What do you rate TMAX3200P at ?

[venchka]

Update.
A friend gave me a brick + 2 rolls of Tmax p3200. Naturally the +2 rolls were put to a test to make sure the film really owrked. My friend had gotten the film from a friend who got the film...in other words, we didn't know the history of the film.
So. I load a roll. Set the meter to 3200. Fire away. Second roll. Same thing.
I am impatient to develop the film. I am out of Xtol. Out comes the Rodinal. Not so good.
Long story short: Tmax p3200 likes Xtol. Before I develop anymore of this film I will mix up Xtol.
Oh, the test rolls are fine as far as determining that the film is good.
For the keeper rolls: ASA 1000. Xtol. 1:3. Jobo tank. Continuous agitation. Scan. Print. My normal routine.

 

[ChrisP]

If you hate purple...

If you hate purple...

You can just send me the film (PM and I'll give you my address). I'll cover shipping. In exchange I will scan all the images I get off it, convert to B&W in lightroom to ensure there is no color to them what so ever and send you those! Than you will have mediocre images shot on tmax 3200, probably exposed somewhere between 4000 and 6400 (my MX only meters to 3200 so when I need a shot I just guess and see what comes out) and you will have no worry at all about colored negatives!

Also if you decide to keep them than, as good as everyone's advice is, since you have 10 rolls I'd just burn the first 3 shooting 1 at 1600, 1 at 3200 and maybe 1 at 6400 to see how you like them!

Hi,

Just a quick question, what do you rate the TMAX3200P film ? I got about 12 boxes of it, I hate tmax for it purple residue no matter what i try... But this i got for free and i would really like to try a fast film.
So give me your votes and if you have a minute to spare your developing techniques would be appreciated !

 

[ChrisP]

Have you tried just using your arm?

Have you tried just using your arm?

Now I shouldn't be giving out advice because I'm really not qualified to at all. But I like the way my images turn out so I'm going to contribute anyways.

Rather than taking a light meter with me everyone I usually just meter off the back of my hand when I'm having trouble finding something medium grey to meter off of. Turns out I'm a middle grey (thought I was person colored, but you learn something new everyday). Now obviously this doesn't work well all the time, you have to be in a similar light as your subject, but thats the same as with ambient light readings.

More than with any other film, Tmax 3200 has left me frustrated when trying to get rich tonality in scarcely lit situations - at any EI I've tried.

Most of my Tmax 3200 shots feature speckled shadows - no really, truly dark, uniform black tones, and no detail in darker shadows (Freakscene's picture illustrates what I mean). The lack of shadow detail seems to be unavoidable with hi-speed films, but I am still looking for a way to have more control over where I will have detail in my pictures other than in the really bright areas.

Bob Michaels' post got me thinking - what if the way I measure exposure is incorrect? Most of the time, I use my Hexar RF for this film, and I use it in AE mode.

So the question is not what IE, but which part of my image to measure, and that gets tricky considering my camera has a meter with a center-weighted measuring style. I'm thinking of preparing a cue card with diagrams of my VF framelines and superimposed meter sensitivity graphs as an orientation, so I can really tell what (and where) my meter will be measuring.

Or should I abandon reflected light metering altogether with this film, get an external meter and measure incident light?

 

[EcoLeica]

I had a go the other day and rated it at 1600, then developed in Rodinal. I love this film!

 

[WalterM]

don't have a flickr to link from.. i wonder if i can link from the gallery.

gaze upon my glorious visage.

p3200 @1600
FA-1027 1:9 @ 68F for 9 minutes.

 

[Chuck Albertson]

1600 or 3200, developed in TMax just like it says on the bottle. If you don't like the purple tint on your negatives, you're probably not fixing long enough. Use rapid fixer (TF-4/TF-5 particularly good), and Perma Wash should remove the last vestiges of the tint.