richardHaw
junk scavenger
yaiks! dangerous...
Looking back at it, I think I can do a reversible solution to this. not non-destructive but you can use it as an S-mount lens again with no problems.
1: use an adapter from S-M, external mount.
2: mill a new one or get rid of the brass ring for infinity adjustment.
3: if you still need a few mm to reach infinity, mill the collar on the housing itself to recess it by a bit.
4: find a solution for the locking pin which may involve drilling and tapping a new hole.
5: the most challenging part is to salvage a coupling collar for the RF from an old lens and make it work on this frankenlens.
I believe that this is doable, not difficult and is at least reversible when you get tired of it.
I am just too busy to make my own lathe as I still have plenty of things to fix let over from last year
looks like MS should be black listed. this is odd given that it is a shop known to be a maverick in the industry.
Looking back at it, I think I can do a reversible solution to this. not non-destructive but you can use it as an S-mount lens again with no problems.
1: use an adapter from S-M, external mount.
2: mill a new one or get rid of the brass ring for infinity adjustment.
3: if you still need a few mm to reach infinity, mill the collar on the housing itself to recess it by a bit.
4: find a solution for the locking pin which may involve drilling and tapping a new hole.
5: the most challenging part is to salvage a coupling collar for the RF from an old lens and make it work on this frankenlens.
I believe that this is doable, not difficult and is at least reversible when you get tired of it.
I am just too busy to make my own lathe as I still have plenty of things to fix let over from last year
looks like MS should be black listed. this is odd given that it is a shop known to be a maverick in the industry.
The problem with the S-mount 35/1.8 is the metal shroud around the rear optical group. The lens itself fits on most coupled S-M adapters, but that metal shroud around the rear optical group ads too much thickness to the lens such that the rear of the lens interferes with the focus cam on an M-mount body resulting in the lens/adapter combo not being mountable.
Here's a photo of the lens converted by Miyazaki-san on the left next to a standard S-mount lens on the right. You can see how he's slimmed down that metal shroud around the rear optical group (and added a focus cam around it). Its probably possible to just slim that piece down and then use the lens on an S-M adapter.
He does some amazing work, but he is getting on and his eyesight isn't what it used to be. He should really train someone to take assembly, repair, and conversion work off his hands so he can focus on designing new lenses.
MS Optical Miyazaki-san by Jon, on Flickr
richardHaw
junk scavenger
I see! Damn, that's another thing to consider!
MikeL
Go Fish
I was going to modify a M cam arm so that the S-mount 35mm f1.8 would clear on a S-M adapter. A friend had some parts, and I'd rather bugger a cam arm than the lens shroud. And the arm would still have enough to work with Leica lenses like normal. Just never got around to it.
(Maybe move some of this out of the photos thread into a repair/modify thread?)
... and done.
Peter Jennings
Well-known
Thanks for consolidating, Jon.
richardHaw
junk scavenger
Done with this thing. It's still ever so slightly squeaky but unnoticeable. I polished the helicoids with my polishing compound and a coarse polishing cloth after a very light sanding on the affected part. I am now satisfied with this.
I tried molybdenum grease and it was too heavy but the noise was gone. I was intending to ise a heavier grease for this but then I thought that inwanted to use the wheel for this at times when i have an umbrella on the other hand so I used a lighter one instead. Compromises...
I tried molybdenum grease and it was too heavy but the noise was gone. I was intending to ise a heavier grease for this but then I thought that inwanted to use the wheel for this at times when i have an umbrella on the other hand so I used a lighter one instead. Compromises...
Highway 61
Revisited
I dremeled it with a brush wheel. this is SOP for me on all helicoids, also dunked it in the alcohol bath to pickle
I wouldn't have. There are still things which need to be done by hand, not with a motor powered tool (ask watchmakers). The triple zero steel wool will both clean and smoothen the metal. A Dremel brush will clean it of course but will leave its surface rough, even if it looks soft. Also, the motor powered brush can dig micro craters here and there on the helicoid threads - not good.
Also, the pickles alcohol isn't to be used there. Lighter fluid (aka Ronsonol or whatever - here in the EU it's "F gasoline") is the solvent to use there, because after having outgassed it will leave a thin layer of lubricant on the metal which will match the new grease.
richardHaw
junk scavenger
Hi. I use a soft pig hair brush. It does the job really well with no problems at all. it's very gentle. we rarely use motorized tools in my family's watch repair shop. usually only reserved for buffing or trimming fabricated parts
alcohol is very effective and economical at removing grime at least in my experience. i also use naphtha for getting rid of old grease. benzene is what we really use at the watch repair shop for this but it's dangerous with a toddler in the house
The lens sounds a lot better now that it has been broken-in. certainly not too different from F-mount Nikkors where aluminium alloy has been used in place of brass:bang: