VueScan and Workflow

[Takkun]

I'm getting into the swing of things with VueScan, though I'm now trying to optimize my workflow so I don't spend 2 hours developing and scanning and ending up with several gigabytes at the end of it.

I primarily use Aperture, but I'm using Bridge to load previews, check critical focus, etc before I import. Having done digital file management for years, I've got everything from that point on down.

What do you all do, and what output settings do you use? I'm scanning grayscale TIFFs at full resolution, but obviously that's overkill for most of what I do, I just like having the option. Maybe the 'shoot raw' mentality is getting to me.

Furthermore, what do you use on the 'color' tab when scanning? I'm leaving mine set to 'none' and pull down the curve low/high sliders to the minimum.

 

[Bob Michaels]

First off, you must understand that the ONLY thing the scanner does is position the film under the light source, focus the lens, and send a red, a blue, and a green light through the film, and read the light or shadow on its sensor several thousand positions per inch of film. The scanner does this consistently, without any adjustment, no matter if the film is positive or negative, b&w or color, correctly exposed / over exposed / under exposed. Then it sends this unmanipulated data back to the CPU.

In the CPU, the scanner driver software (i.e. Vuescan) converts this into an image file, applies adjustments based on your selections, and prepares it for output as either b&w or color, 8 or 16 bit, TIF or JPG. In other words, any adjustments to the file you make by the scanner driver software settings can be made later by you with you image editor. In many cases, you can make the adjustments better yourself. The only key is to choose an output file type that does not dispose of any data. A 16 bit TIF at max resolution is the optimum. Personally, I let Vuescan merge the very similar red, blue, and green channels into greyscale since I cannot do it any better and it saves a later step.

It all becomes a rather simple process once you understand what the scanner does and what the presets in the scanner driver software do. Then it comes down to your own skill in image processing.

I have been using Vuescan for ten years now, know what just about every conceivable option does, and consistently use settings very close to the defaults without adjustments

 

[michaelwj]

I pretty much follow Chris Crawford http://chriscrawfordphoto.com/technical/scanning.php which gives me consistent results from vuescan. The only thing i change is the file name, which I set up as a Roll#_Frame#.tiff

I have the scanner save the images into a separate folder, and from there I import them into LR, which moves them into a year-month-day folder hierarchy. I import the shots from each roll independently so its a bit more chronological in LR. Once in LR, I change the capture date to the date I started the roll. Its sounds tedious but its not, I generally get ~5 keepers per roll, so there's no problem scanning at full resolution.

Michael

 

[Dan Daniel]

I scan 120 film at 1600 dpi. I consider these 'proofs.' I've found thsat going to 800 is just too low resolution and kills the pleasure of medium format. Going to 3200 is just overkill, for time more than anything. I come back and rescan individual negatives that I want to take to a final print.

On the color tab, I have it set for manual color. I do not change anything else in this tab. EXCEPT for the B/W type. I use Kodak/TMAX-400 for film brand, but this isn't critical. What I do find is that choosing either TMAX-100 or TMAX-400 brings up a series of options in the next tab, the B/W type tab. Here there is a series of options of CI along with two developer choices.

I think this must stand for Contrast Index? Anyway, by changing this you can change the overall contrast of the scan file. I adjust this to get a full range in the histogram. If a negative goes off the scale, keep trying higher and higher CI's until it pulls back in. Once it is within the histogram, I scan.

Other than that, no manipulations in Vuescan. I'm looking at it as a simple range developer. I use other programs to adjust the scan file to my liking.

 

[Pioneer]

My workflow is pretty straightforward. I do simple scans at a relatively low resolution and then import those to Lightroom. I use those scans as an electronic contact sheet from which I will select those I would like to take a bit further. I then re-scan those at full resolution and use Lightroom or Photoshop to work with the file until I am happy with it. At that point I start doing work prints with my printer until I have reached an output that I want. I may print myself or I may send it out to be professionally printed, usually the latter.

 

[brbo]

First off, you must understand that the ONLY thing the scanner does is position the film under the light source, focus the lens, and send a red, a blue, and a green light through the film, and read the light or shadow on its sensor several thousand positions per inch of film. The scanner does this consistently, without any adjustment, no matter if the film is positive or negative, b&w or color, correctly exposed / over exposed / under exposed. Then it sends this unmanipulated data back to the CPU.

In the CPU, the scanner driver software (i.e. Vuescan) converts this into an image file, applies adjustments based on your selections, and prepares it for output as either b&w or color, 8 or 16 bit, TIF or JPG. In other words, any adjustments to the file you make by the scanner driver software settings can be made later by you with you image editor.

That is a simplification.

There are settings in Vuescan Input tab that will affect the RAW output of the scanner and there is NO way to do that in driver/software afterwards (RGB/infrared exposure, input media type selection (i.e. color negative), individual channel analog gain...).

 

[philipus]

Basically I use Vuescan to obtain as much image info as possible, which always results in a very flat and booring looking image.

I use ColorPerfect's guide (google) to obtain a linear scan which I then "develop" in ColorPerfect in Photoshop. The Colour tab is set to None and I am currently experimenting with not using the film presets at all. Same, and especially, in CP where this setting has a major impact on the colours.

I use the Edit setting because it is big enough for what I use the images for mostly. As necessary I scan at max rez but not as a matter of course.

For colour neg films I follow Hamrick's guide on how to lock exposure and film base (forget the exact terms now) which save some time. I always scan at Fine Mode (I have two Coolscans).

 

[mfogiel]

I use the following:
INPUT
task: scan to file
source ( in my case) Nikon LS-9000
media: B&W film ( unless the density is so high it is clipping the highlights, in which case I set to colour negative, or if not sufficient, to slide film, otherwise, you can scan as colour negative if you have a tanning developer)
bits per pixel: 16 bit gray
make gray from:auto ( I saw no difference between channels)
batch scan: off - does not work for me
frame number: as it goes
frame offset: in 35mm no offset is normally needed, in 120 film, you have to work it out if you have a Nikon 9000
frame spacing: for me it is 0
preview resolution: 667dpi
scan resolution:4000 dpi (max)
rotation: as necessary
mirror : no
auto focus: always
auto scan: none
auto save:scan
auto print:none
auto eject:exit
auto repeat:none
number of samples:1
scan from preview:none
fine mode: YES ( this slows down the scanning, but in my case gets the best quality)
multi exposure: no - this is only useful if doing chromes, I do B&W only
lock exposure: no - again, this is useful with colour negative
red analog gain:1
green analog gain:1
blue analog gain:1
default options: no

you have to see the preview histogram at the bottom

CROP
crop size: manual
x size: as necessary
y size: as necessary
auto offset: no
multi crop:no
lock aspect ratio: no
preview area: default
default options: no

COLOR
color balance:manual
neutral red;1
neutral green:1
neutral blue:1
black point: as needed, I normally do not touch it if there is no clipping
white point: same
curve low:25
curve high:75
brightness:1
brightness red:1
brightness green:1
brightness blue:1
B/W vendor: Tmax 400
b/w type d-76, ci=40
scanner color space: built in
printer color space: sRGB
monitor color space: sRGB
view color: sRGB
pixel colors: no
default options: no

OUTPUT
default folder: as you please, but keep it on your hd, it will be faster
printed size: fixed dpi
printed dpi: 360 ( this is wwhat I normally keep on my old Epson R2400)
auto file name:yes
tiff file:yes
tiff file name: 1+ ( this way you get the shots numbered in each folder)
tiff size reduction:1
tiff multi page:no
tiff file type: 16 bit gray
tiff compression: no
the rest is blank till log file: yes
log file max size :2 MB
default options: no

on PREFS page, I have left everything as it was, although I always keep the default options untagged


Hope this helps.

 

[Takkun]

Thanks for the advice. I understand that the idea is to get the most 'raw' data out of VueScan and make adjustments in PS/Aperture, but I wasn't entirely sure what the Color tab was doing to my files. I'll leave it turned off.

To refine my query: how do you all handle scanning a roll of film and managing the files? Do you just scan picks, or do a low-res scan of everything and work with those? I fear that scanning an entire roll at full resolution only to discard shots later is a huge time and disk space drain.

 

[Bob Michaels]

......................
To refine my query: how do you all handle scanning a roll of film and managing the files? Do you just scan picks, or do a low-res scan of everything and work with those? I fear that scanning an entire roll at full resolution only to discard shots later is a huge time and disk space drain.

I put my negs in PrintFile pages (always have for 30 years) and lay each page on top of a lightbox. I use a very good lupe and edit critically to identify those absolute top choice frames. This usually averages about one per 36 exposure roll. Then I review and re-edit. Only then do I turn on the scanner.

I find there is absolutely no problem editing a negative rather than a positive image. Everything you want to know is right there. And, you are editing from the first generation (the actual film) instead of some low rez second generation copy.

By only scanning the top 3-4% or so of my exposures, I both save loads of time and can properly address the best. BTW, when I select a neg for scanning, I am committing to follow through up to making an 8x10 proof print. That keeps me focusing on editing out all but the very best.

 

[mfogiel]

Do not turn off the color tab, rather play with the B/W vendor, film type and ci, once you have loaded up an image in preview. Observe the histogram - you want the widest possible spread of the histogram without clipping.

 

[philipus]

To refine my query: how do you all handle scanning a roll of film and managing the files?

I scan all images on a roll at Vuescan's Edit setting which I find is a good balance between speed/time and image information. The reason I do this is that I like having digital copies of all my photos, good or bad, so that I can later easily go back and look for photos. I don't "see" the photos as well with a loupe on a light table, plus I find it significantly easier to simply open a folder on the computer instead of finding a sheet of negs in the archive. YMMV.

As necessary I rescan at full resolution. But for use on my site and on Flickr and for the printing I do the Edit setting is sufficient.

The Coolscan 9000 scans 12 frames in one go so it's usually 3-4 scans for a whole roll. While the scanner is working I usually spot the images in Photoshop and save a master TIFF file. All in all one roll of colour negative film takes about 60 minutes while a black and white will take 45-50 minutes.

 

[michaelwj]

By only scanning the top 3-4% or so of my exposures, I both save loads of time and can properly address the best. BTW, when I select a neg for scanning, I am committing to follow through up to making an 8x10 proof print. That keeps me focusing on editing out all but the very best.

Awesome idea.