What have you shot on Arista Premium 400 (FreeStyle brand)

Just posted these 2 shots in the gallery.
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While I'm very confident that Tri-X will live on when Kodak is able to find a buyer for their formulas and manufacturing facilities, I am equally confident that the new buyer will not be selling stock to Freestyle to rebrand and offer at wonderful prices...as a result I've been stocking up on Arista Premium on a monthly basis.

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Bill's Open Mic
M7, Summilux 50 ASPH, Arista (Tri-X) @ EI 1600 in F76+

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Summer Waters
M3, ZM C Biogon 21, Tri-X (Arista) in f76+
 
Arista Premium 400 is Kodak Tri-X under Freestyle's branding. I have used it for almost all of my 35mm work for the last three years. The only other 35mm film I ever use is Ilford Delta 3200, but I use maybe 15 rolls of it a year to the 100 rolls of Arista Premium 400.

I've developed it in D-76 1+1, Rodinal 1+50, Tmax Developer 1+7, and PMK Pyro. It's Tri-X, and I use it to save money, since it costs half what Tri-X in Kodak's boxes costs.

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My grandparents house. After grandpa died, his kids sold it to a developer who let the fire dept. burn it down to train firefighters. I made this photo after it was burned down. This is developed in PMK.


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Developed in Tmax Developer 1+7


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D-76 1+1


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Rodinal 1+50
 
Yes, Yes, Tri-X Re-branded... BUT, Still, I want images from the Re-branded film..Why not? Those, like me, who shoot re-branded films, may feel guilty posting in OEM image forums :p
I agree with Chris, Kodak Tri-X is around $7.00-$8.00 for a 36x roll.... High Demand for OEM causes higher prices.

I just bought 10 36x at $24.00 Shipped off eBay (8/13 Expire), a savings of $8.00 if I ordered from Freestyle.
 
Nice photos guys!

Peter, that is heavier grain than I get. I use Rodinal 1:50, does 1:35 make that much difference? Or is it difference in agitation?

I follow the massive dev chart default, agitate for first minute, then 10 sec every minute. I am using a spinner, my tank doesn't do inversions.

Randy
 
zauhar said:
Nice photos guys!

Peter, that is heavier grain than I get. I use Rodinal 1:50, does 1:35 make that much difference? Or is it difference in agitation?

I follow the massive dev chart default, agitate for first minute, then 10 sec every minute. I am using a spinner, my tank doesn't do inversions.

Randy
Click to expand...

The Negs are a little under exposed, (most 1/3 stop, a few 1 stop), and I should have known that...

I automatically add 30% more time from the Massive Developer Chart, and 1/3 more exposure...Just what works in my set up...I shot this at ISO 400, not ISO 320.

I use a Patterson 2 real tank, 1st 30s, 20s every 2m there after, I spin, not invert.. I do have a water seal top though)
 
DNG said:
The Negs are a little under exposed, (most 1/3 stop, a few 1 stop), and I should have known that...

I automatically add 30% more time from the Massive Developer Chart, and 1/3 more exposure...Just what works in my set up...I shot this at ISO 400, not ISO 320.

I use a Patterson 2 real tank, 1st 30s, 20s every 2m there after, I spin, not invert.. I do have a water seal top though)
Click to expand...

So are you saying that the "real" ISO of Tri-X is 320, not 400, so by exposing at 400 you are actually underexposing by 1/3 stop?

Assuming that's correct, do you then add 30% to the dev chart time corresponding to ISO 320 or ISO 400?

Thanks!

Randy
 
zauhar said:
So are you saying that the "real" ISO of Tri-X is 320, not 400, so by exposing at 400 you are actually underexposing by 1/3 stop?

Assuming that's correct, do you then add 30% to the dev chart time corresponding to ISO 320 or ISO 400?

Thanks!

Randy
Click to expand...

I add a straight 30% regardless of the ISO. I can't figure out why I have to? It makes no difference on the film.

It seems like I have to do both! 30%+. AND 1/3+ exposure..
I could just at add more developer time, and shoot at box speed, I guess. But, I am already at a 30% increase...
When I did this in my teens, I don't remember adding more time for box speed... I lived in S. Florida at the time.

I have shot Acros 100, Neopan 400, Delta 100 and 400, HP5, Tri-X (Arista 400)... All needed a 30% hike on developer time. My FE meter reads as the meter in my Olympus OMD -E-M5...same f/stop and shutter speed to null the meter.

A few more from the same roll..


x2000-CS5x--012-10-21-2012--Morrisvile-IN-NikonFE-N50mm-Aristra400-R1to35-- by Peter Arbib, on Flickr


x2000-CS5x--017-10-21-2012--Morrisvile-IN-NikonFE-N50mm-Aristra400-R1to35-- by Peter Arbib, on Flickr


x2000-CS5x--010-10-21-2012--Morrisvile-IN-NikonFE-N50mm-Aristra400-R1to35-- by Peter Arbib, on Flickr
 
DNG said:
I add a straight 30% regardless of the ISO. I can't figure out why I have to? It makes no difference on the film.

It seems like I have to do both! 30%+. AND 1/3+ exposure..
I could just at add more developer time, and shoot at box speed, I guess. But, I am already at a 30% increase...
When I did this in my teens, I don't remember adding more time for box speed... I lived in S. Florida at the time.

I have shot Acros 100, Neopan 400, Delta 100 and 400, HP5, Tri-X (Arista 400)... All needed a 30% hike on developer time. My FE meter reads as the meter in my Olympus OMD -E-M5...same f/stop and shutter speed to null the meter.
Click to expand...

In summary : Shoot at box speed (400) and still add 30% to the chart time for ISO 400?

I will give it a try, also use 1:35 instead of 1:50 for dilution.

Great shots!

Randy
 
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Last years stock of Arista Premium 400 (1000 rolls). Still have some left - couple of 100 rolls - but will have to restock early next year. Good film, TriX in disguise. Curly though!!!
 
zauhar said:
In summary : Shoot at box speed (400) and still add 30% to the chart time for ISO 400?

I will give it a try, also use 1:35 instead of 1:50 for dilution.

Great shots!

Randy
Click to expand...

I also add 1/3 exposure (400 > 320)
If I shoot at box speed, with any film, with only the 30% increase, I get negatives that are a a tad under exposed. (A tad thin)
 
DNG said:
I also add 1/3 exposure (400 > 320)
If I shoot at box speed, with any film, with only the 30% increase, I get negatives that are a a tad under exposed. (A tad thin)
Click to expand...

Oh, sorry, I get it - you are shooting at 320, so overexpose by about 1/3 stop.

That makes sense, I have discovered (accidentally) that I can overexpose Tri-X by several stops and still have usable results.

Randy
 
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