shawn
Veteran
I scan with my S1R and take multiple shots then pano merge them in Lightroom.
On the 624 they end up around 233 megapixels without using the high resolution mode of the S1R. My computer would probably burst into flames pano merging high resolution versions. Things get really nuts when I pano merge (2) 6x24 frames). Only have done that a few times.
sojournerphoto
Veteran
sojournerphoto
Veteran
I scan with my S1R and take multiple shots then pano merge them in Lightroom.
On the 624 they end up around 233 megapixels without using the high resolution mode of the S1R. My computer would probably burst into flames pano merging high resolution versions. Things get really nuts when I pano merge (2) 6x24 frames). Only have done that a few times.
I quite like using two high res shots to capture 617 frames. Seems to work well.
The next roll, though, is a quick 35mm test roll of Adox HR-50 shot in the MO that follows me home like an unloved 🐕
shawn
Veteran
Sure, it is a Voron 2.4. That is an open source design that has a lot of interesting features.
Building it is a fun combination of mechanical, electrical and also software to set everything up and get it working. From there you can add/tweak it to really dial in print quality and to make it do exactly what you want.
Starts life as a bunch of boxes of parts....
You build pretty much everything; frame, motor drives, pulleys, gantry, tool head, extruder, and so on
Then comes all the wiring which runs all over the place and through the cable chains to the print head and sensors.
Eventually you end up with this:
The physical building/wiring was probably about 50 hours of work, maybe a little more. Configuring all the different pieces of software, tuning/dialing it all in and getting it to print well consistently was at least the same amount of time if not more. Some of that was my using Klipper for this first time with this printer. Had to get up to speed with the macros and such which are enormously flexible.
And then you keep tweaking to change Z stop hardware, add things like a brush to wipe the nozzle before a print, add hardware to measure the overall resonances of the printer to reduce print ringing, add software to track spool usage and increasing the flow through the hot end as the ability to melt the filament quick enough became a limiting factor very quickly.
Well worth it though. Prints much faster than my previous printers and has considerably better print quality too. What use to be a 12-15 hour print is like 3 hours now.
Alpsman
Well-known
I scan with my S1R and take multiple shots then pano merge them in Lightroom.
On the 624 they end up around 233 megapixels without using the high resolution mode of the S1R. My computer would probably burst into flames pano merging high resolution versions. Things get really nuts when I pano merge (2) 6x24 frames). Only have done that a few times.
Alpsman
Well-known
@ shawn:
I once worked on an inkjet printer that could print up to 2.5 meters wide and long - depending on how much material was on the roll.
The largest file we sent to the printer was about 2 GB.
Our motto was: Don't be afraid of large files.
I do have a light table and a digital camera, but as long as my scanner works I'll enjoy it.
For panoramas I can recommend the Autopano Giga.
It's now free.
hdrmaps.com
I used it to make panoramas from 8 or 10 scanned 6x6 black and white negatives. Each negative was scanned at 4000 dpi. Work out for yourself what the computer had to calculate ;-= My computer didn't burn, but it did start to sweat
I once worked on an inkjet printer that could print up to 2.5 meters wide and long - depending on how much material was on the roll.
The largest file we sent to the printer was about 2 GB.
Our motto was: Don't be afraid of large files.
I do have a light table and a digital camera, but as long as my scanner works I'll enjoy it.
For panoramas I can recommend the Autopano Giga.
It's now free.
AutoPano Giga is Now Free • HDRMAPS™
AutoPano Giga is a powerful tool that can automatically stitch multiple photos into a seamless panorama. Download your free copy from here.
hdrmaps.com
I used it to make panoramas from 8 or 10 scanned 6x6 black and white negatives. Each negative was scanned at 4000 dpi. Work out for yourself what the computer had to calculate ;-= My computer didn't burn, but it did start to sweat
shawn
Veteran
I bought Autopano Giga years ago as I used it with my multiple camera pano rigs. I love the different projections it offers and it typically does a really nice job of avoid blend errors.@ shawn:
I once worked on an inkjet printer that could print up to 2.5 meters wide and long - depending on how much material was on the roll.
The largest file we sent to the printer was about 2 GB.
Our motto was: Don't be afraid of large files.
I do have a light table and a digital camera, but as long as my scanner works I'll enjoy it.
For panoramas I can recommend the Autopano Giga.
It's now free.
AutoPano Giga is Now Free • HDRMAPS™
AutoPano Giga is a powerful tool that can automatically stitch multiple photos into a seamless panorama. Download your free copy from here.
I used it to make panoramas from 8 or 10 scanned 6x6 black and white negatives. Each negative was scanned at 4000 dpi. Work out for yourself what the computer had to calculate ;-= My computer didn't burn, but it did start to sweat
Mostly, I use Lightroom now though as it does a quicker/better job of exposure blending and will apply lens corrections that can really help avoid artifacts from lens vignetting. I also like that it generates the pano as a DNG.
Those most have been massive panos you made!
Alpsman
Well-known
From the 8 negatives I got a panorama at 72 dpi that was 2.3 x 0.4 meters.
I had the printer, I had the negatives, scanner, software, computer... I had everything. Just no space to hang them up.
Alpsman
Well-known
hometown - or at least a part of it. The rest is behind the hill on the right.
Unfortunately, some bungalows have now been built on the left side and block almost a third of the view.
Unfortunately, some bungalows have now been built on the left side and block almost a third of the view.
jesse1dog
Light Catcher
1955 Jupiter 8,
Chinon MC 55mm f1.7,
Industar 50-2,
Vivitar 75-205mm close focus f3.8 in case,
all for £6.25 + P&P as an Ebay buy.
I'm mad!
The Jupiter 9 has a deformed filter thread but don't most of this date anyhow. Focus is stiff, it looks 'pretty' but still to do a test.
The Chinon 55mm looks fine and focus and aperture rings are butter smooth.
The Industar 50-2 is a Industar, say no more!
The Vivitar is enormous, weighs a 'ton' and certainly not a sensible item to mount on my Lumix GM1. I've tried once and had no joy in getting a reasonable focus. Looks an item destined for the nearest waste skip!
But what a lot of fun I've had, and am still having even if the three 'sensible' lenses can't or don't produce reasonable results.
Now that Chinon might be the lens that makes this a good deal!
Chinon MC 55mm f1.7,
Industar 50-2,
Vivitar 75-205mm close focus f3.8 in case,
all for £6.25 + P&P as an Ebay buy.
I'm mad!
The Jupiter 9 has a deformed filter thread but don't most of this date anyhow. Focus is stiff, it looks 'pretty' but still to do a test.
The Chinon 55mm looks fine and focus and aperture rings are butter smooth.
The Industar 50-2 is a Industar, say no more!
The Vivitar is enormous, weighs a 'ton' and certainly not a sensible item to mount on my Lumix GM1. I've tried once and had no joy in getting a reasonable focus. Looks an item destined for the nearest waste skip!
But what a lot of fun I've had, and am still having even if the three 'sensible' lenses can't or don't produce reasonable results.
Now that Chinon might be the lens that makes this a good deal!
Dogman
Veteran
Voigtlander 90mm ƒ/3.5 APO-Lanthar and adapter to use on Fuji. Sharp and a joy to use due to size.
Voigtlander 15mm ƒ/4.5 II Super Wide Heliar and TTArtisan Leica M to Fuji adapter. Ordered but not yet received.
Voigtlander 15mm ƒ/4.5 II Super Wide Heliar and TTArtisan Leica M to Fuji adapter. Ordered but not yet received.
Sanug
Established
I have bought a big magnetic board from Ikea plus a set of small neodyme magnets from Ebay for displaying my silver gelatine prints in my living room. With the magnets it is very easy to have a periodically changing display.
KoNickon
Nick Merritt
Nikkormat FS with 50/2 Nippon Kogaku (early version with straight aperture ring, i.e. not scalloped). The FS at first I thought was missing the bezel around the frame counter window, but turns out the first versions had no such bezel (mine is in the first 7,500 out of ~ 45,000). Camera and lens were obviously stored in a wet basement, but after some cleaning and exercising seem OK.) Also came with a much newer vintage Rokunar 80-205 f3.8.
JeffS7444
Well-known
Very interesting, and a tidy job of wiring too! But if you don't mind my asking, given the rather hefty price and the amount of labor needed to assemble it, what drew you to that particular model versus popular readymade or semi-kit printers from the likes of Bambu and Prusa - is yours configured for significantly larger max print sizes, or do you see it as being more future-proof, what with the open-source design?
shawn
Veteran
Great question.
The Bambu printers seem like good machines but didn't fit my needs. My older printer had a build plate of 320x310 and I could *just* print Kraken 624s on it. Anything much smaller and it wouldn't fit. Bambu's print beds are 254x254 so that eliminated them.
Most of the Prusa printers are open frame and bed slingers. Part of my wanting to upgrade was to be able to print more advanced materials so open frame was out.
Enclosing a bed slinger is possible but takes up even more room and gives a very large chamber volume that is harder to heat. That makes it more likely to get warping with ABS due to the part moving through different temp air as the bed moves around. I also wanted to get away from bed slingers due to the mass of them (limiting speed) and I don't like the constant movement of the bed heater wiring as I've had problems with that on other printers. That limited me to Core XY machines. Prusa has the XL but it costs more than the Voron.
At the time Creality was just starting to come out with the K1 and K1 Max. The Max looked interesting (wasn't quite available yet and might have been too small) but the very initial reviews on the K1 weren't terribly encouraging. Creality are price point printers so it was possible/likely it would need some hardware upgrades which would take some time for the aftermarket to figure out. I think at this point the K1 series have been hacked to have full access to Klipper which gives more flexibility to tuning them which is good.
Other than that there wasn't much else out there that wasn't considerably more money. There are a few more options now that are interesting. (Qidi) Not a lot of reviews on some of those newer printers and most are closed systems which makes changes more difficult or locks you into a specific slicer or wouldn't integrate with things like Octoprint or Obico.
The Voron 2.4 checked all the boxes for me. The idea that the build plate never moves was cool and avoided concerns around wire fatigue for the bed heater. That also had the nice benefit of keeping its weight located lower in the printer for more stability. The bed is thick and massive and opens up things like bed fans to help heat the chamber faster. It also had simple safety things like a thermal fuse on the bed that many printers lack. As the Voron is open source there is active development on the platform to keep pushing it forward. I enjoy building things so I thought that would be fun and it would also make it so that no matter what breaks in the future I know I can fix it and parts will be available.
Edit: Realized I didn't mention that the Voron's build plate is 350x350.
The Bambu printers seem like good machines but didn't fit my needs. My older printer had a build plate of 320x310 and I could *just* print Kraken 624s on it. Anything much smaller and it wouldn't fit. Bambu's print beds are 254x254 so that eliminated them.
Most of the Prusa printers are open frame and bed slingers. Part of my wanting to upgrade was to be able to print more advanced materials so open frame was out.
Enclosing a bed slinger is possible but takes up even more room and gives a very large chamber volume that is harder to heat. That makes it more likely to get warping with ABS due to the part moving through different temp air as the bed moves around. I also wanted to get away from bed slingers due to the mass of them (limiting speed) and I don't like the constant movement of the bed heater wiring as I've had problems with that on other printers. That limited me to Core XY machines. Prusa has the XL but it costs more than the Voron.
At the time Creality was just starting to come out with the K1 and K1 Max. The Max looked interesting (wasn't quite available yet and might have been too small) but the very initial reviews on the K1 weren't terribly encouraging. Creality are price point printers so it was possible/likely it would need some hardware upgrades which would take some time for the aftermarket to figure out. I think at this point the K1 series have been hacked to have full access to Klipper which gives more flexibility to tuning them which is good.
Other than that there wasn't much else out there that wasn't considerably more money. There are a few more options now that are interesting. (Qidi) Not a lot of reviews on some of those newer printers and most are closed systems which makes changes more difficult or locks you into a specific slicer or wouldn't integrate with things like Octoprint or Obico.
The Voron 2.4 checked all the boxes for me. The idea that the build plate never moves was cool and avoided concerns around wire fatigue for the bed heater. That also had the nice benefit of keeping its weight located lower in the printer for more stability. The bed is thick and massive and opens up things like bed fans to help heat the chamber faster. It also had simple safety things like a thermal fuse on the bed that many printers lack. As the Voron is open source there is active development on the platform to keep pushing it forward. I enjoy building things so I thought that would be fun and it would also make it so that no matter what breaks in the future I know I can fix it and parts will be available.
Edit: Realized I didn't mention that the Voron's build plate is 350x350.
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shawn
Veteran
KEH's recent 20% off sale had me *almost* push the button on a SWC a number of times. Having the 40mm on the Bronicas was what kept me from doing it. For about the same cost I ended up with a digital version with essentially the same FOV, about 1.5 degrees difference and it gets me a backup body for my main kit.
Hard to get a sense of scale in these but it is small. Without the optical viewfinder, I had this on my belt using a capture clip. The grip doesn't really make it appreciably larger but makes it much easier to hold, gives a place for the OVF to mount and adds to the thumb grip on the back. That puts my thumb in just the right place to use the AEL button to activate auto focus. (AF On)
The mask on the viewfinder is almost perfect for the 17mm shooting in 1x1 mode. I'm going to print another mask for the same lens in 21:9. Might try moving the VF to be centered on the lens. If I do about a 1/4 of the bottom of the viewfinder is blocked by the lens in 1x1 mode. At its current position the lens is barely in the finder though it does make getting to the shutter button a little trickier.
In 1x1 mode this has 40 megapixels and a hair under 39 megapixels in 21:9. So plenty of resolution and it has more DR than my S1R.
Will see how big of an issue the electronic shutter is. Not planning on using it as an action, or flash, camera so I'm hopeful it won't get in the way.
Initial impressions is Sigma definitely does their own thing. The menu is reasonably similar to the SD/DP Quattro. I thought the Cine/Still switch was a gimmick but it is actually really nice that when it is in Photo the menus are all Photo based and when you switch it to Cine they switch to show all the Video based settings.
A few other notable things they do differently...
ISO from 6 -102400 (expansion on for high and low). Anything under ISO 100 is accomplished by taking multiple shots and blending in camera. That should reduce noise and maybe increase DR too. Edit: Found elsewhere that ISO 6 gains about 1 2/3 stops of DR compared to ISO 100.
The MF zoom function is different. If you turn the dial on a native lens you get the PIP zoom box that disappears after a few seconds. If you hit the button for the MF zoom it stays on and doesn't shut off, even after taking a shot. At first I hated that but I see the logic in it. When you half press the shutter it goes away to let you frame, otherwise it is on as a focus aid and you don't have to keep hitting a button to keep checking focus. When you want to frame you just half press to make it go away temporarily.
This Sigma has a very interesting option for adapted lenses that I haven't seen in camera before. You have 10 slots where you can record focal length and F stop and a Note for each lens. But what is really interesting is for each of those slots you can have a shading correction, you take a picture of a monotone surface and the camera will figure out the shading correction needed. Sort of like an in camera 'Corner Fix' for those that have used that software.
If Sigma ever ships their next Foveon this function will be very useful. I ended up getting shading errors with lenses I adopted to my SD Quattro H.
Hard to get a sense of scale in these but it is small. Without the optical viewfinder, I had this on my belt using a capture clip. The grip doesn't really make it appreciably larger but makes it much easier to hold, gives a place for the OVF to mount and adds to the thumb grip on the back. That puts my thumb in just the right place to use the AEL button to activate auto focus. (AF On)
The mask on the viewfinder is almost perfect for the 17mm shooting in 1x1 mode. I'm going to print another mask for the same lens in 21:9. Might try moving the VF to be centered on the lens. If I do about a 1/4 of the bottom of the viewfinder is blocked by the lens in 1x1 mode. At its current position the lens is barely in the finder though it does make getting to the shutter button a little trickier.
In 1x1 mode this has 40 megapixels and a hair under 39 megapixels in 21:9. So plenty of resolution and it has more DR than my S1R.
Will see how big of an issue the electronic shutter is. Not planning on using it as an action, or flash, camera so I'm hopeful it won't get in the way.
Initial impressions is Sigma definitely does their own thing. The menu is reasonably similar to the SD/DP Quattro. I thought the Cine/Still switch was a gimmick but it is actually really nice that when it is in Photo the menus are all Photo based and when you switch it to Cine they switch to show all the Video based settings.
A few other notable things they do differently...
ISO from 6 -102400 (expansion on for high and low). Anything under ISO 100 is accomplished by taking multiple shots and blending in camera. That should reduce noise and maybe increase DR too. Edit: Found elsewhere that ISO 6 gains about 1 2/3 stops of DR compared to ISO 100.
The MF zoom function is different. If you turn the dial on a native lens you get the PIP zoom box that disappears after a few seconds. If you hit the button for the MF zoom it stays on and doesn't shut off, even after taking a shot. At first I hated that but I see the logic in it. When you half press the shutter it goes away to let you frame, otherwise it is on as a focus aid and you don't have to keep hitting a button to keep checking focus. When you want to frame you just half press to make it go away temporarily.
This Sigma has a very interesting option for adapted lenses that I haven't seen in camera before. You have 10 slots where you can record focal length and F stop and a Note for each lens. But what is really interesting is for each of those slots you can have a shading correction, you take a picture of a monotone surface and the camera will figure out the shading correction needed. Sort of like an in camera 'Corner Fix' for those that have used that software.
If Sigma ever ships their next Foveon this function will be very useful. I ended up getting shading errors with lenses I adopted to my SD Quattro H.
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boojum
Ignoble Miscreant
If "bought" as opposed to "paid for" qualifies I am on the upgrade list for the new Pixii Max. The A2572 > A2572+ upgrade must be applied in whole or in part and then the Max. Yes, I am looking forward to Labor Day as September is when the Max upgrades are scheduled.
pggunn
gregor
I'm very interested in Pixii and with the full format option coming out, even more so. None of the criticisms I read have phased me. No LCD screen and having built in memory seem like advantages to me. Lack of a mechanical shutter doesn't bother me. It's a digital RF. I miss my old Epson RD-1. It was a quirky, unconventional camera too, but it was genius. The Pixii really appeals to me, and I was really impressed by the interview with the CEO that was posted here earlier in the thread. I mean the Pixii thread I have open in another tab.. Forgot where I was for a moment!
boojum
Ignoble Miscreant
The camera is quirky and not for everynody. Internal memory was assailed at first. Now Hasselblad has it, too. My one big complaint was the shutter sound was too quiet. That has been fixed. I wish it had a global shutter. It works quite well with what it has. But bottom line is that it makes good images with the APS-C and I am looking forward to seeing how well the Max does.
The video interview of David reveals a soft-spoken fellow. But I would not want to be in a poker game with him. He is plenty smart and plenty savvy.
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jaredangle
Photojournalist
Those look very nice - I will shoot them an email, thank you!