jano
Evil Bokeh
I'm reading the freestyle pdf on foma 200, trying to figure out what time to do rodinal at 1:100 (I can't figure it out, blasted thing -- digital truth has TWO different times for 1:50, so I can't get this right, grrrr), and I come across the instructions for developing, fixing, and washing. Here's what it says for washing:
Say what? I thought we're supposed to keep the temps same throughout the process? Does it help wash if you go cold then hot like this?
Say what? I thought we're supposed to keep the temps same throughout the process? Does it help wash if you go cold then hot like this?
Bryce
Well-known
Jano-
B+W film developing is largely the same regardless of make/ model except for developing times. Washing is usually done at the same temperature as the rest of the process, give or take a couple of degrees. Without a wash aid, 15 to 30 minutes should be fine, or considerably less with a wash agent.
Developing times are often different depending on source, and you'll find your optimum developing time will vary depending on subject contrast and the rest of your workflow. My times are usually shorter than most published sources since I use a condenser enlarger and paper that seems to have a high contrast. A good start may be to find as many developing time recommendations and average them.
I haven't used Foma 200, so I can't comment specifically to this film.
B+W film developing is largely the same regardless of make/ model except for developing times. Washing is usually done at the same temperature as the rest of the process, give or take a couple of degrees. Without a wash aid, 15 to 30 minutes should be fine, or considerably less with a wash agent.
Developing times are often different depending on source, and you'll find your optimum developing time will vary depending on subject contrast and the rest of your workflow. My times are usually shorter than most published sources since I use a condenser enlarger and paper that seems to have a high contrast. A good start may be to find as many developing time recommendations and average them.
I haven't used Foma 200, so I can't comment specifically to this film.
jano
Evil Bokeh
Thanks for your time, perhaps my comment wasn't clear. The directions recommend first 15 minutes below 15C, and the last above 15C. I haven't seen something like that before, as I've been with the understanding it should all be at a constant temp.
Bryce
Well-known
I think it's a bad translation. I suspect the instructions recommend 15 minutes if washing happens above 15C or 30 minutes if below.
Either way, it's standard B+W processing. The instructions on your washing aid bottle should be followed (I recommend a wash aid; saves water and time) or 15 to 30 minutes at 68F or 20C.
Either way, it's standard B+W processing. The instructions on your washing aid bottle should be followed (I recommend a wash aid; saves water and time) or 15 to 30 minutes at 68F or 20C.
ddutchison
Well-known
I think Bryce's interpretation is correct. You definitely want to keep the temperature of all your chemicals and wash within a degree of each other.
Ilford published a now famous film washing procedure. Fill tank with water, invert 5 times, drain. Refill and invert 10 times, then one last go with 20 inversions and the film is fully washed.
The important part is that you have to use a non-hardening fixer (Most print fixers are, as are many film fixers these days - check the manufactures website to find out for sure. Most print fixers give dilutions and times for film as well and can be used for either)
Ilford published a now famous film washing procedure. Fill tank with water, invert 5 times, drain. Refill and invert 10 times, then one last go with 20 inversions and the film is fully washed.
The important part is that you have to use a non-hardening fixer (Most print fixers are, as are many film fixers these days - check the manufactures website to find out for sure. Most print fixers give dilutions and times for film as well and can be used for either)
kaiyen
local man of mystery
Actually, you can still use the Ilford method with a hardening fixer if you use wash aid. The wash aid is not necessary for fixers without actualy hypo in it.
The specific instructions you found are likely just a bad translation. However, keep in mind that the only solution you _need_ to get right re: temperature is the developer. As long as the others are close, you're okay. It's actually quite hard to get reticulation with today's emulsions.
Having said that, someone will of course chime in saying they got reticulation when they increased the temperature of their stop wash by simply blowing air over the surface of the water, raising it somewhere in the neighborhood of practically not at all but technically more than 0.
allan
The specific instructions you found are likely just a bad translation. However, keep in mind that the only solution you _need_ to get right re: temperature is the developer. As long as the others are close, you're okay. It's actually quite hard to get reticulation with today's emulsions.
Having said that, someone will of course chime in saying they got reticulation when they increased the temperature of their stop wash by simply blowing air over the surface of the water, raising it somewhere in the neighborhood of practically not at all but technically more than 0.
allan
jano
Evil Bokeh
Thanks. I'll see if I can find the original PDF in czech, it does sound like a translation error. I can read slovak but will try czech 