Demodres
Established
Hi all RFFs,
I got a question about using my digital camera, a Ricoh GR II, as light meter for my film medium format cameras – the Fuji 645 Professional and Pentax 67.
Is the light metering and following exposures exactly the same between a digital camera with an APSC sensor and the medium format negative? My logical thinking indicates that by keeping the variables (ISO, f-stop and shutter speed) fixed, I should be getting the same exposures and results. However, I wonder if the difference in sensor vs. negative size plays a factor in the exposure?
I could of course just test it out by comparing images between the cameras. However, I am currently travelling and accumulating films for later development hence I cannot do a comparison at this point in time.
All the best and happy shooting, Andreas
I got a question about using my digital camera, a Ricoh GR II, as light meter for my film medium format cameras – the Fuji 645 Professional and Pentax 67.
Is the light metering and following exposures exactly the same between a digital camera with an APSC sensor and the medium format negative? My logical thinking indicates that by keeping the variables (ISO, f-stop and shutter speed) fixed, I should be getting the same exposures and results. However, I wonder if the difference in sensor vs. negative size plays a factor in the exposure?
I could of course just test it out by comparing images between the cameras. However, I am currently travelling and accumulating films for later development hence I cannot do a comparison at this point in time.
All the best and happy shooting, Andreas
vitaly66
slightly tilted
Yes.
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Rob-F
Likes Leicas
Actually I wouldn't feel safe assuming the digital camera is calibrated to ISO standards. would take some trial shots, and/or compare with a known accurate meter.
Hsg
who dares wins
You did not mention what kind of film you're shooting.
For negative film, color or b&w, expose +1 stop. For slide film -.7 stop.
For negative film, color or b&w, expose +1 stop. For slide film -.7 stop.
Ko.Fe.
Lenses 35/21 Gears 46/20
I used this method before I get free exposure meter application for my iPhone.
johannielscom
Snorting silver salts
Works perfectly fine, when you factor in the image dimensions. In order to meter correctly for 6x4.5 or 6x7, make sure you get the digital camera to cover the subject as close as it will appear on film.
Film has a 4 or 5 stop latitude so anything that's off can be fixed in post processing, providing you don't expose up to or past the limits.
I've used a D700 with zoom lens set to 70mm to meter for Tri-X in a Hasselblad with 105mm lens, so the coverage would match as close as possible. Worked like a charm.
Film has a 4 or 5 stop latitude so anything that's off can be fixed in post processing, providing you don't expose up to or past the limits.
I've used a D700 with zoom lens set to 70mm to meter for Tri-X in a Hasselblad with 105mm lens, so the coverage would match as close as possible. Worked like a charm.
rhl-oregon
Cameras Guitars Wonders
I do this when I'm packing the GR alongside unmetered MF--just 2 pieces of gear, i.e. The GR's low ISO is 100, unlike the older models (iirc), so there'd be some compensating if you rate Tmax @64.
If ISO can be matched, variation might still show up if the 28mm GRD is metering multi-pattern (my Ikonta or Kowa are 45-50mm fov) in mixed light. But I set the GR to spot focus/meter and follow that logic. It IS nice to have metadata on the digital image to compare to film results if one is too lazy like me to note exposure info per frame.
But I'd pack my Lunapro, too, if the occasion warranted. Measure twice, shoot once--thinking like a carpenter.
If ISO can be matched, variation might still show up if the 28mm GRD is metering multi-pattern (my Ikonta or Kowa are 45-50mm fov) in mixed light. But I set the GR to spot focus/meter and follow that logic. It IS nice to have metadata on the digital image to compare to film results if one is too lazy like me to note exposure info per frame.
But I'd pack my Lunapro, too, if the occasion warranted. Measure twice, shoot once--thinking like a carpenter.
Corran
Well-known
Don't assume that the digital ISO setting is the same ISO that you use with any given meter. It's very possible that it may work for you, and it's also possible that the digital system is giving you a completely different reading.
Only you can know, by testing your specific system and comparing it to your previous meter.
Only you can know, by testing your specific system and comparing it to your previous meter.
Steve Bellayr
Veteran
App on I phone works for me. I checked against hand held meter and meters in various cameras.
narsuitus
Well-known
Not only do I use my digital camera as a light meter for my medium format film cameras but I also use the digital to take composition test shots (like I once used a Polaroid) when I am scouting for a good position.
Film Rangefinder & Digital Compact by Narsuitus, on Flickr
Rayt
Nonplayer Character
In a pinch I used the light meter app for 4x5 and everything came out ok.
I haven't done a great deal of metering with digital cameras for film. I used to use my Canon EOS 35mm body with matrix metering (usually in "partial" mode for a smaller more defined reading from certain points) and had excellent results this way with transparency film. But I was always more comfortable doing this with a prime lens of similar focal length to that fitted to the film camera involved. I would be concerned about a modern digital camera with zoom lens returning readings that have been adjusted for lens extension and light loss automatically. Great for the in camera exposure you make with it. Not so great for the readings you transfer to another lens of different speed. I'd be guided by the comments from Ricoh owners here in the first instance. They will be able to offer informed opinions about the metering characteristics of the model and how well it compares to film ISO ratings.
Generally, because of the need to ensure digital highlights are not overexposed you would expect readings used for transparency to be able to be dialled in "as is", due to the likelihood of digital camera metering being keyed to highlights, yes? In which case, some additional allowance may be needed for black and white shadow detail (depending of course on where and how you meter your scene).
If you're on the road and unable to arrange access to a decent dedicated light meter (which from what you have said, I gather is the case) then, I think the suggestions to assess readings with a phone app are good. You can't assume a smart phone is a bulletproof solution either, but at least you can compare the digital metering to the app in different situations. And do a sunny 16 test. Find a few good midtones of average reflectivity in full front lit sun, and take some readings. Not just one. From several objects, and surfaces. If the Ricoh and/or app gives you something close to sunny 16, that's a good start. If not, you may need to consider making adjustments, based on any consistent variations from a nominal f/16 reading.
Cheers,
Brett
Generally, because of the need to ensure digital highlights are not overexposed you would expect readings used for transparency to be able to be dialled in "as is", due to the likelihood of digital camera metering being keyed to highlights, yes? In which case, some additional allowance may be needed for black and white shadow detail (depending of course on where and how you meter your scene).
If you're on the road and unable to arrange access to a decent dedicated light meter (which from what you have said, I gather is the case) then, I think the suggestions to assess readings with a phone app are good. You can't assume a smart phone is a bulletproof solution either, but at least you can compare the digital metering to the app in different situations. And do a sunny 16 test. Find a few good midtones of average reflectivity in full front lit sun, and take some readings. Not just one. From several objects, and surfaces. If the Ricoh and/or app gives you something close to sunny 16, that's a good start. If not, you may need to consider making adjustments, based on any consistent variations from a nominal f/16 reading.
Cheers,
Brett
kiemchacsu
Well-known
Is this the end of dedicated light meter?
The reason I asked is because I just purchased a Minotal Autometer IVf with intention to use with Rolleiflex 3.5F. To be honest, I sometime found it quite abundant.
David Hughes
David Hughes
Hi,
As well as ISO and so on, the FoV comes into it. I wonder about using the digital for my MF meter but was converted once I'd switched the digital to CW and adjusted the scene at the back to have the same FoV.
Imagine using the digital as switched on (meaning averaged reading) at the equivalent of 24mm and the MF with a portrait lens on it to see what I mean about FoV.
Regards, David
PS Now all I need to know is the FoV of the phone and so on...
As well as ISO and so on, the FoV comes into it. I wonder about using the digital for my MF meter but was converted once I'd switched the digital to CW and adjusted the scene at the back to have the same FoV.
Imagine using the digital as switched on (meaning averaged reading) at the equivalent of 24mm and the MF with a portrait lens on it to see what I mean about FoV.
Regards, David
PS Now all I need to know is the FoV of the phone and so on...
mfogiel
Veteran
Sometimes I use my M7 as a "semi spot" light meter for my meterless MF cameras, but if you shoot negative film, any basic light metering method which is consistent will do.
SolaresLarrave
My M5s need red dots!
Done in the past using a Nikon F80 to meter for a Mamiya C 220. There's one problem: to know how to meter for the FOV of the lens you're using.
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x-ray
Veteran
ISO is a standard and that's what every Nikon and Canon DSLR that I've owned has been calibrated to. Think about it, if it were calibrated to a different standard we couldn't use a flash meter with it or a spot meter. I use a flash meter with my digital almost every day and it works perfectly.
segedi
RFicianado
I have a light meter app for my phone, but I find the Sekonic meter I have to be more user friendly and easier to read outside.
pvdhaar
Peter
As others have already mentioned, yes it is possible. But.. personally I find it a pain.
Worst of all is the disruption caused by the constant switching between completely dissimilar cameras.. Carrying over shutter speed and aperture settings between them is a drag. Even sunny-16 beats this hands down.
If I don't use sunny-16, I take a very simple Sekonic I-208 with analog read-out along. Its way of working complements my 6x6 slr with waist level finder perfectly. I can see all possible exposure combinations in a single go. It's small, light and runs for years on two LR44 batteries, and what's more, it can do incident as well.
Worst of all is the disruption caused by the constant switching between completely dissimilar cameras.. Carrying over shutter speed and aperture settings between them is a drag. Even sunny-16 beats this hands down.
If I don't use sunny-16, I take a very simple Sekonic I-208 with analog read-out along. Its way of working complements my 6x6 slr with waist level finder perfectly. I can see all possible exposure combinations in a single go. It's small, light and runs for years on two LR44 batteries, and what's more, it can do incident as well.
SolaresLarrave
My M5s need red dots!
The Sekonic L-208 I had used only one 2032 battery.
They are reliable, easy to use and very portable. Just beware of dropping it. They die on impact.
There's an older, selenium model: the L-86. That's one tough little bugger! I've dropped mine just a couple of times and it's still ticking. And it ticks well indeed!
I guess now the tide turned. Just get a meter or the meter app and have fun!
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They are reliable, easy to use and very portable. Just beware of dropping it. They die on impact.
There's an older, selenium model: the L-86. That's one tough little bugger! I've dropped mine just a couple of times and it's still ticking. And it ticks well indeed!
I guess now the tide turned. Just get a meter or the meter app and have fun!
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