tho60
Well-known
Hello!
Some buddies make complaints about using the Soviet auxiliary viewfinder (SAV). When I started shooting with it, the results were disastrous. But since then I developed a method for the correct use. I don’t know whether somebody had explored it prior to me, I haven’t found any description on the Internet.
You will be able to adjudge, whether this method is useable, or not.
This method can be described difficultly, but it can be easy to apply. Well, firstly compose the frame using the SAV. Determine the centre of the frame employing the crosshairs. This will be a reference point. Note that the field image of 85mm lens isn’t correct; the real image is taller than you see. You can count up about two reticles (lines). That’s why the centre will be found higher.
Then align the centre of the frame (as determined above) with a certain point of the rangefinder spot, which will also show you the centre of the frame. This point varies according to the type of the camera and the distance, but it is easy to find. This alignment will secure that this two points coincide with the real centre of the frame, shown at the picture.
To find the alignment point on the rangefinder spot place the camera with removed back on stable ground (tripod, table, chair etc.). Put a cross-haired screenglass or transparent paper on the film rails. Mount an 85 mm or 135mm lens on the camera. Focussing and looking through the screenglass you can easily find the real centre of the frame. Then determine where this centre-point according to the rangefinder spot is. This will depend on distance, but at infinity the parallax error isn’t too significant. So you suffice to find this point at close distances.
Using a bottom loaded camera you can locate the alignment point of the rangefinder spot by test shots only.
This method is like a gunsight.
Please feel free to write your opinions, comments etc.
Some buddies make complaints about using the Soviet auxiliary viewfinder (SAV). When I started shooting with it, the results were disastrous. But since then I developed a method for the correct use. I don’t know whether somebody had explored it prior to me, I haven’t found any description on the Internet.
You will be able to adjudge, whether this method is useable, or not.
This method can be described difficultly, but it can be easy to apply. Well, firstly compose the frame using the SAV. Determine the centre of the frame employing the crosshairs. This will be a reference point. Note that the field image of 85mm lens isn’t correct; the real image is taller than you see. You can count up about two reticles (lines). That’s why the centre will be found higher.
Then align the centre of the frame (as determined above) with a certain point of the rangefinder spot, which will also show you the centre of the frame. This point varies according to the type of the camera and the distance, but it is easy to find. This alignment will secure that this two points coincide with the real centre of the frame, shown at the picture.
To find the alignment point on the rangefinder spot place the camera with removed back on stable ground (tripod, table, chair etc.). Put a cross-haired screenglass or transparent paper on the film rails. Mount an 85 mm or 135mm lens on the camera. Focussing and looking through the screenglass you can easily find the real centre of the frame. Then determine where this centre-point according to the rangefinder spot is. This will depend on distance, but at infinity the parallax error isn’t too significant. So you suffice to find this point at close distances.
Using a bottom loaded camera you can locate the alignment point of the rangefinder spot by test shots only.
This method is like a gunsight.
Please feel free to write your opinions, comments etc.
Valkir1987
Well-known
The revolver locks at each infinity point, but when unlocked you can have it lined up (scale versus white dot) at shorter distances for close focus. Used it for both 85mm lenses, 35mm and 50mm etc.
Never really had framing problems actually. The fact to consider horizontal parralax, is that some camera's have the hot shoe above the optical line of the lens mount and others do not.
I was told that the camera always captures more than 'framed' in the viewfinder. You always shoot more than neccesary, but you can make it allright afterwards. But when you shoot slides... sometimes a head or car comes in the edges you didn't want to be there... auch!
Never really had framing problems actually. The fact to consider horizontal parralax, is that some camera's have the hot shoe above the optical line of the lens mount and others do not.
I was told that the camera always captures more than 'framed' in the viewfinder. You always shoot more than neccesary, but you can make it allright afterwards. But when you shoot slides... sometimes a head or car comes in the edges you didn't want to be there... auch!
ZorkiKat
ЗоркийК&
That's a great way of matching the Turret Finder's view to the camera!
I believe that the turret finders were designed to be used for the "taller" cameras like the Kiev 4 (with meter), or FED3/4/5 or Zorki 3C, 4/4k. All these cameras have roughly the same heights, as well as lens centre to shoe base distances. Thus with a "shorter" camera with lesser lens centre to shoe distances, the finder will show a highly parallaxed view.
There could also be a lot of standardisation defects when the finders were assembled which could explain why some finders work better than others.
However, there is one big design fault which makes the Turret Finders difficult to use with certain cameras. Even if all the parallax and centering issues were considered, this problem will still be good reason for looking at, and trying other types of auxiliary finders.
This would be the large protruding rear part of the Turret Finder. This finder's form was made with the Contax in mind- the shoe on this camera is flush at the centre. So when the large reared Turret Finder is mounted, no part projects at the back.
On the other hand, the cameras derived from the Leica, including the FED-2, have accessory shoes whose back is flush with the camera's back. Mounting a Turret Finder on this type of shoes would leave a big part of the finder projecting at the rear. This can obstruct the eye from properly sighting through the focussing eyepieces. This for me is a serious consideration.
I don't usually use the Turret Finder with lenses longer than 50mm. For wide angle 28 and 35, there is enough leeway to compensate for any parallax errors.
I believe that the turret finders were designed to be used for the "taller" cameras like the Kiev 4 (with meter), or FED3/4/5 or Zorki 3C, 4/4k. All these cameras have roughly the same heights, as well as lens centre to shoe base distances. Thus with a "shorter" camera with lesser lens centre to shoe distances, the finder will show a highly parallaxed view.
There could also be a lot of standardisation defects when the finders were assembled which could explain why some finders work better than others.
However, there is one big design fault which makes the Turret Finders difficult to use with certain cameras. Even if all the parallax and centering issues were considered, this problem will still be good reason for looking at, and trying other types of auxiliary finders.
This would be the large protruding rear part of the Turret Finder. This finder's form was made with the Contax in mind- the shoe on this camera is flush at the centre. So when the large reared Turret Finder is mounted, no part projects at the back.
On the other hand, the cameras derived from the Leica, including the FED-2, have accessory shoes whose back is flush with the camera's back. Mounting a Turret Finder on this type of shoes would leave a big part of the finder projecting at the rear. This can obstruct the eye from properly sighting through the focussing eyepieces. This for me is a serious consideration.
I don't usually use the Turret Finder with lenses longer than 50mm. For wide angle 28 and 35, there is enough leeway to compensate for any parallax errors.
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kievman
Kievman
There are some good alternatives to the Turret finder out there, Other brands etc...... I made a viewfinder mask for my kiev 4a for my S-9 out of the aluminum from an old license plate. There are instructions to do this on a website I found in this forum. Do a search if you are interested -Kievman
David Hughes
David Hughes
I think the problem is that we think of the turret VF as a "FSU" thing but that covers the range FED, Kiev... to Zorki and really it's a pretty good clone of the Zeiss VF and, therefore, a Kiev part primarily. Of course, the later models of the other FSU's RF's were higher and so it ought to work OK. A great pity there's no sales literature or instructions for it anywhere.
Regards, David
Regards, David
eddie1960
Established
I picked one of these up for my Fed 5 in a junk shop for $15 so I can't really complain about it and I got it for 35mm jupiter. As the Fed 5 has a higher shoe than the others it seems fine. And I tend to shoot zone focus with this lens so it's a framing tool. for what i paid i can't complain. The same shop has some contax mount lenses I may grab them and order a Kiev body
ZorkiKat
ЗоркийК&
David, there are materials online from the KMZ Zenit website for FSU viewfinders. These are from the original printed instructions for both the universal "turret" and the 35/85 finders. They are in Russian though.
Universal finder: http://www.zenitcamera.com/mans/vu/vu.html
35/85 finder:
http://www.zenitcamera.com/mans/vi/vi.html
Google Chrome browsers can translate the pages to your language. But the mechanical translations can be quite hilarious. For instance, Zorki is translated as "Sharp" cameras.
It also does say that the universal finder was made for use on both Kiev and "Sharp" (Zorki) cameras.]
David Hughes
David Hughes
Thanks. A pity there's no copyright note on it as that would have nailed down the exact models it was intended for by the year.
My Russian has gone the way of my French etc as everyone wants to speak English these days (sigh).
Thanks again, David
geoffox23
Member
Here is some info in English.
http://cameras.alfredklomp.com/universal/manual/index.htm
http://cameras.alfredklomp.com/universal/manual/index.htm
David Hughes
David Hughes
Many thanks, David