Tijmendal
Young photog
Hi,
I found a Focomat IIc on the sidewalk some time ago, and I finally got around to installing it in the darkroom. I made a first print, and this is how it turned out. I've had similar results before, but that was because the lens was dirty. However, that doesn't seem to be the case here. Does anyone know what could cause this?
I found a Focomat IIc on the sidewalk some time ago, and I finally got around to installing it in the darkroom. I made a first print, and this is how it turned out. I've had similar results before, but that was because the lens was dirty. However, that doesn't seem to be the case here. Does anyone know what could cause this?

Larry H-L
Well-known
Looks like a chemical problem rather than an enlarger issue.
Erik van Straten
Veteran
Looks like it was too short in the developer or that the developer was contaminated by the fixer. If the developer is correctly prepared, the picture has to stay in it for at least three minutes. The temperature of the developer should be around 20 degrees C. Then the print must be rinsed in clean water and finally it must be fixed.
Remember that even one small drop of fixer can ruin your developer.
Start by making small prints, 13x18cm. If you master that format, you can make bigger prints. Good enlarging paper is very expensive.
Use a reliable exposure clock.
Erik.
Remember that even one small drop of fixer can ruin your developer.
Start by making small prints, 13x18cm. If you master that format, you can make bigger prints. Good enlarging paper is very expensive.
Use a reliable exposure clock.
Erik.
Erik van Straten
Veteran
With a Focomat IIc the tones can be like this:
Leica M3, Summicron 50mm f/2 rigid, Tmax400, printed on Adox MCC 110.
Erik.
Leica M3, Summicron 50mm f/2 rigid, Tmax400, printed on Adox MCC 110.
Erik.

Chriscrawfordphoto
Real Men Shoot Film.
Looks like it was too short in the developer or that the developer was contaminated by the fixer. If the developer is correctly prepared, the picture has to stay in it for at least three minutes. The temperature of the developer should be around 20 degrees C. Then the print must be rinsed in clean water and finally it must be fixed.
Remember that even one small drop of fixer can ruin your developer.
Start by making small prints, 13x18cm. If you master that format, you can make bigger prints. Good enlarging paper is very expensive.
Use a reliable exposure clock.
Erik.
Erik is right. It is developer that is weak. Could be the chemicals are old and outdated, could be diluted too much, or could be contaminated.
To avoid contamination, I recommend keeping a tray that is used ONLY for developer. Also, keep a dedicated mixing graduate only for developers. Don't use the same tongs to remove prints from the developer, stop bath, and fixer. Tongs can contaminate developers. Keep one used only for developer and another used for stop and fix.
Make sure to fully develop the print. Do not pull it out early to keep it from getting too dark. If the print is too dark with full developing, make a new print using a shorter exposure time.
BillBingham2
Registered User
It's been a LONG time since I've been in a darkroom, but gotta agree it's the developer. I was thinking it was too strong rather than too weak.
How long did you have it in the developer before you pulled it?
Are all your prints like this?
There are some fern-like white things that lead me to think your condenser lenses could use a cleaning. Make sure that they go back in the same order and direction they come out it. Use your smartphone to capture that information lens by lens (any digital camera will do).
B2 (;->
How long did you have it in the developer before you pulled it?
Are all your prints like this?
There are some fern-like white things that lead me to think your condenser lenses could use a cleaning. Make sure that they go back in the same order and direction they come out it. Use your smartphone to capture that information lens by lens (any digital camera will do).
B2 (;->
Steve M.
Veteran
It's not every day that you see a post that starts out "I found a Focomat IIc on the sidewalk some time ago....".
I think your print is either under developed or under fixed. Are you agitating the paper in the trays? The paper could be fogged too.
When you have problems like this, and it's been a while since you've made any prints, the best thing to do is go through the ck list. Do a safelight test, a clip test for the developer, get fresh fixer, and if necessary fresh paper. Like Bill said, make sure everything is clean and streak/dust free inside the enlarger too.
I think your print is either under developed or under fixed. Are you agitating the paper in the trays? The paper could be fogged too.
When you have problems like this, and it's been a while since you've made any prints, the best thing to do is go through the ck list. Do a safelight test, a clip test for the developer, get fresh fixer, and if necessary fresh paper. Like Bill said, make sure everything is clean and streak/dust free inside the enlarger too.
retinax
Well-known
Did you move the print around in the developer or rock the tray? And develop until no change is visible and then a little more?
Tijmendal
Young photog
Thanks everyone. I'll check the developer. I think I used the same developer with the old enlarger in the darkroom, so I'm inclined to believe that's not the issue, but I'll have to make sure.
Yeah. I got extremely lucky!
Alright, I'll check that too!
It's not every day that you see a post that starts out "I found a Focomat IIc on the sidewalk some time ago....".
Yeah. I got extremely lucky!
There are some fern-like white things that lead me to think your condenser lenses could use a cleaning. Make sure that they go back in the same order and direction they come out it. Use your smartphone to capture that information lens by lens (any digital camera will do).
B2 (;->
Alright, I'll check that too!
Erik van Straten
Veteran
I think I used the same developer with the old enlarger in the darkroom, so I'm inclined to believe that's not the issue, but I'll have to make sure.
You'll absolutely need fresh developer, for instance Eukobrom, available in small bottles at Foto Fransen on the Beukenplein.
Erik.
Ko.Fe.
Lenses 35/21 Gears 46/20
If it is enlarger, you should be able to see it with focused negative removed.
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