Wanted: a M-mount with motor advance

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paparazzi mano

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Hi folks,

I do enjoy my day off with my old trusty M3 DS. But sometimes I feel that I am losing out on a fleeting moment when I have to crank the film.

Does anyone have the same problem? If so, can you please share your solution.

Many thanks,
 
cranking is half the fun! I enjoy it as much as i can! :D


(unlike rewinding which i hate because i don't have an M3 rewinder but an M6)
 
Like Stefan said, the Hexar RF is the best choice. It has built in motor-winding like a modern 35mm SLR. There's also the Leica motor that can be added to the M4-P, M6, M7, and MP but it attaches to the bottom and adds weight and size like the old winders on 35mm SLRs before the built in wind became common.
 
I have an M7 with the Motor M attached as well as the Hexar RF. If you use wide angle lenses, the Hexar will work out great for you. If you're shooting longer lenses, stick with the Leica / Motor. The Hexar is a really awesome camera.
 
Be carefull about Hexar and Leica Lens :

Unfortunately serious doubts about 100% compatibility of Leica M lenses to Konica Hexar RF bodies must logically extend to the Konica M lenses. IF you buy a Konica M lens, I suggest shooting it wide open at its closest focus distance to see if that particular lens focuses correctly with that particular body. Focusing errors, if they exist, will show up wide open and at the closest focus distance, and can easily be masked at medium and small apertures at medium and far distances. (cameraquest.com) :rolleyes:
 
Ronchnam said:
Be carefull about Hexar and Leica Lens :

Unfortunately serious doubts about 100% compatibility of Leica M lenses to Konica Hexar RF bodies must logically extend to the Konica M lenses. IF you buy a Konica M lens, I suggest shooting it wide open at its closest focus distance to see if that particular lens focuses correctly with that particular body. Focusing errors, if they exist, will show up wide open and at the closest focus distance, and can easily be masked at medium and small apertures at medium and far distances. (cameraquest.com) :rolleyes:
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Well, Dante Stella has quite a bit to say about compatibility between Leica and Hexar RF. See here, http://www.dantestella.com/technical/hexarrf.html

Harry
 
Ronchnam said:
Be carefull about Hexar and Leica Lens :

Unfortunately serious doubts about 100% compatibility of Leica M lenses to Konica Hexar RF bodies must logically extend to the Konica M lenses. IF you buy a Konica M lens, I suggest shooting it wide open at its closest focus distance to see if that particular lens focuses correctly with that particular body. Focusing errors, if they exist, will show up wide open and at the closest focus distance, and can easily be masked at medium and small apertures at medium and far distances. (cameraquest.com) :rolleyes:
Click to expand...

This has been discussed to death. Conclusion: an overblown Internet meme.

Any focusing inaccuracies are much more likely to be due to operator error at the wide apertures than due to any system incompatibility (assuming such an incompatibility exists at all).

EDIT: Incidentally - try not to change colour on your text, it gets really difficult to read on the RFF dark background (it will look like this probably looks to you ;))
 
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How about a Leicavit or even better, Tom A's RapidWinder? of course, you will need to buy an M2, M6, or MP. I don't think you can easily adapt an M3 to take one of those.

Of course, the M8 or M9 has a built-in winder.....
 
Tompas said:
The whole matter seems like a clear case of FUD to me.
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I guess someone had problems on his particular camera/lens/eye combination, and the whole thing got blown into a major nerdcore pitfight. People got so involved with calculating back focus, film thickness etc. that they didn't get to take pictures.
 
rxmd said:
This has been discussed to death. Conclusion: an overblown Internet meme.

A
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Some people do have problems with focusing. According to Greg Weber, the acknowledged expert, the problem derives from an inadequate, nylon part in the rangefinder mechanism of early examples of the RF. These earlier cameras are also more likely to fall out of alignment.

So the suggestion to check that the camera focuses properly with the lens you propose to use still holds good.
 
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