What have you shot on Arista Premium 400 (FreeStyle brand)

mostof what I've shot in the past 2 years have been with AP400, although lately, I've been enamored with Neopan 400.
 
I'm just getting back into film photography after pulling out some old cameras I've had in storage and was wondering which film to use. Ya'll have helped me decide, thanks.

charjoncarter - Your photos have a wonderful look, would you mind letting me know your "recipe"?
 
DNG said:
I add a straight 30% regardless of the ISO. I can't figure out why I have to? It makes no difference on the film.

It seems like I have to do both! 30%+. AND 1/3+ exposure..
I could just at add more developer time, and shoot at box speed, I guess. But, I am already at a 30% increase...
When I did this in my teens, I don't remember adding more time for box speed... I lived in S. Florida at the time.

I have shot Acros 100, Neopan 400, Delta 100 and 400, HP5, Tri-X (Arista 400)... All needed a 30% hike on developer time. My FE meter reads as the meter in my Olympus OMD -E-M5...same f/stop and shutter speed to null the meter.

A few more from the same roll..


x2000-CS5x--012-10-21-2012--Morrisvile-IN-NikonFE-N50mm-Aristra400-R1to35-- by Peter Arbib, on Flickr


x2000-CS5x--017-10-21-2012--Morrisvile-IN-NikonFE-N50mm-Aristra400-R1to35-- by Peter Arbib, on Flickr


x2000-CS5x--010-10-21-2012--Morrisvile-IN-NikonFE-N50mm-Aristra400-R1to35-- by Peter Arbib, on Flickr
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Peter, you should not need to increase developing time, your photos are way too contrasty. Shooting in bright sun makes it worse, and you should be reducing the time to lower the contrast.

11 minutes at 68 degrees for Rodinal 1+50, shot at EI-320 should work perfectly for overcast light, and 8.5 minutes (with exposure at EI-160) should be great for harsh sun. How long are you developing for?
 
U35015I1343663719.SEQ.0.jpg
 
Chriscrawfordphoto said:
Peter, you should not need to increase developing time, your photos are way too contrasty. Shooting in bright sun makes it worse, and you should be reducing the time to lower the contrast.

11 minutes at 68 degrees for Rodinal 1+50, shot at EI-320 should work perfectly for overcast light, and 8.5 minutes (with exposure at EI-160) should be great for harsh sun. How long are you developing for?
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My histogram shows underexposure, but with high peaks in the mid-tones and shadow. (is that contrasty... several high peaks?)

Yet the negatives look thin on my light table.. (Daylight bulbs, less than a year old box by Porta-Trace).

With Rodinal, just few months. I don't do stand, but have been using 1:25 most of the time. So, use 1:50. Well, I shoot in Sun, Shade, Overcast on the same roll. And I have one film camera, so, I can't shoot one for SUN, and one for Shadow/Overcast.

I guess I need to do a test with you EI suggestions on the same roll for those lighting situations. And, stay with the base time.

So, use ISO 320 for Shadow/Overcast, and ISO 160 for Bright Sun on the same roll. I could use the EC "+1" for Bright Sun. Same as changing the ISO Dial from 320>160. It is a one hand operation with the FE. Where changing ISO is a 2 hand operation.
 
DNG said:
My histogram shows underexposure, but with high peaks in the mid-tones and shadow. (is that contrasty... several high peaks?)

Yet the negatives look thin on my light table.. (Daylight bulbs, less than a year old box by Porta-Trace).

With Rodinal, just few months. I don't do stand, but have been using 1:25 most of the time. So, use 1:50. Well, I shoot in Sun, Shade, Overcast on the same roll. And I have one film camera, so, I can't shoot one for SUN, and one for Shadow/Overcast.

I guess I need to do a test with you EI suggestions on the same roll for those lighting situations. And, stay with the base time.

So, use ISO 320 for Shadow/Overcast, and ISO 160 for Bright Sun on the same roll. I could use the EC "+1" for Bright Sun. Same as changing the ISO Dial from 320>160. It is a one hand operation with the FE. Where changing ISO is a 2 hand operation.
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No, not on the same roll. The reason for the different film speeds for sun and overcast is that you have to adjust the DEVELOPING TIME to change the contrast, and the shorter developing time used for photos done in contrasty light causes the film's effective speed to drop a stop.
 
Chriscrawfordphoto said:
Peter, you should not need to increase developing time, your photos are way too contrasty. Shooting in bright sun makes it worse, and you should be reducing the time to lower the contrast.

11 minutes at 68 degrees for Rodinal 1+50, shot at EI-320 should work perfectly for overcast light, and 8.5 minutes (with exposure at EI-160) should be great for harsh sun. How long are you developing for?
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I'm so glad this has come up because I've been using Rodinal 1+50 & I haven't been pleased at all. Too grainy for my taste for the photo's I shot. I been shooting in bright sunlight @ box speed & dev. @ 12 mins. I'm gonna try these times & EI.
 
@chris
I never answered your question...
I use 13min @ 20c. The base is 10m @ 20c for Rodinal 1:35 for Arista 400.
 
lisamodel-c.jpg

this picture looks like a drawing when shot at f1.4
Contax AX with Planar 85f1.4

Developed 2 rolls of trix-400 in 20ml of Rodinal and 600ml of water.
Developed at 30c for 5.5mins.
 
Nice shots all around. I love using this film but I always label it as Tri-X so I don't know in my digital scans what I've shot with this and the real Tri-X.
 
DNG said:
@chris
I never answered your question...
I use 13min @ 20c. The base is 10m @ 20c for Rodinal 1:35 for Arista 400.
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Yeah, that's way too long. Even shooting in soft light, Tri-X/Arista Premium 400 developed 13 minutes at the 1+35 concentration would be almost a two-stop push. Starting out in very contrasty light and doing that would make bulletproof negs!

1+35 is an unusual dilution, why do you use that instead of the more common 1+50 or 1+25?
 
gb hill said:
I'm so glad this has come up because I've been using Rodinal 1+50 & I haven't been pleased at all. Too grainy for my taste for the photo's I shot. I been shooting in bright sunlight @ box speed & dev. @ 12 mins. I'm gonna try these times & EI.
Click to expand...

Cool, I'm glad to help. Let us know how it works. I haven't developed any Tri-X in Rodinal in a couple years, but those times and exposures worked great when i did.

Here is one I shot with the lower contrast time (8.5 minutes, EI-160, 68 degree and 1+50)

dolls17.jpg
 
I'm a bit new to all this. I'm about to buy a bunch of film and start developing black and white at home. I've got ID11 as developer. What can I expect if I buy a bunch of Arista Premium? Should I go with a different developer?
 
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