Pál_K
Cameras. I has it.
If there is one thing that captivated my attention in the 1970’s photo magazines, it was the camera advertisements which showed viewfinders. I blame these magazines fully for my gear lust.
What I wanted in 1971 was the sexy Minolta SRT-101 with that seductive 58/1.2 MC Rokkor PG lens. The match needles and shutter speed display in the viewfinder were just wonderful. Alas, what I could afford then was a Pentax SP-500 and a boring viewfinder. That’s the only camera I used for the next 15 years.
Now, many cameras later, many different types of viewfinders later, I’ve come to realize that I do best with minimalist viewfinders - viewfinders with clever displays and lots of information just distract me like a cat chasing a laser dot and almost always my photos suffer.
So here, in no particular order, are my thoughts on the viewfinders from a few of the cameras I have. I’m interested as well in your thoughts and experiences on this subject.
-Minimalist-
These have no shutter speed or aperture indication; perhaps a simple over/under meter reading at most. Exakta, Pentax Spotmatic, Leica M3, Hasselblad, RB67, Rolleiflex, Sinar F1. I’ve done my best work with these.
-One scale-
These are like the Leicaflex SL (showing shutter speed). Considering my comments above, it’s interesting that now that I do have SRT-101’s and the 58/1.2, of all the hundreds of photos I’ve made with them, not once do I remember checking the shutter speed in the display.
-Two scales-
This is like the Canon EF (“Black Beauty”) where there’s a full shutter speed scale visible and a full aperture scale visible all at once. I think the Canon EF’s viewfinder is the most elegant and attractive of all.
-Full info selectively-
This is like the Nikon FM - it will show you your shutter speed, aperture, and exposure level, but it presents each factor in isolation. To me, this probably makes the most sense in what a viewfinder should be.
-Full info about everything-
This is like my Nikon F4, D700, Canon Elan 7NE, Minolta Maxxum 7, or Leica R8. Anything you could possibly ever want to know is all there all the time. The way I can avoid distraction with these is to just check that the shutter speed is ok for my selected aperture. It won’t be a surprise that I’ve chosen just the single central focus point for my D700.
A few thoughts on some viewfinder features I’ve found interesting:
Nikonos V: in manual mode, I like the way the selected shutter speed is steady red while the “correct” shutter speed for the chosen aperture blinks
Nikkormat EL, Nikon FE, Nikon FM3a: these nearly identical shutter speed scales and needles are very attractive to me for some reason probably relating to nostalgia.
Nikon F3/T: total design disaster with that little LCD in the upper corner. Don’t do it again.
Nikon L35AF: amazing mechanical-needle distance scale - it works!
Olympus 35 RC: shutter speed and aperture scales in the viewfinder of this little rangefinder! Anyone else do that?
Olympus OM-2n and Canon F-1N: viewfinder information scales will change based on mode. I really like this.
Ricoh GR-1: an impressive display showing the selected AF area, shutter speed, parallax, approximate focus, and exposure compensation.
Pentax 6x7, Topcon Super D, Nikkormat FT2: the Pentax and Topcon have their exposure needle right below the image in the viewfinder: easy to use, not distracting. The Topcon and FT2 also show the needle in a display on the top plate.
Exakta 500 (Exa II): had a red flag in the otherwise plain viewfinder to indicate the shutter is not cocked.
Yashica Lynx 14E: when both the over/under exposure lights go out, exposure is correct (unlike the Leica M6).
Fuji X-Pro1: the selective optical-electronic hybrid viewfinder is what attracted me to this camera, as well as its traditional controls. There are actually four viewfinder configurations you can have simultaneously: the default OVF and default EVF, then your personally configured OVF and personally configured EVF. You switch between default and personal by toggling the DISP/BACK button and you switch between OVF to EVF by toggling the front lever. The default OVF/EVF has minimal information for those who like uncluttered viewfinders. For the personally configured OVF/EVF, you can fill the screen with every imaginable tidbit of information. I tend to use the default uncluttered OVF most of the time and switch to my configured EVF for close-up work.
So that’s it. What do you like and not like and why?
What I wanted in 1971 was the sexy Minolta SRT-101 with that seductive 58/1.2 MC Rokkor PG lens. The match needles and shutter speed display in the viewfinder were just wonderful. Alas, what I could afford then was a Pentax SP-500 and a boring viewfinder. That’s the only camera I used for the next 15 years.
Now, many cameras later, many different types of viewfinders later, I’ve come to realize that I do best with minimalist viewfinders - viewfinders with clever displays and lots of information just distract me like a cat chasing a laser dot and almost always my photos suffer.
So here, in no particular order, are my thoughts on the viewfinders from a few of the cameras I have. I’m interested as well in your thoughts and experiences on this subject.
-Minimalist-
These have no shutter speed or aperture indication; perhaps a simple over/under meter reading at most. Exakta, Pentax Spotmatic, Leica M3, Hasselblad, RB67, Rolleiflex, Sinar F1. I’ve done my best work with these.
-One scale-
These are like the Leicaflex SL (showing shutter speed). Considering my comments above, it’s interesting that now that I do have SRT-101’s and the 58/1.2, of all the hundreds of photos I’ve made with them, not once do I remember checking the shutter speed in the display.
-Two scales-
This is like the Canon EF (“Black Beauty”) where there’s a full shutter speed scale visible and a full aperture scale visible all at once. I think the Canon EF’s viewfinder is the most elegant and attractive of all.
-Full info selectively-
This is like the Nikon FM - it will show you your shutter speed, aperture, and exposure level, but it presents each factor in isolation. To me, this probably makes the most sense in what a viewfinder should be.
-Full info about everything-
This is like my Nikon F4, D700, Canon Elan 7NE, Minolta Maxxum 7, or Leica R8. Anything you could possibly ever want to know is all there all the time. The way I can avoid distraction with these is to just check that the shutter speed is ok for my selected aperture. It won’t be a surprise that I’ve chosen just the single central focus point for my D700.
A few thoughts on some viewfinder features I’ve found interesting:
Nikonos V: in manual mode, I like the way the selected shutter speed is steady red while the “correct” shutter speed for the chosen aperture blinks
Nikkormat EL, Nikon FE, Nikon FM3a: these nearly identical shutter speed scales and needles are very attractive to me for some reason probably relating to nostalgia.
Nikon F3/T: total design disaster with that little LCD in the upper corner. Don’t do it again.
Nikon L35AF: amazing mechanical-needle distance scale - it works!
Olympus 35 RC: shutter speed and aperture scales in the viewfinder of this little rangefinder! Anyone else do that?
Olympus OM-2n and Canon F-1N: viewfinder information scales will change based on mode. I really like this.
Ricoh GR-1: an impressive display showing the selected AF area, shutter speed, parallax, approximate focus, and exposure compensation.
Pentax 6x7, Topcon Super D, Nikkormat FT2: the Pentax and Topcon have their exposure needle right below the image in the viewfinder: easy to use, not distracting. The Topcon and FT2 also show the needle in a display on the top plate.
Exakta 500 (Exa II): had a red flag in the otherwise plain viewfinder to indicate the shutter is not cocked.
Yashica Lynx 14E: when both the over/under exposure lights go out, exposure is correct (unlike the Leica M6).
Fuji X-Pro1: the selective optical-electronic hybrid viewfinder is what attracted me to this camera, as well as its traditional controls. There are actually four viewfinder configurations you can have simultaneously: the default OVF and default EVF, then your personally configured OVF and personally configured EVF. You switch between default and personal by toggling the DISP/BACK button and you switch between OVF to EVF by toggling the front lever. The default OVF/EVF has minimal information for those who like uncluttered viewfinders. For the personally configured OVF/EVF, you can fill the screen with every imaginable tidbit of information. I tend to use the default uncluttered OVF most of the time and switch to my configured EVF for close-up work.
So that’s it. What do you like and not like and why?