Weird mods, repaints, and customizations

Ken Ford said:
Nice! Who did the paint, Yaron?
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Thanks - unfortunately, I don't know - I bought the body on Ebay a couple of years back and didn't correspond with the seller beyond leaving feedback.

It's NOT the best re-paint job I've ever seen (not that I'm any kind of expert in this) - but under good light one can see that the paint thickness varies over certain areas of the body. The lizard skin grip material is TOPNOTCH professionally-done however. It is really nice to the touch as well.
 
Bassism... I'll have to get back to you on this one- I ran upstairs to check, and my meter's dead now. could be for several reasons- my battery is pretty flat too. I'll check it out tomorrow, it should work...
 
I just have an M7 with Griptac. And there's griptac coming in the mail for when my M8 gets back from upgrade.
 
Retina IIa, with bullfrog leather accent:
U14445I1233695886.SEQ.0.jpg
 
bob338 said:
the realist has lens and shutter assemblies from kodak signets. the lenses in those signets are super sharp and the shutter goes to 1/300 which is a bit faster than a regular realist. this one is a major pain in the *ss to use though.

bob
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Is that because, although the Signets had super sharp Ektar lenses, the shutters were not so good?

Edit: I have had the shutter on my Signet 35 apart twice now for repairs. They are infamous for jamming.
 
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actually the shutter in the signet is pretty much bullet proof. if i remember correctly, the signet was developed for the military and is robust in every way.

the primary reason for putting signet lenses on a realist is mainly to get the longer focal length of the signet lenses. the realist has 35mm lenses which can look a little distorted in stereo, but you have to be very picky to see it. the signet has 44mm lenses and they are very sharp.

one other reason is that extra shutter speed helps in bright daylight. most stereo cameras have cooke triplets(f3.5) or 4 element tessars(2.8) and they both can vignette significantly at any aperture smaller than f11. vignetting is a BIG deal in stereo, it is much more noticeable than when looking at a print.

so now you have more information than you could ever wanted to know about stereo cameras...

bob
 
ok Bassism- the meter works, you need to make another modification though.
the meter box has a lever thing on the front (lens end) that coupled with the aperture selector. a spring pushes this lever down, and this traps the needle. you need to reverse the spring so that it pushes the lever UP and the needle is free to move.
 
Minolta SKY prototype -- reconstruction

Minolta SKY prototype -- reconstruction

I am very desirous of having something similar:

http://www.youtube.com/user/motosenban#p/u/21/C-uEns92hRM
In March 2009, Mr. Matosenban had these sites online:

http://www11.plala.or.jp/mikai2113/no5.0709.html
http://www11.plala.or.jp/mikai2113/

(Today, unfortunately, even http://www.archive.org/web/web.php doesn't find the pages.)

I had a dialogue with Mr. Henrik Robeck <http://minolta.rokkor.de> about this "FrankenMinolta" and I agree with him, that

This was an impressive work of art. You can clearly see the origins (the SR-7 body) but it is very cleverly and skillfully made.
I just wonder how well the rangefinder metering works, if he gutted the Yashica (which I do not know anything of) and put it in this camera it could be working, although he got to be extremely skilled.
Clearly a standing ovation from me, that's all I can say.


Does anybody know a "tinkerer" -- ideally in European Union -- who could manage this or something similar for me?
 
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Actually, I'm trying to find MP's sharkskin for my M6.

Would anyone know if this is possible? I mean I would go out and buy an MP but...:D
 
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