Scheelings
Well-known
I'm about to order a load of film from B&H and I thought I'd make the most of it buy buying all those other too hard to get things.
I shoot in both B&W (develop and scan myself) and colour.
At the moment I have only the 80mm lens - but I have no filters.
I was thinking to pick up a UV filter, yellow-green, red and maybe a graduated filter?
What other things have other people found useful / essential?
I shoot in both B&W (develop and scan myself) and colour.
At the moment I have only the 80mm lens - but I have no filters.
I was thinking to pick up a UV filter, yellow-green, red and maybe a graduated filter?
What other things have other people found useful / essential?
Bobfrance
Over Exposed
I bought a -1 diopter for mine which has been very useful for me, but you may not need one.
If you plan on buying other lenses, it's worth considering that the 43, 50 & 150mm lenses all take 67mm filters, which is larger than the 80mm filter size (not sure about the 65mm).
I'd say buy another lens as soon as you can. It's a fabulous system camera.
Bob
If you plan on buying other lenses, it's worth considering that the 43, 50 & 150mm lenses all take 67mm filters, which is larger than the 80mm filter size (not sure about the 65mm).
I'd say buy another lens as soon as you can. It's a fabulous system camera.
Bob
sevo
Fokutorendaburando
Graduated filters aren't really that useful on a rangefinder - it is hard to place the edge at the right spot. Indeed, screw in graduated filters force you into excessively formalized subjects (essentially nothing but "sunset on a flat horizon" in a 50/50 composition) even on a SLR, or you'll have a misplaced edge right at the centre of your images (where it'll be very obvious).
Film age pre-HDR landscape photographers that placed the edge wherever needed and with adjustable steepness did so by using a large sheet filter at the front of a bellows compendium. If you are into stuff like that, you would be better off with a RZ67 - the forte of the 7 is fast handheld work, not heavy tripods and grid screen composition.
UV filters do come in useful if you intend to shoot in a high-UV environment, like mountains, seaside or arid zones. Yellow-green is a recommendable standard filter for just about every black and white subject.
Red is already quite special. I admit to being a heavy red filter user, but I cannot really recommend it as a general purpose piece of equipment - or indeed a filter to carry if you only have room for two or three. It is excellent to bring out clouds and darken foliage, but it will create hard-to-manage shadow contrasts and will give every living subject a corpse-like pallor unless you have them use special (green) make-up. Deep yellow or orange will do almost the same to clouds without affecting skin quite as negatively.
Film age pre-HDR landscape photographers that placed the edge wherever needed and with adjustable steepness did so by using a large sheet filter at the front of a bellows compendium. If you are into stuff like that, you would be better off with a RZ67 - the forte of the 7 is fast handheld work, not heavy tripods and grid screen composition.
UV filters do come in useful if you intend to shoot in a high-UV environment, like mountains, seaside or arid zones. Yellow-green is a recommendable standard filter for just about every black and white subject.
Red is already quite special. I admit to being a heavy red filter user, but I cannot really recommend it as a general purpose piece of equipment - or indeed a filter to carry if you only have room for two or three. It is excellent to bring out clouds and darken foliage, but it will create hard-to-manage shadow contrasts and will give every living subject a corpse-like pallor unless you have them use special (green) make-up. Deep yellow or orange will do almost the same to clouds without affecting skin quite as negatively.
Jamie123
Veteran
Since the Mamiya 7 doesn't have an interchangeable back you might want to consider an ND filter for those times when you have an ISO400 film loaded but want to shoot in broad sunlight wide open.
Bob Michaels
nobody special
Buy at 58 to 55 step down ring because 55mm filters are plentiful. Not so for the 58MM that fits the lens. No problems with vignetting.
Silvrwhls
Member
I've had the mamiya 7 for about 5 months now and I have had no trouble with grad filters. I use a 2stop soft edge grad. I don't use a hard edge otherwise I might be having some trouble with them. Get a 2stop soft edge for landscape work and you'll be fine. Also, don't skimp on the grad ND either. Get a tiffin, Singh ray, or a Schneider. A filter that is a true grad ND and not something cheap like a cokin. You will experience a nasty color shift with the cheapos. Looks terrible on your final image. They are not truly neutral. I've experienced it. I can't speak for Lee grad nd filters... Never owned one or have known anybody who has used one.
Also, for landscape work get a regular ND filter. With a low ISO you can create some great long exposure sky and water effects. I would even search for a 8 or 10 stop filter.
Happy shopping!!!
Also, for landscape work get a regular ND filter. With a low ISO you can create some great long exposure sky and water effects. I would even search for a 8 or 10 stop filter.
Happy shopping!!!
Scheelings
Well-known
Wow, I'm glad I posted about this. Thanks for all your responses so far - I'm going to swap out the red filter for an orange one.
Since I plan to buy the 43mm lens at some point, I'm going to go for 67mm filters and buy a step up ring to compensate.
I'll list them down here based on MFR number from B&H's website:
#65-063818 for the graduated filter - I have no idea if its soft edge or not - can someone please check and confirm?
Mfr #XD67UV - Hoya UV filter
#A67GRX0 - Hoya Yellow-Green filter
# A6702 - Hoya 67mm Orange G (no idea if this is the right one to get - there are quite a few options - some of them more expensive)
Mfr #58-67 - General Brand step up ring
segedi
RFicianado
Live chat with BH to get your questions answered, it's fast and from the source. And keep in mind, I don't think the 7 meters TTL so you will need to manually compensate for additional exposure or use the exp compensation if just a couple of stops max.
Bob Michaels
nobody special
You might want to check and see how much of the viewfinder gets blocked by using a step up ring and 67mm filter on the 80mm lens.
Also remember the step up ring will render the lens hood unusable.
Personally, the only filters I used with my Mamiya 7 were a 25A red for shooting infrared back when I could still get 120 HIE and an 81A (slight warming) for when I did a six month project shooting Fuji Astia at the beach.
Scheelings
Well-known
john_s
Well-known
When using filters don't forget that the meter is not TTL.
Scheelings
Well-known
Yeh, I know about that. Hopefully the existing -2EV should be enough with my filters.
Scheelings
Well-known
So both the orange and yellow-green filters have a filter factor of 2.5 (i.e. 1.5 stops). My Graduated ND filter is 2 stops at the darkest area (although Ken Rockwell states that you should use 1 stop compensation).
If I stack these filters, I believe that 3.5 stops is beyond what the camera can normally handle through Exposure Compensation.
What is the normal procedure?
I suppose since I would always use the colour-filter with a given film - that I could rate the speed of the film as lower (e.g. for 100 speed film - rate it at 50 and 400 speed at 200 etc)
Then set the EV to +0.5
That should handle the yellow-green filter
Then when I use the graduated ND filter - just set the EV to +1.5
If I stack these filters, I believe that 3.5 stops is beyond what the camera can normally handle through Exposure Compensation.
What is the normal procedure?
I suppose since I would always use the colour-filter with a given film - that I could rate the speed of the film as lower (e.g. for 100 speed film - rate it at 50 and 400 speed at 200 etc)
Then set the EV to +0.5
That should handle the yellow-green filter
Then when I use the graduated ND filter - just set the EV to +1.5
sevo
Fokutorendaburando
That is rather low, unless you use filters with rather non-standard densities (light balancing orange filters can be as weak as that, but I am not aware of a half-density yellow-green on the market). Both Kodak and B+W list a filter factor of 4 for yellow-green Wratten No. 11, while orange would be 3 (No. 15) or 4 (No. 16). Besides, the filter factor (the exposure time multiplier) 2.5 would equal 1.25 stops, while 3 is 1.5 and 4 is 2 stops.
Paul Jenkin
Well-known
If you use a tripod and have more than one lens, get hold of the widget that sits between the camera and the tripod head. Otherwise, you will have to remove the camera from the tripod to access the dark curtain slide in order to release the lens and fit a new one - every time you want to change lens. I have the 43mm, 65mm and 150mm lenses and this gadget has saved me a load of hassle.
Roger Hicks
Veteran
The problem here is that what I find useful, you may find useless, and vice versa. I have a very simple rule: I buy what I need, when I need it, i.e. when I realize I am missing shots because I don't have something.
Over the years, I've bought a LOT off stuff I've never used, or used only to try it out, because of others' recommendations.
Cheers,
R.
Silvrwhls
Member
I'm just now getting back to the forum since the last time I commented on this thread. If I typed your B&H part number in correctly... You got the hard edge screw in type of grad ND. If that works for you that's great.
The one I was describing can be seen on my avatar. It's a larger rectangular filter that fits in a holder that can be rotated and adjusted upwards or downwards in the holder for exact placement if your horizon line is not directly placed halfway in your viewfinder. With the screw on type you are stuck with the transition from light to dark right in the center of your viewfinder without being able to adjust it so you will have to compose your shot with the horizon line right in the middle of your viewfinder. It doesn't allow for adjustments upwards or downwards. So if your sky is only in the top 1/3 of your frame when composing your shot, you're screwed... especially since this particular filter you gave the part number for is a hard edge grad ND. The line will be obvious. If you got a soft edge screw in type for this 1/3 scenario, it won't be perfect but it won't be AS obvious. But again, the soft edge rectangular filter with holder will give best results and is more forgiving if you don't get your placement exactly right. So far, it's worked perfect for me and I can place it where ever I want .... Top 1/3, 1/2 way, or 2/3 from the top.
1more advantage to having a filter system that requires the use of a "holder" is that you can stack your filters without worrying about vignetting in your corners from having too many filters stacked on top of one another on a wide angle lens.
But if you got the filter you gave the part number for, and it fits your shooting style, that's all that matters. Some people prefer the circular over the rectangular and others vise versa. It's what ever works for you.
The one I was describing can be seen on my avatar. It's a larger rectangular filter that fits in a holder that can be rotated and adjusted upwards or downwards in the holder for exact placement if your horizon line is not directly placed halfway in your viewfinder. With the screw on type you are stuck with the transition from light to dark right in the center of your viewfinder without being able to adjust it so you will have to compose your shot with the horizon line right in the middle of your viewfinder. It doesn't allow for adjustments upwards or downwards. So if your sky is only in the top 1/3 of your frame when composing your shot, you're screwed... especially since this particular filter you gave the part number for is a hard edge grad ND. The line will be obvious. If you got a soft edge screw in type for this 1/3 scenario, it won't be perfect but it won't be AS obvious. But again, the soft edge rectangular filter with holder will give best results and is more forgiving if you don't get your placement exactly right. So far, it's worked perfect for me and I can place it where ever I want .... Top 1/3, 1/2 way, or 2/3 from the top.
1more advantage to having a filter system that requires the use of a "holder" is that you can stack your filters without worrying about vignetting in your corners from having too many filters stacked on top of one another on a wide angle lens.
But if you got the filter you gave the part number for, and it fits your shooting style, that's all that matters. Some people prefer the circular over the rectangular and others vise versa. It's what ever works for you.
EdSawyer
Established
polarizer
polarizer
I'd recommend the Mamiya polarizer that is specially made for this camera. It's a nice piece of gear, well designed, and probably the item I use the most as far as accessories.
polarizer
I'd recommend the Mamiya polarizer that is specially made for this camera. It's a nice piece of gear, well designed, and probably the item I use the most as far as accessories.
corposant
Member
I'm just now getting back to the forum since the last time I commented on this thread. If I typed your B&H part number in correctly... You got the hard edge screw in type of grad ND. If that works for you that's great.
The one I was describing can be seen on my avatar. It's a larger rectangular filter that fits in a holder that can be rotated and adjusted upwards or downwards in the holder for exact placement if your horizon line is not directly placed halfway in your viewfinder. With the screw on type you are stuck with the transition from light to dark right in the center of your viewfinder without being able to adjust it so you will have to compose your shot with the horizon line right in the middle of your viewfinder. It doesn't allow for adjustments upwards or downwards. So if your sky is only in the top 1/3 of your frame when composing your shot, you're screwed... especially since this particular filter you gave the part number for is a hard edge grad ND. The line will be obvious. If you got a soft edge screw in type for this 1/3 scenario, it won't be perfect but it won't be AS obvious. But again, the soft edge rectangular filter with holder will give best results and is more forgiving if you don't get your placement exactly right. So far, it's worked perfect for me and I can place it where ever I want .... Top 1/3, 1/2 way, or 2/3 from the top.
1more advantage to having a filter system that requires the use of a "holder" is that you can stack your filters without worrying about vignetting in your corners from having too many filters stacked on top of one another on a wide angle lens.
But if you got the filter you gave the part number for, and it fits your shooting style, that's all that matters. Some people prefer the circular over the rectangular and others vise versa. It's what ever works for you.
Perhaps you need something like... this: http://www.rangefinderforum.com/pho...35421/title/lee-deluxe-rf-75-filter-kit/cat/6
StoneNYC
Infrequent Visitor
I actually find it kind of a pain, the screw that's supposed to hold it still doesn't work and it always unscrews on me, it's easier on the 67mm lenses but the 58's with the "step up insert" thing make it difficult.
It's sort of the only option so I certainly use it, I wish the circ pol was able to be taken out, and you could insert grad density filters, it does have a thread but you can't take out the pol filter so it means adding like 4 stops of adjustment if you add filters. Lol
~Stone~ The Noteworthy Ones - Mamiya: 7 II, RZ67 Pro II / Canon: 1V, AE-1 / Kodak: No 1 Pocket Autographic, No 1A Pocket Autographic. Sent from my iPhone using Forum Runner