W/NW 28mm non street

[ferider]

Great shots so far everyone!
Just out of curiosity does anyone naturally "see" in the 28mm framing when they're shooting? Kind of an akward question I know, but when I'm shooting right now and I see something I want to shoot, I take a few steps to explore different angles of it, and than when I put the camera to my eye the subject is essentially framed the way I want it without thinking or taking steps forward or backwards (most of the time, I'm obviously not perfect in this regard). This is probably easier because 50mm is pretty close to our natural FOV, but does anyone do this with 28's or is it a longer slower composition process?

I look at it like this, Chris: 50mm is the FOV for one eye (other eye closed). 28mm is for both eyes. Works for me.

 

[Gabriel M.A.]

Canon 5D + Tamron 28-75 f/2.8 (@ 28mm)


28mm and it's "non street"

 

[noimmunity]

These were all taken with the ZM C Biogon 21/4.5, which is an effect 28 FOV.

Dawn's early light

Dawn's early light by areality4all, on Flickr

Light show/Dark show

LIght show, dark show by areality4all, on Flickr

Unbridled

Ruins by areality4all, on Flickr

Spring comes to the Puy Mary

Spring comes to Puy Mary by areality4all, on Flickr

 

[Gabriel M.A.]

These were all taken with the ZM C Biogon 21/4.5, which is an effect 28 FOV.

OMG - How on earth did you get these shots to not exhibit harsh highlights or shadows? I really would like to know.

 

[noimmunity]

With the camera set on A and exp comp of -2/3 to -1, I first pan the entire frame to see what kind of stop range is involved, then usually choose an f-stop in the middle, higher or lower depending on what I want to emphasize. Then I play with Kelvin settings, curves, RGB levels, color, saturation and hue in post to create the atmosphere that I remember from the moment. Pretty standard stuff, I suppose.

I can't wait to get back the rolls of RVP 50 I shot at the same time.

 

[sanmich]

I discovered the 28 FL about two years ago, and like it very much...

 

[setyotomo]

here's my 28mm "non-street" shot...(i guess both on closest distance, 0.7m)






and here's on the street market.. my fist 28mm lens, we do need to get closer 😀 but with f/11 i can get really get fast snap shot

 

[Gabriel M.A.]

With the camera set on A and exp comp of -2/3 to -1, I first pan the entire frame to see what kind of stop range is involved, then usually choose an f-stop in the middle, higher or lower depending on what I want to emphasize. Then I play with Kelvin settings, curves, RGB levels, color, saturation and hue in post to create the atmosphere that I remember from the moment. Pretty standard stuff, I suppose.

I can't wait to get back the rolls of RVP 50 I shot at the same time.

Right, but still, some of the scenes are bound to go beyond the range of the sensor and/or monitor, and the highlights and shadows seem to be pretty well reigned-in. So you don't do any highlight/shadow salvaging at all?

I guess exposure with the kind of meter found in the M8 (and all metered Leica Ms) will be better metered (all things considered) with a wide-angle lens than with a longer focal length. But since the M8 has the latitude (and temperament) of slide film, and given that it sounds like you have disciplined yourself to expose with slide film, I can see how this is more straight-forward to you.

I usually don't have time to meter the scene and reflect; I have to make some pretty quick decisions. This is a reminder (to me) that skills learned in one kind of photography can be very useful for other kinds.

Thanks.

 

[noimmunity]

So you don't do any highlight/shadow salvaging at all?

Well yes, I suppose I do, but I don't access it through the shadow/highlight sliders. I getter better overall results by using a combination of curves and especially the relative lightness slider applied to specific colors that can be accessed through Capture One Six's color editor. Since I don't use the M8 for black and white, I haven't yet thought of what I'd do in that case.

I guess exposure with the kind of meter found in the M8 (and all metered Leica Ms) will be better metered (all things considered) with a wide-angle lens than with a longer focal length.

Not exactly. Have to be careful with WA on the M8, because the meter is metering for everything the lens sees, including that part outside of the crop. Even on the R4A, metering with a super wide can be tricky.

I usually don't have time to meter the scene and reflect; I have to make some pretty quick decisions. This is a reminder (to me) that skills learned in one kind of photography can be very useful for other kinds.

Negative print film gives you extra latitude for quick decisions. Digital (except on the RD-1, M8, and M9) makes bracketing a cinch. Acquired skill that becomes second nature on the other hand is probably the name of the game for really successful photography, and I admire people who cultivate it!

 

[maddoc]

28mm and not "street" ....

 

[dct]

different lenses, but all at 28mm

different lenses, but all at 28mm

Different lenses, bodies, formats and media, all mixed up to emphasize the fact: all are 28mm focal lenght, or equivalent.

And no "street", no post processing.

I really like this FOV and you can do alot walking in or stepping back.

Nature...

Architecture...

Social...

(For lens and image detail information look at my 28mm album.)

 

[k.a]

M8, the two first with industar-69 and the other two with elmarit asph

 

[ampguy]

Canon 28/2.8 ltm:

 

[Greyscale]

 

[christian.rudman]

ferider, loved that little series, the motocycle shot looks dangeroussss! and bob michaels, what else can i say that others havent about your cuba shots, they are gorgeous!

 

[Lss]

I guess Sigma DP1 counts.

 

[nksyoon]

 

[nksyoon]

 

[meven]

 

[jsrockit]

Very nice meven...