Mcary
Well-known
Be interesting to see the difference between images using the M8 at the following setting
ISO 160-3 stops exposure compensation
ISO 320-2 stops exposure compensation
ISO 640-1 stop exposure compensation
I've just recently started using ISO 640-1 stop exposure compensation and been please with but the results in color and when converted to B&W.
jaapv
RFF Sponsoring Member.
ABrosig
Well-known
Not being familiar with the Leica, does the camera offer a spot meter mode? If so, you have a few options. First, you could find something in the scene near a neutral gray and meter off that. Second, take a spot reading on the darkest area, a second on the lightest area and average. For example, if darkest area reads f4 and lightest area reads f8, set for f5.6 and bracket one or even two stops. Third option is read just the darkest area (again on spot) and compensate by about -2 stops, again bracketing. None of this is perfect, but will help get close to a pleasing exposure.
jaapv
RFF Sponsoring Member.
The M240/MM2 offer centre-weighed (classic), matrix and spot exposure modes.
The M8/M9/ME/MM1, however, only have centre-weighed. The M262? I don't know.
The M8/M9/ME/MM1, however, only have centre-weighed. The M262? I don't know.
Lss
Well-known
The value is up to you.
Richard G
Veteran
I thought I understood exposure compensation when I started reading this thread. The OP's question stands. My answer is no. But it could be yes soon for the Monochrom.
I like an ideal exposure for the M9 and make heavy use of the half press to lock exposure to something bright, or dark, depending. Some borderline blown highlights are rescuable with software in colour, but less so with the Monochrom. I am seriously considering dialling in a 1/2 stop exposure compensation for the Monochrom. I probably won't do it. I like to have a manual setting when I am photographing a lot in one session, starting the session with an auto exposure sometimes.
I can't agree with a lot of what's said above, but maybe I haven't thought enough about it. I like a good exposure if possible. Setting ISO to 640 on the M9 and not higher is my habit now in low light or if I need a fast shutter speed after extensive lessons on this here, especially from Mitch Alland. But to use that ISO, and then dial in a 1 stop underexposure with a luxurious Automatic shutter speed of 1/250s means that the final image is unnecessarily dark, forcing some lifting of the exposure in software, increasing the noise and degrading the final image, when 1/125 at ISO 640 without an exposure compensation would have given a cleaner final image.
With the Monochrom you could get away with a default underexposure with much less compromise of final image quality.
I like an ideal exposure for the M9 and make heavy use of the half press to lock exposure to something bright, or dark, depending. Some borderline blown highlights are rescuable with software in colour, but less so with the Monochrom. I am seriously considering dialling in a 1/2 stop exposure compensation for the Monochrom. I probably won't do it. I like to have a manual setting when I am photographing a lot in one session, starting the session with an auto exposure sometimes.
I can't agree with a lot of what's said above, but maybe I haven't thought enough about it. I like a good exposure if possible. Setting ISO to 640 on the M9 and not higher is my habit now in low light or if I need a fast shutter speed after extensive lessons on this here, especially from Mitch Alland. But to use that ISO, and then dial in a 1 stop underexposure with a luxurious Automatic shutter speed of 1/250s means that the final image is unnecessarily dark, forcing some lifting of the exposure in software, increasing the noise and degrading the final image, when 1/125 at ISO 640 without an exposure compensation would have given a cleaner final image.
With the Monochrom you could get away with a default underexposure with much less compromise of final image quality.
jaapv
RFF Sponsoring Member.
peterm1
Veteran
I routinely do this with all my digital cameras but do not underexpose by more than about 0.7 stop. Its easier to pull detail out of a shadow than to recover a blown highlight. In my M8 I do the same but I will also sometimes use the half shutter press to lock exposure (which I have taken from some convenient surface that approximates a grey card). I usually shoot in A mode as its a bit faster than fritzing about in full manual but sometimes go full M when lighting is tricky.
Scheelings
Well-known
The reason is, that for the M8 and M9, underexposing the image by several stops and correcting it in software produces a superior image to the alternatives (increasing the ISO above 640 which produces excessive grain, or lowering shutter speed, which increases the risk of motion blur).
Both of these cameras are both capable of significant image recovery in RAW from underexposure.
willie_901
Veteran
There are all types of guesses.
In some fields of statistics random guesses are a useful tool.
In photography people intuitively combine of their prior experience regarding exposure to the scene at hand to select the final exposure. This is better than a guess. It is an informed guess. Informed guesses are estimates.
Ironically the meter's initial reading is an informed guess as well.
In a way, every exposure is an estimate with the difference being how the estimates are made.
Often it is practical and useful to automatically bracket three exposures (three estimates). Then one can apply the optimum level of global brightness during post production rendering.
In some fields of statistics random guesses are a useful tool.
In photography people intuitively combine of their prior experience regarding exposure to the scene at hand to select the final exposure. This is better than a guess. It is an informed guess. Informed guesses are estimates.
Ironically the meter's initial reading is an informed guess as well.
In a way, every exposure is an estimate with the difference being how the estimates are made.
Often it is practical and useful to automatically bracket three exposures (three estimates). Then one can apply the optimum level of global brightness during post production rendering.
Lss
Well-known
It's a guess only if you approach exposure as a guess. The compensation (perhaps a misleading term) is an offset.
jaapv
RFF Sponsoring Member.
I fear I cannot figure out the meaning of your post. It is an offset that is generally used to compensate exposure in non-standard light situations. It can also be used to introduce a permanent exposure bias.
Lss
Well-known
As I can't decipher the guessing game, we are now equally confused. 
jcrutcher
Veteran
I'm no expert but this is what I do.
1) M9. Yes I'll leave it on A and use exposure compensation at 1.5 stops. This only works well if there are no super bright lights in the scene. Of course if you take a shot and review the photo and the histogram you can fine tune it from there. A quick test shot is easy you don't even have to focus. I turn off Auto ISO start at 640 and go up to 1600 if I have too.
On a M240 I use this process.
1) Whenever I can I'll use Live View or look through the EVF. Set ISO to 1600 but not afraid to go to 6400. The shot replicates in live view so I set SS to 125 and adjust the lens until I get the shot I want. No Exposure compensation used.
2) ISO at 1600 or 3200 leave SS on A, open lens wide open hold shutter release down half way to get the reading then with the release still held down I close the lens 1.5 stops (easy on a Leica lens since they are half stop increments, close it 3 increments) and take the shot. Again review photo and histogram.
I like taking night city shots. Any of these methods work well for me. I might add to that I'm now experimenting the multi-metering function on the M240. Too early to report.
Cheers!
Jim
1) M9. Yes I'll leave it on A and use exposure compensation at 1.5 stops. This only works well if there are no super bright lights in the scene. Of course if you take a shot and review the photo and the histogram you can fine tune it from there. A quick test shot is easy you don't even have to focus. I turn off Auto ISO start at 640 and go up to 1600 if I have too.
On a M240 I use this process.
1) Whenever I can I'll use Live View or look through the EVF. Set ISO to 1600 but not afraid to go to 6400. The shot replicates in live view so I set SS to 125 and adjust the lens until I get the shot I want. No Exposure compensation used.
2) ISO at 1600 or 3200 leave SS on A, open lens wide open hold shutter release down half way to get the reading then with the release still held down I close the lens 1.5 stops (easy on a Leica lens since they are half stop increments, close it 3 increments) and take the shot. Again review photo and histogram.
I like taking night city shots. Any of these methods work well for me. I might add to that I'm now experimenting the multi-metering function on the M240. Too early to report.
Cheers!
Jim
Scheelings
Well-known
The meaning of the original post? Or the post above?
jaapv
RFF Sponsoring Member.
Basically the ones that contain Lss' reasoning.
willie_901
Veteran
Exposure is not a guess. It is an informed estimate for the optimum selection of two parameters: shutter time and aperture.
ISO amplifies the analog signals from the sensor after the shutter closes. The ISO parameter is used to create the rendering luminance predicted by the meter. But it does not directly affect exposure (link).
ISO amplifies the analog signals from the sensor after the shutter closes. The ISO parameter is used to create the rendering luminance predicted by the meter. But it does not directly affect exposure (link).
jaapv
RFF Sponsoring Member.
And what about the shuttertime and aperture when one does not measure the light but etsimates? That is what happens when you dial in exposure compensation to counteract a backlit subject, for instance.
jnclde
Established
Maybe a bit off topic, but I figured the purpose of this thread is to get a properly exposed image in low light conditions - so while I had my M8(I have no experience with the M9)
I found that I could stay at base iso of 160 and push process up to three stops in LR and still get more than acceptable results. I would usually shoot wide open at f1.9 at 1/30th, just enough to not encounter motion blur. The M8 is very capable, but the shutter sound and weight made me sell it ultimately.
M8 voigtlander ultron 28mm f1.9 ltm
I found that I could stay at base iso of 160 and push process up to three stops in LR and still get more than acceptable results. I would usually shoot wide open at f1.9 at 1/30th, just enough to not encounter motion blur. The M8 is very capable, but the shutter sound and weight made me sell it ultimately.
M8 voigtlander ultron 28mm f1.9 ltm