Washing film - How do you do it??

stompyq said:
Does water tempreture matter? I'am guessing the warmer the water the more stuff will dissolve?
Click to expand...

Kodak used to recommend that all solution temperatures (wash too) be within 3 degrees F of the developer. Not sure what Ilford recommends.

JIm b.
 
I open my lid, set it under the kitchen faucet and turn it on nice and slow. Every minute I dump it out and refill it. If the water is still pink after 5 minutes, I go 5 more. I'm a simple person :).

I start at a similar water temperature and slowly increase the hot water. It gets more of the anti-halation (sp?) pink stuff off my Tri-X.
 
It isn't a good thing to use significantly warmer, or hot, water to rinse film. Ever heard of reticulation?
Instead of turning up the temperature to remove more antihalation dyes from T-grained films, try fixing for a longer time, and running it through some HCA/washaid before rinsing. It really helps. Make sure you're using a pre-rinse or two before developing as well.
 
I place the reels of film into a plastic milk container that I've cut in half, I've also punched a few holes along the bottom edge to help regulate the drainage. I run a slow stream of cold tap water into it for 10 minutes or so while occasionally taking a reel and moving it back and forth through the pooled water to facilitate the washing process.
Distilled water w/proflo for a minute to finish.
Hang to dry.
 
First of all I use a non-hardening Rapid fixer. I then fill the 35mm/120 developing tank six times with water at 20C, constant agitation, for a total of approx. thirty minutes - depending on film speed and size.
Final rinse in distilled water for 2 min - don't squeeze the emulsion . The film is then air dried at room temp. for 8 hours.
 
After fixing (I use Kodak F-24, non-hardening) I rinse in filtered tap water for a minute, then soak in hypo clear or Permawash (or I just make my own) for 2 minutes with continuous agitation for the first 30 seconds, then at 30 second intervals. Then I rinse for 10 minutes with a continuous flow of water sufficient to replace the volume once per 5 minutes. Then I dip in photoflo for 30 seconds.

In other words, I follow the Kodak recommendations, with a paranoia factor added in.
 
Bobbo said:
I open my lid, set it under the kitchen faucet and turn it on nice and slow. Every minute I dump it out and refill it. If the water is still pink after 5 minutes, I go 5 more. I'm a simple person :).

I start at a similar water temperature and slowly increase the hot water. It gets more of the anti-halation (sp?) pink stuff off my Tri-X.
Click to expand...


This is a good example of not what to do. Firstly, like the other poster said, you run the risk of reticulation. What temperature is your hot water? Personally, I always keep my wash and chemicals within 4 degrees celsius of my dev. and fixer. I've never had a problem with reticulation yet.

Also, Ilford recommends fill and dump: 5,10, 20 - I will do an extra 30, because a more vigorous agitation will remove the by products of fixer than just leaving it under a running tap. Also, you will save water on your bill. If you end up doing a lot of film in a place like Texas then you will save money.
 
I have only gotten reticulated film once, and it was with Efke KB100 8x10 sheet film. I had my mixing valve set incorrectly and didnt' notice it. I washed the film in water over 115°F degrees! Efke film has a relatively delicate emulsion, and I didn't use a hardening fixer.

I routinely wash film that was developed at 68°F in "cold" (for Texas) tap water that is 80°F, and I have never in the 12 years I've had this darkroom experienced reticulation of any emulsion or format with that temperature differential (12°F). My experience suggests that reticulation requires a rather more substantial temperature differential than that. But I don't know. Maybe I've been lucky.
 
It's almost impossible for a modern B&W film emulsion to reticulate - no matter how hard you try. Older film emulsion copies from India and/or the Eastern Bloc are a whole different story.
 
Run tapwater into the tank for 5 mins, empty it and pour in a mix of distilled water and a little wetting agent, tip out and repeat distilled water with a wetting agent. Works for me.
 
loquax ludens said:
I have only gotten reticulated film once, and it was with Efke KB100 8x10 sheet film. I had my mixing valve set incorrectly and didnt' notice it. I washed the film in water over 115°F degrees! Efke film has a relatively delicate emulsion, and I didn't use a hardening fixer.

I routinely wash film that was developed at 68°F in "cold" (for Texas) tap water that is 80°F, and I have never in the 12 years I've had this darkroom experienced reticulation of any emulsion or format with that temperature differential (12°F). My experience suggests that reticulation requires a rather more substantial temperature differential than that. But I don't know. Maybe I've been lucky.
Click to expand...


There is also a lot of conjecture as to what temperature a film will reticulate. It will vary of course on the film and how robust it is. Also, the difference in temperatures between cycles.
 
Bob Michaels said:
I use the Ilford wash sequence but follow the Ilford recommendations of 5 inversions, then 10, then 20. I do not do the extended inversions of the previous posters. Then a few drops of PhotoFlo in distilled water.
Click to expand...

Same. Seems to work well and only takes a few minutes.

Then, no squeegee or any touching of the film surface. Hold one end of the film in each hand and slowly draw through bath of photoflo mix and then hang to dry. All liquid quickly drains off. No marks or scratches.
 
Bobbo said:
I open my lid, set it under the kitchen faucet and turn it on nice and slow. Every minute I dump it out and refill it. If the water is still pink after 5 minutes, I go 5 more. I'm a simple person :).

I start at a similar water temperature and slowly increase the hot water. It gets more of the anti-halation (sp?) pink stuff off my Tri-X.
Click to expand...

I've never seen any "pink stuff" coming off my Tri-x!
 
Set the tap mixer temp to around 20 cel. Run water into tank.Set up coffee machine. Dump water and refill. Extract coffee.Dump water and refill.Steam milk.Dump water and refill. Drink coffee.Dump water , squeegy with fingers then hang. Fairly technical process, must get the extraction correct.
 
Ilford method rules. I can't imagine it any other way. Quick, simple, effective.

I basically do all my development at room temperature, and adjust development time accordingly (I'm fortunate to have a basement that stays pretty reasonable year-round). I keep a stock of tap and distilled water for my processing. I do my developing in room-temp distilled water, washing in the room-temp tap water, and the final rinse with LFN and distilled water. I'm in a very dry climate, so I can start scanning about two hours after hanging the film. I have very little issue with dust, which is also nice.

Hopefully, I'll never move :)
 
Jaans said:
There is also a lot of conjecture as to what temperature a film will reticulate. It will vary of course on the film and how robust it is. Also, the difference in temperatures between cycles.
Click to expand...

Modern films are VERY hard to reticulate. Try it. Reticulation resistance was one of the reasons for the last reformulation of Tri-X.

As for the wash sequence, I use Ilford 5-10-20 in strained tap water (Paterson filter, http://www.rogerandfrances.com/subscription/mt paterson water filter.html), followed by another 20 inversions in distilled water followed by 30 seconds in distilled water with wetting agent.Then drying in a drying cabinet without heat (forced air only). Heat seems (for no reason I can confidently put forward) to encourage drying marks.

Hard water washes better/faster than distilled water, but water drops may leave drying marks, hence the final wash-and-a-half in distilled water.

Cheers,

R.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom