naren
Established
Shot some Tri-x 400 in full sun that I want to pull 2 stops. Trying to decide what developer to use. Was going to use Pyro for the first time.. got it especially for this but then the instructions say it is one of the greatest contrast producing developers... not what I need here. So these are the devs I have to choose from.
1. d-76
2. pyro W2d2 or Wxxx
3. edwal FG-7 (may be too old)
Please let me know what you guys think... thanks!
1. d-76
2. pyro W2d2 or Wxxx
3. edwal FG-7 (may be too old)
Please let me know what you guys think... thanks!
splash_fr
Member
For pushing/pulling TX400 I had most succes with HDC new from Spuersinn. Works fine to push/pull three stops. It is a two component nonstaining compensating developer.
I don't know where you live and if it's available there. In germany I order it directly from their online shop.
Rgds,
Gerd.
I don't know where you live and if it's available there. In germany I order it directly from their online shop.
Rgds,
Gerd.
naren
Established
thanks, never heard of it but I will check it out.
naren
Established
Unfortunately it seems to be unavailable here in the US.
Stuart John
Well-known
D 76 1:1 reduce development by around 30 maybe 40 %. Should be a reasonable starting point I would guess.
Steve M.
Veteran
Some time ago I shot Tri-X at 100 and just developed it at box speed times in D76. I posted my results over at Apug. It came out fine. Hey, it's Tri-X! This was a test roll I was shooting, w/ one exposure at 200, then 100. Actually I like the shots that were at 100 quite a lot, so I often shoot this film at that speed when I want a different look. My preference is to use D76 straight, not diluted. 68 degrees for 7 minutes, gentle inversions for first 30 seconds, two every 30 seconds thereafter, none the last minute. Your water/thermometer may vary but this will get you in the ballpark. Most people shoot this film at 200 anyway, so you would actually only be pulling it one stop. You could try it at 6 or 6 1/2 minutes too.
D76 is a funny developer. It's PH really changes if it's 3 weeks old or more, and I was having trouble getting consistent results unless I used it fresh. Now I shoot TD-16 from Photographers Formulary, which is a much more stable version. Lasts up to 6 months at stock solution if you don't let it get too hot in the house. Negs developed in it look almost exactly like D76.
D76 is a funny developer. It's PH really changes if it's 3 weeks old or more, and I was having trouble getting consistent results unless I used it fresh. Now I shoot TD-16 from Photographers Formulary, which is a much more stable version. Lasts up to 6 months at stock solution if you don't let it get too hot in the house. Negs developed in it look almost exactly like D76.
Mablo
Well-known
I shoot Tri-x @ EI100 a lot. It's a good way to get really bright white and shiny snowscapes. I would use Tri-x @ EI100 in bright daylight scenes anywhere. So far I've used Xtol 1+1 for 7:30 minutes or D-76 1+1 for 6:30 minutes. Some examples (with Xtol) below:
Uncle Fester
Well-known
I wouldn't trust FG7 since it has not been made for a few years. The last time I used it, it had shelf life problems due to a reformulation. It was a great developer prior to that.
I have found that I had all kinds of contrast control available with PMK pyro when printing on VC papers. Tri-X in PMK has a very yellow stain in the highlights, which acts like a lower contrast filter with VC papers. I don't know how it would work with W2D2 since I've never used that developer and don't know what the stain color looks like.
In your situation, I would probably shoot a test roll of TX under the same lighting conditions as the roll you now have, and develop it in something like D76 diluted 1+2 with a slight reduction (maybe 10% to 15%) from the normal time for D76 diluted 1+1.
naren
Established
Thank you all. Thus far in my film developing I have used Edwal fg-7 and d76. I have never used any pre-soak bath before development. In fact, it's something I just learned of with the Formulary pyro instructions. Then I spoke with an experienced darkroom person who said she always uses a pre-soak, and for the first time in a communal darkroom with instructions I saw the pre-soak listed as step one.
I have never noticed any uneven development in my negs, but perhaps it just went unnoticed. Curious about other take on this...
I have never noticed any uneven development in my negs, but perhaps it just went unnoticed. Curious about other take on this...
