Voigtlander VCII or handheld meter?

keytarjunkie

keytarjunkie

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I looked this up before posting and found helpful info but nothing conclusive...I'm trying to gather information that will be most relevant for me. Thanks.

I got a M2 and VC 35/1.4 last week, and I've already shot a few rolls that have come out really nicely. I've just been using my eye as a meter and have been pleased with the results so far. I'm wondering if it's worth spending $200 on the VCII meter, or if I should get a handheld meter. I'm not planning on ever shooting in a studio, but I am hoping to get a medium format camera in the next year or less (and I don't know if whatever I choose will have a meter built in or not). I would really only use the meter to get a basic idea of the light for when my eye has trouble, I don't need something extremely accurate (I'm not shooting any slides). However...for $200 I could also buy a beat up 20/2.8 AIS for my Nikon SLR. I could walk around with those two cameras and have the SLR's built in light meter at my disposal. Or I could buy the VCII and leave it in my pocket most of the time. OR I could start saving for a 25mm or 21mm skopar, but I wouldn't have a meter then either. Thoughts?
 
The VCII is hard to beat. Lives on my IIIF. Won't work if you use external finders, though. If you don't need an incident meter, go with the VCII.
 
I think the VC-II looks really cool and wouldn't mind having one on my M4 but I just can't get past the price. For what it costs one can get a full featured digital flashmeter new. I have a couple of handheld meters so I just keep one on a string on my neck and consult it when the light changes. The VC-II is very simple in its circuitry and construction. If they charged $75 for it they'd be getting 5 times its cost to make. I know that photo stuff is always inflated in price but there are some places I just have to say no.
 
It is expensive. But my Sekonic 508 looks kinda funny on that hotshoe! ;)

Seriously, I use both. The VCII is really convenient, though, and is as useful as a built-in meter, IMHO.
 
i have used a light meter for years, i always have a small pocketable one on me. i got a VC II, I recently parted ways with it. I did not like the 'workflow'.

- put the camera up to your eye
- press the yellow button
- remove the camera from your eye and enter the desired/correct settings for the correct exposure
- dial those settings in to your camera
- bring the camera up to your eye and shoot

versus taking meter readings at random intervals and translating those settings in to the camera so it is ready to go. if it is a set environment i'll meter the darkest part of the environment/room and the lightest part then adjust as needed. simple, easy, quicker for me.
 
IIRC there was a poll somewhere - here or elsewhere - that showed users preferred the Sekonic L-208 the most. The VCII came in second. For all practical purposes, both meters rate equally high in usability and accuracy. The VCII scored high for looks but many couldn't justify the price. You can get the Sekonic for less than $100.
 
Certainly, if you buy the VC, you are paying for the convenience. I hang it on the neck string if the shoe is busy and it's fine. For this reason alone, I use it far more than my sekonic 358. If your guesstimations thus far have been fine, you'll do well with any meter. Get one you will have with you and that can give you quick readings.

IMHO, a barnack and a handful of sekonic are strange bedfellows. Maybe M2s feel differently.
 
t.s.k. said:
IIRC there was a poll somewhere - here or elsewhere - that showed users preferred the Sekonic L-208 the most. The VCII came in second. For all practical purposes, both meters rate equally high in usability and accuracy. The VCII scored high for looks but many couldn't justify the price. You can get the Sekonic for less than $100.
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That's exactly how I feel. $189 is a LOT of money to me. I actually have a Sekonic L-508, the same meter that Jim (pickett) said is awkward on the hot shoe...lol The 508 is big, but it has a neck string and I just leave it hang. I don't hang my cameras from straps, I hold it in my hand so the meter and camera wont bang each other. The 508 was a lot more expensive then the VC-II when I got it new years ago, but it has a spotmeter, which I use frequently, and the incident and flash modes that I use for studio work, so it does a lot more for me than the VC-II and was therefore worth the money.
 
The main thing, whichever meter you choose, is to take the time to learn to use it correctly. Meters think everything in the world is grey, and they'll bite you on the rear if you don't learn that. :)
 
Right on some people meter on anything not thinking the compensation needed to make black pure black and white pure white. I actually can meter a small cut our 18% gray card once and use that exposure settings all the time that's if I don't change position or light does not differ much. That's actually the joy of using film as the wide latitude can let you make a few stop mistakes in guesstimating.
 
gilpen123 said:
Right on some people meter on anything not thinking the compensation needed to make black pure black and white pure white. I actually can meter a small cut our 18% gray card once and use that exposure settings all the time that's if I don't change position or light does not differ much. That's actually the joy of using film as the wide latitude can let you make a few stop mistakes in guesstimating.
Click to expand...

An incident light meter gives you the same result with a lot less hassle :D
 
From what I've understand, you are very good at guessing the right exposure when you make photos. In that case, I personally recommend you to get a cheap, light and portable handheld lightmeter such as the Sekonic L208 which you can get around 70 USD or less as second hand. Save the rest of the money to buy another lens later on :)
 
I now use a Sekonic 308s having been a fan of the VCII but felt I needed reliable incident metering occasionally.

I never did like using the VCII camera mounted ... for some reason I'd occasionally point the camera at the scene, adjust the meter to give me shutter speed and aperture then forget to transfer it to the camera. I did this time and time again to the point of it making me change to the 308s which is a pain because it's something else to carry ... I really really like in camera meters!
 
Have to agree with keith here,have a mr4 meter and dont use it anymore,if I took more colour would probably put it back on .The problem with a hand held meter is you dont really know what its taking its reading off unless its a look through one or you can walk right up to your subject.For bw though experience is enough.
 
I bought a sekonic l-28 off eBay for $20 it's not a small meter but I use it frequently, before that it was a ge pr-1 i got for .99 both have served me well. I even got the incident dome for the pr-1 and it's small enough to drop in your pocket. I never had the vc-II just handheld meters or the leicameter mc for my M3 which also works well enough for my needs. There are plenty of options that allow you to save a few dollars
 
Chriscrawfordphoto said:
An incident light meter gives you the same result with a lot less hassle :D
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Seconded. But neither approach is any use for shadow detail if the subect tonal range is long. The only way to be sure of shadow detail is to read the darkest area in which you want texture and detail, and key the exposure to that.

Cheers,

R.
 
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