amyukie
Member
Hi Guys,
I just started using film. I bought 5 roll of HP5+ and 5 roll of Arista Premium 400, all 36 exposures. I know my question is kinda embarrassing, when I was shooting this morning I noticed that my RF could advance the film beyond the maximum exposure count. The exposure count ended up in 39 mark. What does this mean? Did I get 3 extra exposures?
Other thing is, I want to develop my own films. I have bought Arista B&W developer but I'm thinking to return it back and get either an HC-110, Rodinal, or DD-X. What developer should I use for HP5 and Arista (Tri-X). I'd like to get my pictures slightly grainy. I love grains.
Thanks!
Yukie
I just started using film. I bought 5 roll of HP5+ and 5 roll of Arista Premium 400, all 36 exposures. I know my question is kinda embarrassing, when I was shooting this morning I noticed that my RF could advance the film beyond the maximum exposure count. The exposure count ended up in 39 mark. What does this mean? Did I get 3 extra exposures?
Other thing is, I want to develop my own films. I have bought Arista B&W developer but I'm thinking to return it back and get either an HC-110, Rodinal, or DD-X. What developer should I use for HP5 and Arista (Tri-X). I'd like to get my pictures slightly grainy. I love grains.
Thanks!
Yukie
n5jrn
Well-known
It depends on where all those "extra" shots went. If any went onto the leader that got light-struck during the loading process, then you're not going to get those, of course. That generally happens as a result of not following the instructions for loading a roll properly (typically the part about advancing the roll to where you can make your first exposure).
That said, I often get more than the quoted number of exposures on a roll, sometimes as much as three extra (27 on a 24-exposure roll) which on a 36-exposure roll would of course be 39 exposures.
There's nothing "embarrassing" about this. If there's room for more exposures on a roll, make them!
That said, I often get more than the quoted number of exposures on a roll, sometimes as much as three extra (27 on a 24-exposure roll) which on a 36-exposure roll would of course be 39 exposures.
There's nothing "embarrassing" about this. If there's room for more exposures on a roll, make them!
kmallick
Well-known
HC-110 with Dilution H (1:63) works great for me for developing HP5 and Tri-X (although I like the former). Very nice tones and scans beautifully. But if you like grains, Rodinal may be the better option.
Katie
Established
I get about 39 shots on my R4A... The extra shots are at the beginning though, before the frame counter goes to 1.
Katie
Established
Also, I use ID11 for HP5, usually at 1+1.
ItsReallyDarren
That's really me
What camera were you using? Leica M4 and later models don't start counting until you secure the bottom cover. If you loaded the film and advanced a few frames the counter will stay at its default until the bottom cover goes on. This doesn't apply for the M2 and M3 which use different method of engaging the film counter.
Thomas78
Well-known
With most films, I get 37 or 38 images on a roll of 135-36.
Araakii
Well-known
But that would only decrease your frame count, not increase it. I've got 38 pretty often but never had any with 39.
amyukie
Member
Guys, thanks for the quick replies.
I use Leica M7. When I load my film, initially I advance 2 times until the arrow touches "0", then I start shooting from there. Now I know that 36 exposures film can go to 38-39 exposures. I thought frames after #36 were redundant..
I am also not sure what is the beginning of the frame. Is it frame#0 or frame#1??
I use Leica M7. When I load my film, initially I advance 2 times until the arrow touches "0", then I start shooting from there. Now I know that 36 exposures film can go to 38-39 exposures. I thought frames after #36 were redundant..
I am also not sure what is the beginning of the frame. Is it frame#0 or frame#1??
amyukie
Member
About the developer, I've heard that Rodinal gives classic rendering with some grains. But many people said Rodinal is not good when pushed. Is it true? I would like to push my film to 1600 when shooting indoor and pull to 100 when shooting outdoor. So which developer fits better?
jb17kx
Established
I adore Rodinal for pushing T-MAX 400 to 1600 (12 min at 1:25) - but the grain is certainly there and there's tonnes of contrast. Works for me but it would probably pay to experiment before you do anything important.
As to the beginning and end of the film - every single inch of the film is sensitive to light, so as long as you don't expose it to light during loading you can expose it to light during shooting
An allowance of about four to five frames is made at the start of the roll for loading, so if you use less than that allowance, or even load in a darkroom or darkbag, you'll be able to use those extra frames. There's also one or two extra frames at the end of the roll that you can get at too.
I forget how Kodak do it, but on Fuji films they're frame-numbered as 000, 00, 0, 1 - 36, E.
As to the beginning and end of the film - every single inch of the film is sensitive to light, so as long as you don't expose it to light during loading you can expose it to light during shooting
An allowance of about four to five frames is made at the start of the roll for loading, so if you use less than that allowance, or even load in a darkroom or darkbag, you'll be able to use those extra frames. There's also one or two extra frames at the end of the roll that you can get at too.
I forget how Kodak do it, but on Fuji films they're frame-numbered as 000, 00, 0, 1 - 36, E.
newtorf
Established
I usually start to shoot from the beginning, even though I know it is already exposed. I regularly get 39exp from a 36exp film.
BobYIL
Well-known
- You can not shoot the same roll 1600 indoors and 100 outdoors, don't expect it to work in any developer.
- In case you want to push the HP5, Tri-x (i.e. 400ISO film) up to 1600 then better use Acufine, Diafine or Microphen so that you would not lose the greater portion of the tonal gradation (meaning too much contrast..)
- Developers like ID-11 (D76), HC-110, Rodinal are rather for moderate pushings, say up to 800 with controllable contrast. (There are some other tricks with stand development however not for the starters..)
- Pulling is easy, just cut development time accordingly. (ISO 100 for an ISO 400 film is not recommended as it will again wipe out a portion of the gradation.. do not pull more than one stop)
- ISO 400 films deliver the grain you look for if you use ID-11 or D76 diluted 1:1 for example, Rodinal accentuates the grain size with razor sharpness. For largest grain use Dektol or paper developer.
If I were you I would rather concentrate on one film one developer to start with, learn pulling-pushing, mastering density, contrast control, etc. and then you can start experimenting further. The modern films have excellent latitude and the old formulas mentioned above should satisfy your most expectations..
crispy12
Well-known
Personally I use either HP5 or Tri-X too as I love the tones they give. They don't curl after development and are easy to scan as well. My favourite developer is HC110 because it lasts for a long time and gives sufficient contrast. It's good for pushing film as well. I've tried Ilfosol 3 but hate it.
Don't forget to buy film fixer! I use Ilford Rapid Fixer because it's easy to find.
I regularly get 38-39 exposures too, they usually appear with frame 00 or 0. Usually the first one is a little cut off so don't shoot any important frames until it reaches 1. Doesn't matter if it's just for fun or practice. Most important thing is to make sure the rewind lever rotates as you advance the film, otherwise it means that you didn't load the film properly (sprockets probably didn't catch).
Don't forget to buy film fixer! I use Ilford Rapid Fixer because it's easy to find.
I regularly get 38-39 exposures too, they usually appear with frame 00 or 0. Usually the first one is a little cut off so don't shoot any important frames until it reaches 1. Doesn't matter if it's just for fun or practice. Most important thing is to make sure the rewind lever rotates as you advance the film, otherwise it means that you didn't load the film properly (sprockets probably didn't catch).
amyukie
Member
Yes, I will not use different ISOs on a same roll. I have heard about Microphen several times. I will get it for pushing and either HC-110 or Rodinal for correct ISO. Thanks for reminding not to shoot important frames before #1.
Another question is about stop bath, fixer, wetting agent, do I need to get the name brand ones or generic ones will do? for example Arista brand.
Yukie
Another question is about stop bath, fixer, wetting agent, do I need to get the name brand ones or generic ones will do? for example Arista brand.
Yukie
Bill Clark
Veteran
Arista brand works fine for me for stop bath, fixer.
amyukie
Member
Oh, I meant photo-flo not wetting agent. But, thanks guys!
raytoei@gmail.com
Veteran
amyukie,
most films were created to be baselined with Kodak D-76/Ilford D76. Most of the classic B&W film were developed using this combination. if you like how classic Tri-X looks then go with this developer for a more classic look.
raytoei
most films were created to be baselined with Kodak D-76/Ilford D76. Most of the classic B&W film were developed using this combination. if you like how classic Tri-X looks then go with this developer for a more classic look.
raytoei
amyukie
Member
raytoei,
Kodak D-76 only comes in powder, right? Don't you need to make a gallon using the whole powder at the beginning? I don't think I'm going to develop film very often, that's why I prefer liquid developer. But I might be wrong. So, can I store the rest of chemical in a container for later use?
Kodak D-76 only comes in powder, right? Don't you need to make a gallon using the whole powder at the beginning? I don't think I'm going to develop film very often, that's why I prefer liquid developer. But I might be wrong. So, can I store the rest of chemical in a container for later use?
mervynyan
Mervyn Yan
start with basics, ID-11/D-76 is an easy choice, no push/pull, learn development process.
I use R9 New One-Shot when it is on sale, or whatever liquid developers on sale once a while.
I use R9 New One-Shot when it is on sale, or whatever liquid developers on sale once a while.