Vintage Classic Cameras:The Unvarnished Truth Olympus OM SLRS, Part 1: The M-1, OM-1,

Vintage Classic Cameras, The Unvarnished Truth
Olympus OM SLRS, Part 1: The M-1, OM-1, OM-1MD, and OM-1n

By Jason Schneider

Back in 1967 Olympus decided to create a full frame (24 x 36mm format) 35mm SLR to complement its very successful Pen F system of half-frame (18 x 24mm format) SLRs that had debuted in 1963. Many within the company suggested that the easiest and least costly path was offering a rebranded product made by another manufacturer. However, the renowned chief camera designer of Olympus, Maitani Yoshihisa (last name first per Japanese custom), fought hard to convince them that the best strategy was to design and build a truly unique product in house. Finally, after a yearlong struggle, he carried the day. His concept: a revolutionary ultra-compact SLR that was as durable and capable as the bulky, hefty pro SLRs of the day, such as the Nikon FTn Photomic. Over the next 4 years he relentlessly pressed his staff to create a pro-spec camera that was 20% smaller and 50% lighter than the Nikon and incorporated a shutter capable of 100,000 actuations. The result, unveiled at Photokina 1972, was initially named the Olympus M-1 in honor of Maitani, but after a very small production run, it was renamed the OM-1 to assuage complaints by E. Leitz Wetzlar, maker of the famed M-series Leicas.

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Original Olympus M-1 unveiled in 1972 soon became the OM-1.

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Olympus M-1 in chrome with 50mm f/1.4 G. Zuiko lens.

On first impression the Olympus OM-1 seems to be an elegantly scaled down version of a traditional SLR, and it certainly incorporates some time-proven elements. These include a horizontal travel focal plane shutter with rubberized cloth curtains, a manual, center-the-needle metering system employing 2 CdS cells, one on either side of the eyepiece, that read directly off the focusing screen at maximum aperture, and a mechanical meter cross-coupling system that uses an intricate series of coupling cords.

However, when you look closer, it’s clear that the OM-1 is a lot more than a downsized conventional 35mm SLR. The knob on top where the shutter-speed dial is usually found is the film speed dial, and it has a lock to prevent accidental mis-setting. The actual 1-1/000 sec plus B shutter dial is concentric with the lens mount (like a Nikkormat) and it couples to the speed control cam stack (which controls the slit width, the pallet engagement and the retard engagement) that’s located beneath the mirror box to save space and lower the height of the pentaprism. The reflex mirror itself is oversized to prevent image cutoff with lenses up through the Olympus 800mm telephoto, and it incorporates an air-damping piston-type shock absorber to reduce noise and vibration, the first in a 35mm SLR. The shutter itself uses special thin high tensile strength fabric cords to connect the shutter curtains rather than ribbons to save space while enhancing durability. One could go on for many pages detailing all the ingenious space saving stratagems to be found in the OM-1, but you now have some idea why it took over 4 years to design the camera that ignited the ultracompact 35mm SLR revolution of the ‘70s.

Other notable OM-1 features: 11 interchangeable viewing screens removed through the open lens mount; standard screen is matte with split-image rangefinder and microprism collar; pentaprism viewfinder shows 97% of actual picture field plus meter needle; ratchet type wind lever operates in a single 150-degree stroke or several shorter strokes; double exposure prevention with override, self-zeroing additive exposure counter; rewind crank and hinged back; ASA settings 25-1600. The camera measures an incredibly compact 5-3/8 x 3-1/4 x 3-3/16 inches and weighs a mere 24.0 ounces with standard 50mm f/1.8 F. Zuiko lens. NOTE: All Olympus OM-1 models including the OM-1. OM-1 MD, and OM-1n are designed to use discontinued 1.35v (PX625 or equivalent) mercury batteries and must be modified by installing a diode to give accurate meter readings with currently available 1.5v alkaline or silver-oxide batteries of the same size. Any well-equipped camera repair outfit can do this job for about $50, and if you’re reasonably handy you can do it yourself for about half that amount.

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Rare black Olympus M-1 courtesy FilmPhotograph.com

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Rare gold finished Olympus OM-1 with custom covering, courtesy CameraQuest

Olympus M-1: According to Olympus 52,000 bodies bearing the M-1 logo on top were produced before the name was changed, making them relatively uncommon, but not super-rare. What is super rare is a factory black M-1—it’s said only 25 of them were made, and you may rest assured they fetch a pretty penny. Bottom line: If you’re a user collector who wants to tote something more distinctive and conversational than a run-of-the-mill OM-1, you can indulge yourself by acquiring an M-1 for $225-400 (chrome body with 50mm f/1.8 or f.1.4 Zuko lens) a premium of about $50-100 over the standard issue OM-1. No, it won’t accept a motor drive without modification, but then you wouldn’t want to modify an original classic M-1 anyway.

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Olympus OM-1 with 50mm f/1.8 F. Zuiko lens

Olympus OM-1: The oldest OM-1 bodies dating from 1973 would not accept the Olympus OM Motor Drive 1—the bottom cover had to be replaced, an MD switch added to allow the motor to be mounted, and the entire slow speed governor plus some brass speed-governing cams had to be replaced. With newer ‘old-style’ OM-1 bodies you only had to add the MD switch, a new bottom cover, and calibrate the switch. Bottom line: An original OM-1 is fine choice so long as motor drive compatibility is not important to you, but if you ever plan to add one of these beautifully designed ultra-compact accessories in the future, go for an OM-1MD or an OM-1n, either of which will accept the motor without modification. OM-1 cameras in clean functional condition with 50mm f/1.8 or 50mm f/1.4 Zuiko lenses are currently available in the $100-200 price range but you can occasionally snag one for less than 100 bucks. Black OM-1s are less common than chrome models but they’re currently priced similarly or perhaps slightly higher.

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Black Olympus OM-1 with 50mm f/1.4 G. Zuiko lens

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Olympus OM-1MD with 50mm f/1.8 F. Zuiko lens, MD logo on rewind side.

Olympus OM-1MD: In 1974 Olympus brought forth the OM-1MD, which, as its name implies, is an OM-1 that accepts an Olympus motor drive directly without requiring any modifications. This version usually has a small “MD” on the front and a small slot with a circular cover on the bottom that covers the motor drive coupling. The MD logo is located on the front of the body, either as a small plastic escutcheon near the bottom on the rewind side of the camera, or a sticker placed higher up on the other side, directly below the shutter release. Sometimes the MD logo is absent entirely, either because it fell off or was never applied at the factory. Bottom line: At prices generally ranging from $100-275 depending on lens and condition, the OM-1MD is a good choice for OM-1 lovers that require motor drive compatibility, but the OM-1n may be even better. But remember, when it comes to buying user-collectible classics, functionality and condition are everything—the specific model is less important so long as it has the features you need.

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Olympus OM-1MD body with MD sticker on front below shutter release.

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Olympus OM-1 in chrome with 50mm f/1.8 F. Zuiko lens.

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Black Olympus OM-1n body.

Olympus OM-1n: The final iteration of the OM-1, it’s quite similar to the OM-1MD but it adds a redesigned film advance lever, a flash ready/ exposure confirmation LED in the finder, and automatic X sync regardless of the position of the FP/X switch when it’s used in conjunction with a T-series Olympus flash unit mounted on a Flash Shoe 4. It’s easily identifiable by an OM-1n logo on the top plate. While the original OM-1 isn’t unreliable, some of the early models did experience problems when subjected to hard use by pros and Olympus steadily incorporated mechanical upgrades to enhance their reliability. Some of these are found in the OM-1MD, but all of them wound up in the OM-1n. Bottom line: The OM-1n is probably the best choice for OM-1 fans seeking a manual metering ultracompact analog SLR that’s a reliable everyday shooter. If you’re into spare no expense vintage glitz, there were various Olympus OM-1 and OM-1n cameras finished in gold and with exotic coverings including snakeskin and red leather. While the price of normal chrome or black OM-1n models have escalated in recent years to $100-250 depending on lens and cosmetics, they still represent good value fir the money. The fact that these classics are complemented by an extensive system of high-quality lenses and accessories that are readily available at affordable prices is a substantial part of their enduring appeal.
 
I like the chrome OM1's, but I like a nice black paint OM1 a lot more.

625 battery diode? interesting.

Where are they sold?

pics installing?
 
I've been working on a "wabi-sabi" black OM1 project: Originally purchased as a parts unit, but for some reason the well-worn camera appealed to me, even if the surface corrosion of the die-cast metal parts didn't. I originally thought to repaint those areas with actual urushi lacquer, but ended up using hobby paint instead. And despite some visible brush marks, I think it looks a lot better now than it did with blistered and flaking factory paint. Deteriorating foam under the top cover can damage the pentaprism and should be removed if possible.
 
I didn't see a mention of one of the OM system's more unusual features (for an SLR) -- the aperture dial at the front of the lenses. I thought that was odd, until I got into rangefinders and realized that was "the norm." Another reason why RFF'ers like the OM system. Certainly I think it makes handling easier than having the aperture ring close by the focusing ring at the back of the lens.
 
I was gifted a chrome OM-1 with 50/1.8 a few years back. I can see why it had such a large impact on the camera industry when it was introduced. Dramatically smaller and lighter than contemporary Nikons or Canons. I still use my OM-1, hard not to like the bright viewfinder and compact dimensions.

Jim B.
 
My local newspaper switched to Olympus back in the day. This was a major move, garnered a lot of attention. The Olympus lineup of accessories was very complete, enough to rival Nikon. Motor drives, 250 film backs, pistol grips, etc.
 
As your other reviews, a knowledgeable and interesting review. Thanks. It brings back memories of when I was in Korea in 74 to 76. I don't remember the pricing of the Olympus cameras from the PX catalog but it didn't seem to fair well in desirability compared to Nikons and Canons, as an example. By then I was looking for auto-exposure in M42 mount and ended up with a Fujica ST 901; perfect for me.

From others I knew that had the Olympus, I was able to handle some of them. Naturally, the placement of the aperture and shutter controls seemed uncomfortable at the time, but it really was genius. Their lenses gained almost instant fame for their sharpness.

Thanks again for this and the previous reviews here at RFF.
 
Thanks, Jason. It was good to read the history of the camera and the variations thereof.

I remember when the OM-1 was introduced and the sensation that it created. I even remember some of the magazine ads for it from the time. Not only was it very compact, but it must have been the quietest SLR, with that damped mirror, and the wind mechanism was silky smooth.

A friend of mine with a Nikkormat - a very desirable camera at the time - immediately started talking about getting an OM-1. I would have dearly loved one, myself, but as a student of limited means, I had to stick with my Yashica TL-Super (purchased for a great price as a demo model), which actually served me very well.

- Murray
 
I would be fascinated if you would give us some details of the modular "Hasselblad like" prototype that preceded the OM-1 but was shelved in favour of the camera you describe so well above.
 
I like the chrome OM1's, but I like a nice black paint OM1 a lot more.

625 battery diode? interesting.

Where are they sold?

pics installing?

Here is an outline of converting 1.5v silver oxide to 1.35v using a Schottky diode.

http://www.rokkorfiles.com/conversion.htm

The diodes can be sourced from electronics supply stores, or online (Mouser has them for 39 cents.)
 
I didn't see a mention of one of the OM system's more unusual features (for an SLR) -- the aperture dial at the front of the lenses. I thought that was odd, until I got into rangefinders and realized that was "the norm." Another reason why RFF'ers like the OM system. Certainly I think it makes handling easier than having the aperture ring close by the focusing ring at the back of the lens.

Thanks for your observation. I didn't really get into the handling characteristics of the Olympus OM-1, but suffice it to say these cameras cradle in your hands very comfortably and their controls are ergonomically placed and operate smoothly. There is a slight learning curve because of the unorthodox placement of the aperture and shutter speed rings, but it is by no means daunting, and as you note rangefinder fans will feel quite at home. Indeed, many Leica M shooters favored the Olympus OM series.
 
I bought an OM 1 in 1976 which was the first time I ever saw one in a camera shop and it was an instant like. I still got that camera and use it occasionally to this very day.
 
Great article on my favorite 35mm SLR.
One minor technical quibble about the oversized mirror. Olympus never sold a 800mm lens.
They had a 600mm f6.5 and then straight to a 1000mm f11.
Until they got into the large aperture tele’s (180mm f2, 250mm f2, and 350mm f2.8) they were a bit underrepresented in telephoto lenses compared to Nikon.

Edit; Interchangeable screens were a ‘must have’ for me. Always strongly preferred a plain matte screen, in Olympus parlance a 1-4 or 1-10 were my screens. Never could abide microprisms or split wedges messing up my view. With focusing on a matte screen you just had to be
doggone sure you had a precise diopter correction for your eyesight.
 
For all those times each week you reach for that 800mm.

Well, no. But... I have attached several cameras to a 700mm f11.7,
At the focus of my very old 60mm refractor telescope, a two element air spaced achromat. Surprisingly good image quality for a simple lens.
 
Vintage Classic Cameras, The Unvarnished Truth
The actual 1-1/000 sec plus B shutter dial is concentric with the lens mount (like a Nikkormat) and it couples to the speed control cam stack (which controls the slit width, the pallet engagement and the retard engagement) that’s located beneath the mirror box to save space and lower the height of the pentaprism.

This wasn't anything new nor revolutionary: The Nikon F (1959) and most of the Pentax M42 SLR (i.e. Spotmatic 1964) also has the same mechanism beneath the mirror box to save space.

One could go on for many pages detailing all the ingenious space saving stratagems to be found in the OM-1

Not that many new stuff on the OM-1. The Olympus marketing people want us to think there were tons of new ingenious improvements inside, but that was just hype. For example: Curved prism? Already done in the Leicaflex.

Sadly the OM was marketed as a camera for "professional" usage but a quick glance at the innards of the film advance mechanism will show one of the weak points. I suggest OM owners to advance film with care.

And the OM lenses were computed for compactness first, everything else in #2 place. That's why some of them don't quite get to the same levels of performance than their Nikon/Canon/Pentax/Minolta competitors. Pentax collectors have experienced how "lens downsizing", state-of-the-art being equal, ends up in smaller performance: Ask any Pentax collector about the "K line" (read: "bigger") bayonet lenses versus the subsequent "M" (read: "small") line of lenses.
 
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