bibowj
Member
Long shot I know, but can someone help me with a problem I cant wrap my head around? Its a flash using High speed film question... Im not a photo novice, but this has been wrecking me.
I have several RF and compact bodies, many with built in flash. Im pretty experienced with using a meter and manually setting up flash but not so much with compacts or TTL based systems. So heres my question:
Im wanting to use pushed TRI-x in the 800-1600 range either by recoding the roll or by using Exposure Comp, shooting at night/ darker times with built in flash (in this case either a Ricoh GR1 or a Contax T2)...with the intent getting on high contrast, high grain images (a la Anders Petersen/ Daido Moriyama). When I do a test with a meter, changing the ISO settings my flash output stays the same, so Im assuming that the camera is adjusting the aperture to fit the output but does it take into account the pushed film speed? Im use to all manual control, so this is challenging for me. I rarely shoot below 800 ISO in black and white, so I need to get this worked out in my head.
Any help you can provide would be so appreciated!
THanks!
I have several RF and compact bodies, many with built in flash. Im pretty experienced with using a meter and manually setting up flash but not so much with compacts or TTL based systems. So heres my question:
Im wanting to use pushed TRI-x in the 800-1600 range either by recoding the roll or by using Exposure Comp, shooting at night/ darker times with built in flash (in this case either a Ricoh GR1 or a Contax T2)...with the intent getting on high contrast, high grain images (a la Anders Petersen/ Daido Moriyama). When I do a test with a meter, changing the ISO settings my flash output stays the same, so Im assuming that the camera is adjusting the aperture to fit the output but does it take into account the pushed film speed? Im use to all manual control, so this is challenging for me. I rarely shoot below 800 ISO in black and white, so I need to get this worked out in my head.
Any help you can provide would be so appreciated!
THanks!
Bill Clark
Veteran
I'm like you, using manual.
Can you turn off the TTL function?
All my film cameras are manual, no TTL.
For my digital stuff I can set the camera to manual mode. But I leave the flash as is, not fooling around with changing the power. The flash is set to manual. Too many variables changed I get confused.
With a flash made for my cameras, I can set the camera to manual mode and use, let's say, 1/60 at f5.6 and the flash will adjust the light for the ISO, shutter and f stop I choose. When the flash would struggle, longer re-charge times, I would set the camera to a higher ASA.
I've heard that with stand development the ASA can vary a wee bit on a roll of film but I haven't tried it. Maybe I should!
Hope this helps you.
Can you turn off the TTL function?
All my film cameras are manual, no TTL.
For my digital stuff I can set the camera to manual mode. But I leave the flash as is, not fooling around with changing the power. The flash is set to manual. Too many variables changed I get confused.
With a flash made for my cameras, I can set the camera to manual mode and use, let's say, 1/60 at f5.6 and the flash will adjust the light for the ISO, shutter and f stop I choose. When the flash would struggle, longer re-charge times, I would set the camera to a higher ASA.
I've heard that with stand development the ASA can vary a wee bit on a roll of film but I haven't tried it. Maybe I should!
Hope this helps you.
blue4130
Well-known
The camera doesn't know that the film is pushed, it thinks it is a 800 speed film (if you recode the cassette) Shoot it as if you loaded an actual store bought 800 asa roll and shoot away. The only time that you have to compensate is at the development stage.
If you are really after Moriyama look, develop in D72 or crank up the temp of D76. That will get you more grain than pushing tri-x.
If you are really after Moriyama look, develop in D72 or crank up the temp of D76. That will get you more grain than pushing tri-x.