Voigtlander Perkeo 11 lens re lube.

G

Guest

Guest
My shutter speeds on this camera are all fine as I exercise all of my shutters on a regular basis. However the lens has obvious issues within and it must be dried up grease.
I had been considering on sending it off for a service but the $200 quote put me right off.
So I saw this chap on YouTube called Chris Sherlock, he has been servicing many old shutters and when watching him dismantle my particular lens, I thought all I need to do is remove the front barrels and clean them out and re lube and replace. It seems to be a very simple job to accomplish.
So I am going to have at it but I am wondering what lens lubrication will I need to buy and who from.
Any help appreciated, cheers James.
 
MicroLubrol Helimax-XP Camera Telescope Optical Instrument Focusing Helicoid Grease w/PTFE

Is at Amazon.

Careful notes of the lens position once if breaks free is paramount, as you can often screw the lens in at different points and throw off the focus. It will "seem" like its going back together correctly but it will be off just enough to drive you crazy...
 
the lens has obvious issues within and it must be dried up grease.
Click to expand...
Assuming you mean the focusing? Looks simple when watching the video. What deserve attention before/during removing the front element:
  • angular position of distance scale wrt front element; normally these two are kept together by three grub screws; look for maks on the lens mount, indicating the precise position of the grub screws
  • small grub screws are fragile: the metal walls on the sides of the slot tends to bend and break
  • starting from infinity, how many turns (and fractions) before the front element comes free
  • probably, for a front-element focusing camera the helicoid has a single thread, which makes life easier, otherwise, extra care and note-taking
  • grease should have low volatile content; otherwise "stuff" will condense on the inner optical surfaces
Even if careful, it would be a good idea to check and possibly adjust the infinity point. Best method IMO is using a known good SLR: http://rick_oleson.tripod.com/index-123.html
 
Well I have removed the focus holder and the front element, cleaned the two sets of threads and the glass as per Mr Sherlock demonstrated.
Now regarding the grease, I purchased some fancy stuff that was recommended for servicing my Nikon 8000 ED scanner rails, costs four times as much as the others. The technician said it was the best of the best.

Krytox by Chemours GPL 205 Grease, Pure PFPE/PTFE, 0.5 oz Tube (D10170248)

So considering how easy it was to get in and clean it all, I have used this stuff. Feels very nice, better than new.
Now I have the fun of getting the focus back into line. I looked with the back open with shutter on B with one of my Hasselblad ground glass screens, to see if that would help. I will try your help Bernard. I thought about trying to mark things to save me doing this but decided to do it all properly.
Tripod time, I also use an accurate laser rangefinder when using this camera and my Hasselblad SWC/M so that will come in handy as well.
 
When you replace the front element if you start on the wrong thread of the helical you will know, it wont be a little off. Just a piece of wax paper taped to the film rails will suffice to tell if its back together correctly. Fine adjustments, the kind requiring more precise measuring tools or set-up, would require lens shims or other more complicated measures.
 
Well the hardest part was trying to get it in focus for infinity. Thought about the Olson method but just did not see how it would work for this camera.
So went with the ground glass option.
Now I am 63 and wear glasses, so I knew it would not be easy. Put it up an a tripod, got shutter open at B using some paper to keep it open and had at it with the Hasselblad ground glass through a window, it’s sunny bright here today.
When I got it into what I believed was infinity and tried to set in place the focus ring, it would not sit all the way down, resulting in me having to turn the lens a quarter clockwise to raise it higher to allow the focus ring to drop into position for securing.
I then tried looking at 3 meters and 5 meters objects. Not terribly happy with what I saw.
So I am going to run a test film through it making notes on the distances. Have a graveyard close by, so the tombstones will give a good reference.
One further point is, that I could not get the ground glass screen totally into the 6x6 area at the back, so it was further away from the true flat film plane, that could answer my problem. Time will tell.
 
I had two Perkeo like these with not moving lens. They feel like welded in.
I have to remove shutter, apply WD-40 and heat, cool by using electrical stove warming up pad. Once lens was out, I washed out old gunk and re-lubed with some nicely colored grease from CanadianTire Auto department, just regular, not evaporating grease. Here is absolutely no need for some very special oils on those primitive focus helicoids.
To collimate the lens I used focus target with fat black cross on it.
I set camera on tripod and with ground glass on the tripod at minimal focus distance and had focus target well lit while the rest was darker.
If lens is in focus at one meter, it will be in focus at infinity.
 
Hey Kostya,
Thank you for that advice, I will do exactly what you say and see how it looks. I certainly have the stuff to put a good tent over myself and the back of the camera, to shut out the light.
I also thought that since I have most likely less than 25 years left to live, any reasonable grease would do the trick for me.
I have to admit I am saddened by the thought of what will happen to my camera equipment when I die. The thought of it being simply thrown away is a terrible thought and I have no children to pass it all onto.
Cheers again,
James.
 
Well Kostya, you were right. I just did the one meter test and it was spot on focus. Used a bright lampshade and the minute hand of a clock as the target attached to the white lamp shade.
So since the cost of film is outrageous, I am not going to bother running a test film through it.
Thank you once again.
Cheers,
James.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom