atlnq9
Member
So I have finally gotten around to playing with my Mamiya 7 and love it, don't know why I didn't start using it earlier :bang:. The only lens I have right now is the 50mm.
But I am finding I need a fill flash. I think back when I got the camera I had decided on one of the older Nikon models. Any recommendations?
Also I come from the fully auto slr world and really have no idea how to use a non-ttl flash... Any tips, articles, etc. to help me out?
What about a good small lightweight hand held meter? I do a lot of backpacking and climbing so if that gives you an idea.
Thanks, Andrew
But I am finding I need a fill flash. I think back when I got the camera I had decided on one of the older Nikon models. Any recommendations?
Also I come from the fully auto slr world and really have no idea how to use a non-ttl flash... Any tips, articles, etc. to help me out?
What about a good small lightweight hand held meter? I do a lot of backpacking and climbing so if that gives you an idea.
Thanks, Andrew
IGMeanwell
Well-known
For Nikon flashes, I know some people like the SB-E or the SB24 with the Mamiya... the SB-23 would be nice and small for fill work
I believe that Martin Parr for the times he used the mamiya 7, he used a vivitar 283 as his fill flash.
I believe that Martin Parr for the times he used the mamiya 7, he used a vivitar 283 as his fill flash.
spyder2000
Dim Bulb
There are lots of "automatic" flashes out there that precede TTL flashes and the Vivitar 283 is one of the most versatile and affordable. You can even use it in it's "automatic" mode.
The 283 (and most of the others of this type have a sensor that monitors flash illumination and "quenches" the flash when the level of illumination selected is reached. If my available light exposure requires an aperture of f/5.6, I select the auto mode on the flash that corresponds with f/4 - 1 stop less than my available light aperture and shoot. The results are very pleasing and do not overpower the main source of illumination. Since you are using leaf shutter lenses, the flash X syncs at all speeds so you are free to adjsut shutter speeds and f stops to arrive at a combination you can use with the flash's auto mode.
The 283 also has available a variable power module that allows you to dial the flash power down manually. With this, you'd use the calculator on the flash and your distance to arrive at the proper flash illumination.
The 283 (and most of the others of this type have a sensor that monitors flash illumination and "quenches" the flash when the level of illumination selected is reached. If my available light exposure requires an aperture of f/5.6, I select the auto mode on the flash that corresponds with f/4 - 1 stop less than my available light aperture and shoot. The results are very pleasing and do not overpower the main source of illumination. Since you are using leaf shutter lenses, the flash X syncs at all speeds so you are free to adjsut shutter speeds and f stops to arrive at a combination you can use with the flash's auto mode.
The 283 also has available a variable power module that allows you to dial the flash power down manually. With this, you'd use the calculator on the flash and your distance to arrive at the proper flash illumination.
atlnq9
Member
So I am thinking about the sb23, I like the compactness and lighter weight. Do you think it will have plenty of power for fill?
I guess I am still not following the process for using the flash, you still keep the camera in A mode? Wouldn't that over expose when you add in the flash?
Any meter suggestions or is the built in one good enough?
How about cold weather, anybody use these down to say -20 F? Any problems with the lubricants freezing up? I plan to get the battery cord thingy.
I guess I am still not following the process for using the flash, you still keep the camera in A mode? Wouldn't that over expose when you add in the flash?
Any meter suggestions or is the built in one good enough?
How about cold weather, anybody use these down to say -20 F? Any problems with the lubricants freezing up? I plan to get the battery cord thingy.
spyder2000
Dim Bulb
Fill flash calls for you to monitor the relationship between the available light aperture and the flash aperture. For most color films you'll need to keep the fill exposure one stop less than the available light aperture to maintain an acceptable lighting ratio.
You're going to need to experiment until you feel good about controlling these variables. Personally, I would meter and manually set the camera. I still use a Luna Pro. Maybe larger than what you want, but still a good choice even if the batteries are a pain. I also use my flash off-camera which means using the PC sync cord. And I use an RB, still a leaf shutter system.
You're going to need to experiment until you feel good about controlling these variables. Personally, I would meter and manually set the camera. I still use a Luna Pro. Maybe larger than what you want, but still a good choice even if the batteries are a pain. I also use my flash off-camera which means using the PC sync cord. And I use an RB, still a leaf shutter system.
atlnq9
Member
Thanks, makes better since now, I thought earlier you were saying to keep the camera in A mode but all you were doing is using it to meter...
Now I just need to pick a flash and find a suitable meter.
Now I just need to pick a flash and find a suitable meter.
atlnq9
Member
I think the vivitar 283 is a lot more flash than I need. Any good smaller vivitars?
john_s
Well-known
In "A" mode many flashes can be a bit inflexible. If you want fill flash, you want to set the camera's aperture and shutter speed to your desired ambient light exposure, then select a flash power to be something like 1.5 stops less than normal full flash exposure. Before you buy a flash, look at the combinations of film speed/aperture that are available on the flash. Bearing in mind that you will want the flash to think that your aperture is 1.5 stops wider than it actually is, so that it doesn't give too much light (or that your film is 1.5 stops faster than it actually is). With 400 speed film it's more of a problem.
For example, the tiny Nikon SB-30 has four A settings. The weakest offers f5.6 for 400 film, and this is for full flash (a stop or 1.5 stops more than you might want). For 100 film, it's a convenient f2.8.
For example, the tiny Nikon SB-30 has four A settings. The weakest offers f5.6 for 400 film, and this is for full flash (a stop or 1.5 stops more than you might want). For 100 film, it's a convenient f2.8.
vdonovan
Vince Donovan
I think RFF should change its name to Photo PHd. I really learn a lot in postings like these. Reading other folk's first hand experience with gear and techniques is extremely valuable.
Debusti Paolo
Well-known
Hi look for a metz 40 mz 2 or mz 3 flash on ebay.... for the light meter search for a Gossen digiflash.... Rgrds from sunny Italy