What fixer to use?

[Tijmendal]

Hi,

I was wondering what fixer everyone uses and recommends. I've seen a lot of talk on the web about TF-4 and that apparently it's the absolute best. Too bad it's not sold in Europe.
Anything in particular I need to check out? I've been using the powder fixer by Kodak till now; is it worth it checking other stuff out.
I plan on using Acufine in the near future and apparently you can only use non-acidic fixers with it. Is the Kodak fixer acidic (I wouldn't even know 😱 )

Thanks!

 

[Chriscrawfordphoto]

You want a "Rapid Fixer". These are based on Ammonium Thiosulfae, unlike old fashioned fixers like the powder kodak fixer which is based on Sodium Thiosulfate.

Rapid fixers are not only faster working, they work better on modern films that plain fixers.

Kodak Rapid Fixer
Ilford Rapid Fixer
and TF-4 are all good rapid fixers; anny of them work fine unless you're using a Pyo based developer, in which case TF-4 is better (most fixers are acidic, while acid reduces image stain in photod developed in Pyro developers

 

[joeswe]

Unless explicitly described as "neutral" or "non-acidic fixer", all standard fixers nowadays are acidic fixers. I cannot find any reference in the Acufine data sheet that says you should not use acidic fixing bath. As Chris has already stated, a rapid (acidic) fixing bath is standard for fixing film, especially if you plan to work with Tmax or Delta films.
Don't worry about the brand, they are all fine (Ilford, Kodak, Amaloco, Adox, Rollei etc), it is much more important to process correctly. Fixing a film isn't rocket science, but I still recommend to read up a bit about film fixing (see Ilford info sheet linke below) and stick to proper procedures right from the start.
Don't fix too short, don't overuse fixer, rinse efficiently and if archival longevity of the developed film is a concern, consider setting up a two bath fixing procedure. And last but not least, do not flush the used fixing bath down the drain, but dispose off properly (e.g. take it to the local special waste collection point in your community), so the toxic silver contents can be recycled.
http://www.ilfordphoto.com/Webfiles/2011427111531653.pdf

 

[Tijmendal]

Thanks for the info guys.
Any reason why I want a (non-)hardening fixer? What are the (dis)advantages to this?

 

[Benjamin Marks]

A hardening fixer makes your film emulsion slightly more resistant to scratching. When used for papers it can also require a longer wash time, which I consider a disadvantage. For film, I wouldn't get too worked up about whether a fixer is hardening or non-hardening. You will have to be careful with your negatives in any event. The exception to this is if you live in a tropical climate, in which case I think a hardener is a good idea, but in the Netherlands you have got nothing to worry about. I generally don't add hardener to mine.

Ben Marks

 

[rkm]

Side question. How many times can you use fixer before you need to use fresh fixer?

 

[Terry Christian]

rohankent: The instructions supplied with the fixer should tell you the capacity. There are basically two ways to test fixer for yourself:

1. The first time you use the fixer, drop a piece of leader into a little bit of the fixer. Swish it around a little and see how long it takes for the leader to become clear. You can re-use the fixer until this time doubles.
2. Most photographic suppliers carry a fixer test solution that comes in a tiny dropper bottle. Put a couple of drops into your fixer. If the drops form a milky white precipitate, then it's time to change your fixer.

"Normal" (i.e., thiosulfate, non-TF-4/TF-5) fixers have a sharp, acrid smell when fresh. When nearing exhaustion, they get milder, and/or start smelling like sulfur.

 

[zsas]

Fwiw, I love the 5L of Ilford Hypam

 

[zsas]

Re fixer longevity I use a two bath fixer...

Two bath fixing
An extremely efficient method of fixing film or paper is to use the two bath fixing technique. Make up two separate fixing baths of the same solution volume. Fix the film or paper in the first bath for half the recommended fixing time and then transfer them to the second bath for the remainder of the time. Continue to work this way until the capacity of the first bath is reached, then discarded it and replace it with the second fixer bath. Prepare and use a completely fresh second bath. Repeat this process as required with the result that the film or paper is always thoroughly fixed by the relatively fresh fixer in the second bath.

Per Ilford:
http://www.ilfordphoto.com/Webfiles/2011427111531653.pdf

 

[drew.saunders]

Since Foma is a European company, one would assume that their products are available at reasonable prices over there:
http://www.freestylephoto.biz/70101...ixer-500-ml-to-make-up-to-3-Liters?cat_id=303

Ilford's rapid fixer is fine, but at least at Freestyle it's more expensive than the Foma, so presumably that's the case in Europe too.

I'm fond of the Legacy Pro EcoPro fixer, but it may not be available in Europe:
http://www.freestylephoto.biz/12312...Fixer-1-Quart-Makes-1.25-2-Gallons?cat_id=303

 

[zsas]

The only time I used a hardening fixer was with Efke and ADOX CHS film, which specifically mentioned using a hardening fix. Asside from that, I don't believe there are any films made that need it (but I could be wrong). The main bw stocks (Ilford, Kodak, Fuji) don't need it

 

[kokoshawnuff]

I like Tetenal Odorless fixer. Works well for me.