you've done. I haven't taken anything apart yet because I'm unsure of the steps and I don't want to do anything unreversible quite yet. How exactly did you attach the Graflok? Welding? Did you make the spacer for the rangefinder? And what needs to happen up front for the new lens to be attached? I joined the forum because of your project. Any advice you can give me would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
The 350 has a 114mm lens and you put on a 127 and you used mat board for the spacing. Was it 4 ply? I have a 135mm f5.6. How do I determine my proper spacing? Thanks again.
JBee
Member
I just bought me a "Alpenhause" 110B converted to 4x5. I hope I can hold it in my hands in the next two weeks.
I have not been shooting 4x5 for 10 years now; I am exited like a little child !
Anybody with experience with this camera here ?
I have not been shooting 4x5 for 10 years now; I am exited like a little child !
Anybody with experience with this camera here ?
eleskin
Well-known
Response to Looks Amazing / portillagee
Response to Looks Amazing / portillagee
Hi portillagee!
Well, attaching the graflok back was not that difficult. The first step involved placing wood blocks cut down to size on each end of the camera where the back originally mounted. Now you will have to drill/cut out the excess plastic on each side to give the wood clearance to fit. The right side of the camera has more plastic to grind out (use a Dermel tool or get a cheap one for $9 at Harbor Freight Tools like I did) due to the battery chamber. I then used epoxy to glue the wood into the camera. If you noticed, there is a grip on the left side. This was taken from an old Stoboframe bracket that I cut down to size. There are screws that hold the Stroboframe hand grip to the side. These screws also screw into the wood in the old battery chamber, hence providing an even more secure attachment point to the camera. Now the Graflok back had to be shaved down a bit on top and bottom to make room for the viewfinder (1/2 inch or so. About to where the Graflok and ground glass locking pin is on the back. Do not cut past the pin or you will not be able to attach your ground glass!!!) . Durhams water putty (Rocky Sayz Rock Hard!!! I love this stuff!!! I use it for everything around the house!!!) was used to fill in gaps where the wood blocks were inserted. This gives a nice smooth professional look after painting satin black. The next step is to drill extra holes on each side of the Graflok (3 on each side). Make sure you countersink a bit and use flat head screws so when you slide the back in. it goes in smoothly instead of getting caught on an exposed screw head. You then need to get some scrap mat or museum board (4 ply)and space the back for infinity focus. You only need two pieces verticle on each side of the Graflok back. You then screw in the back on each side (place the museum board in front of the screw holes. The screws will go through the mat board and into the wood block, attaching it to the camera. Make sure that before you attach the back, open up the lens and check to see if the ground glass is in the right position. You then have to seal the back to make it light tight. Just smear in some Durhams Water Putty, and smooth it out with a knife to give a nice streight edge angled toward the inside of the bellows. When dry, lightly sand, and paint flat black. The spacer for the rangefinder was made of cut hardwood (cherry) so the entire rangefinder housing can be elevated up so just the eye piece clears the Graflok back (use epoxy to glue the entire rangefinder onto the hard wood. The hard wood was glued onto the top of the camera with epoxy. To connect the rangefinder pin to the focus lever attached to the camera body, I used some scrap metal that had an L shape. I drilled 3 holes. Two on each end of the scrap metal, and one on the end of the focus lever. A piece of plastic was used on the end of the l shaped scrap metal so the pin on the rangefinder would engage without moving back. All of this was bolted on with small sized brass screws. The lens was attached by first removing the old lens, the electronics and parts. you then have to grind some of the metal that may obstruct the new lens, both the flat areas in the front, and the lens opening itsef (it must be wider to accomidate the new lens).
your 135mm lens should be similar to my 127mm, although you may need to space it a little more for infinity, so have some thinner mat board handy . When you focus with this thing, you must adjust the rangefinder pin by bending it slightly to your right for the distance range you are using. So for closer photos, adjust the connecting arm so the area of focus will be sharp in that zone of focus. then for objects farther away, zone focus by using the right f stop to get the depth of feild you want. Once you practice a bit, this thing handles like a 4x5 Leica!!!
Response to Looks Amazing / portillagee
Hi portillagee!
Well, attaching the graflok back was not that difficult. The first step involved placing wood blocks cut down to size on each end of the camera where the back originally mounted. Now you will have to drill/cut out the excess plastic on each side to give the wood clearance to fit. The right side of the camera has more plastic to grind out (use a Dermel tool or get a cheap one for $9 at Harbor Freight Tools like I did) due to the battery chamber. I then used epoxy to glue the wood into the camera. If you noticed, there is a grip on the left side. This was taken from an old Stoboframe bracket that I cut down to size. There are screws that hold the Stroboframe hand grip to the side. These screws also screw into the wood in the old battery chamber, hence providing an even more secure attachment point to the camera. Now the Graflok back had to be shaved down a bit on top and bottom to make room for the viewfinder (1/2 inch or so. About to where the Graflok and ground glass locking pin is on the back. Do not cut past the pin or you will not be able to attach your ground glass!!!) . Durhams water putty (Rocky Sayz Rock Hard!!! I love this stuff!!! I use it for everything around the house!!!) was used to fill in gaps where the wood blocks were inserted. This gives a nice smooth professional look after painting satin black. The next step is to drill extra holes on each side of the Graflok (3 on each side). Make sure you countersink a bit and use flat head screws so when you slide the back in. it goes in smoothly instead of getting caught on an exposed screw head. You then need to get some scrap mat or museum board (4 ply)and space the back for infinity focus. You only need two pieces verticle on each side of the Graflok back. You then screw in the back on each side (place the museum board in front of the screw holes. The screws will go through the mat board and into the wood block, attaching it to the camera. Make sure that before you attach the back, open up the lens and check to see if the ground glass is in the right position. You then have to seal the back to make it light tight. Just smear in some Durhams Water Putty, and smooth it out with a knife to give a nice streight edge angled toward the inside of the bellows. When dry, lightly sand, and paint flat black. The spacer for the rangefinder was made of cut hardwood (cherry) so the entire rangefinder housing can be elevated up so just the eye piece clears the Graflok back (use epoxy to glue the entire rangefinder onto the hard wood. The hard wood was glued onto the top of the camera with epoxy. To connect the rangefinder pin to the focus lever attached to the camera body, I used some scrap metal that had an L shape. I drilled 3 holes. Two on each end of the scrap metal, and one on the end of the focus lever. A piece of plastic was used on the end of the l shaped scrap metal so the pin on the rangefinder would engage without moving back. All of this was bolted on with small sized brass screws. The lens was attached by first removing the old lens, the electronics and parts. you then have to grind some of the metal that may obstruct the new lens, both the flat areas in the front, and the lens opening itsef (it must be wider to accomidate the new lens).
your 135mm lens should be similar to my 127mm, although you may need to space it a little more for infinity, so have some thinner mat board handy . When you focus with this thing, you must adjust the rangefinder pin by bending it slightly to your right for the distance range you are using. So for closer photos, adjust the connecting arm so the area of focus will be sharp in that zone of focus. then for objects farther away, zone focus by using the right f stop to get the depth of feild you want. Once you practice a bit, this thing handles like a 4x5 Leica!!!