spyder2000
Dim Bulb
While my leak was in a different spot, yous has all the same characteristics. I started my analysis by loading the camera with fast film, stopping the lens down all the way and capping the lens. Then I set the body in the sun for a few minutes. Advance the film two frames and set it down in a different position, and repeated these steps for a bit.
Then I processed the film and found that the light leak was most prevalent when the camera lens was facing the sun. It proved the lens was not the cause, and the correlation of the lens facing the sun had fooled me for some time when in fact the body had an issue that did not reliably recur.
Then I processed the film and found that the light leak was most prevalent when the camera lens was facing the sun. It proved the lens was not the cause, and the correlation of the lens facing the sun had fooled me for some time when in fact the body had an issue that did not reliably recur.
regularchickens
Well-known
I have had this recurring problem with my M2 on one or two frames per roll in bright conditions. I sent it to Youxin Ye, and he beefed up an internal light shield. The problem went away for a few months, but it has recently returned on one frame per roll or so.
I have seen other threads on this subject. It must be a fairly common occurrence, but I wonder if it's simply due to the age of the cameras we're using and their shutters, or if it's a design flaw?
I have seen other threads on this subject. It must be a fairly common occurrence, but I wonder if it's simply due to the age of the cameras we're using and their shutters, or if it's a design flaw?
rogue_designer
Reciprocity Failure
Its a mystery.
I'll try to keep a better journal of occurrences to see what can be determined. I think for now, I'll hold off on sending in though.
I'll try to keep a better journal of occurrences to see what can be determined. I think for now, I'll hold off on sending in though.
Sparrow
Veteran
don't spend money on it until you know what it is, if it was a missing shutter trap or a faulty shutter you would know, they spoil the whole film. I wondered if it was bright bits in the mount that just catch stray light on occasions. I'll look through my negs and see what i can find
Sparrow
Veteran
I lost four frames from 1300 I took this summer, so it isn't top of my "to do" list
rogue_designer
Reciprocity Failure
I lost four frames from 1300 I took this summer, so it isn't top of my "to do" list
I had a couple that looked like this too - in the first rolls I put through this camera. I assumed I just didn't get the film entirely on the rails, but maybe it was just another manifestation of the same problem.
interesting.
Yeah, it's only been 3 or 4 frames out of several hundred so far. Something to keep an eye on, but not spend to resolve yet.
Olsen
Well-known
This is no mystery at all. It is a light leak somewhere in the bottom of the camera (and top of the picture). This is not uncommon with old cameras. I had two Hasselblad film magasins that, after 30 years, started to leak. On these Hasselblads it is a cheap and streight forward process to replace some light seals and the film magasin is good for another 30 years.
I am pritty certain that this is a similar thing. An experienced Leica service shop will know what to do. What it costs; I don't know.
I am pritty certain that this is a similar thing. An experienced Leica service shop will know what to do. What it costs; I don't know.
Sparrow
Veteran
Sparrow
Veteran
I use a cv 50/f2.5 skopar for colour in the summer, I can point it at the sun with confidence. However it has got bright bits round the mount, consider internal reflections may be the cause
aniMal
Well-known
I had something the same on my M4-2 years ago. It seemed to happen only after spending a long time in the sun, so I decided that it was a minimal light leak in the shutter.
I think it might just be possible for light to ´turn around the corner´ of the bottom of the shutter - even the best black does not absorb all light after all. So, if the shutter runs a little higher than it should, it would actually leave a stripe like this. After passing under the shutter it will be cut off from the outer part of the frame because of the angle at which it travels and the small distance between the shutter and the film plane.
I suppose you could have the light seals replaced, but what I started doing myself was just advancing an extra frame after staying in the sun for a long time.
It actually helped in reminding me not to burn my shutter as well!
I think it might just be possible for light to ´turn around the corner´ of the bottom of the shutter - even the best black does not absorb all light after all. So, if the shutter runs a little higher than it should, it would actually leave a stripe like this. After passing under the shutter it will be cut off from the outer part of the frame because of the angle at which it travels and the small distance between the shutter and the film plane.
I suppose you could have the light seals replaced, but what I started doing myself was just advancing an extra frame after staying in the sun for a long time.
It actually helped in reminding me not to burn my shutter as well!
Melvin
Flim Forever!
I had this problem recently, to a subtler degree, with my Rolleiflex Automat. But I'm afraid I'm not much help either, because a. the camera doesn't have baffles, and b. I noticed I had neglected to lock down one of the hinges. So baffles or a light leak. Oh, I was shooting into the sun.
flyingoko
Michael
I have same with my M6 (typically four-six pics per roll). A my rare occurrence on M2, never happened on my M3. A lack of diagnosis on this one (plus the digital switch is why I've stopped using the M6). Very disappointing after shelling out big money. And sending it to a "reputable" Leica repair shop via an expensive Leica boutique in London.
Not even the expertise and experience of this forum's members can give a definitive answer.
Not even the expertise and experience of this forum's members can give a definitive answer.
flyingoko
Michael
Frustrated by flare
Frustrated by flare
Leica M6: I buy a camera that's meant to represent the acme of photographic excellence. And I get this:
Three shots from 36 spoilt. And it's so random; my other three shots on the London Underground were fine, my other four shots in Wroclaw's Old Town were fine.
So what's the deal? No one here knows. Light trap, internal reflections...
This camera is not sufficiently reliable to work with.
I'd sell it but don't want to pass on something that's duff. So it's just gathering dust now.
Until someone makes a digital back-and-base for the Leica M series.
Frustrated by flare
Leica M6: I buy a camera that's meant to represent the acme of photographic excellence. And I get this:
Three shots from 36 spoilt. And it's so random; my other three shots on the London Underground were fine, my other four shots in Wroclaw's Old Town were fine.
So what's the deal? No one here knows. Light trap, internal reflections...
This camera is not sufficiently reliable to work with.
I'd sell it but don't want to pass on something that's duff. So it's just gathering dust now.
Until someone makes a digital back-and-base for the Leica M series.
Attachments
Last edited:
newsgrunt
Well-known
I would email these photos to your Leica technician of choice and see what they say. Can't see how this could be the back door but ymmv.
Wondering, is the flare constrained within the frame or does it cut across the spacing as well ?
Wondering, is the flare constrained within the frame or does it cut across the spacing as well ?
Philip Whiteman
Well-known
I've suffered this problem with my M6. I am sure it is light getting in from the lens side of the shutter – hence the sharp cut-off, which is the frame masking the film from light illuminating the interior of the camera (it would be fogged from the edge, were light leaking past the rear door).
In my case, neither Leica UK or I could find any kind of fault until, while the camera was on loan to my brother, the problem went form once-in-a-blue-moon thing to something that ruined several exposures per roll. Taking the thing back from him, I found some small but significant movement in the lens mount: if you grasped the lens and attempted (gently) to bend it upwards, you could see the lower part of the chromed mount ring shifting slightly away from the body, letting light in around the bottom of the lens (i.e. onto the internal metalwork near the TOP of the image).
I found both the lower bayonet mount screws – the ones at 4 and 8 o'clock – were loose. One simply stripped its thread when I tried tightening it. Fixing the thread by a secret patent method (OK, inserting a curl of thin paper) I got the screws up tight. Not one partly-fogged frame since…
In my case, neither Leica UK or I could find any kind of fault until, while the camera was on loan to my brother, the problem went form once-in-a-blue-moon thing to something that ruined several exposures per roll. Taking the thing back from him, I found some small but significant movement in the lens mount: if you grasped the lens and attempted (gently) to bend it upwards, you could see the lower part of the chromed mount ring shifting slightly away from the body, letting light in around the bottom of the lens (i.e. onto the internal metalwork near the TOP of the image).
I found both the lower bayonet mount screws – the ones at 4 and 8 o'clock – were loose. One simply stripped its thread when I tried tightening it. Fixing the thread by a secret patent method (OK, inserting a curl of thin paper) I got the screws up tight. Not one partly-fogged frame since…
Henk
Established
I second Olsen, a light leak for sure.
flyingoko
Michael
LeicaTom
Watch that step!
I`ve been having a similar problem while shoting with my 1945 Leica IIIC K to IIIFBD Conversion, seems only in bright light, outdoors, afternoon sunshine.....and when using one of these two Nikkor lenses.....
IIIC K/IIIFBD w 1952 Nikkor "Japan" SC f1.4/50 @ f1.4 - Kodak Gold 100/Shutter Speeds between 100 to 1000/sec (Two different shoots at different times and rolls)
IIIC K/IIIFBD w 1952 Nikkor "Japan" SC f1.4/50 @ f1.4/f2.0 - Kodak Slide Film "Crossprocessed"/Shutter Speeds between 200 to 1000/sec
IIIC K/IIIFBD w 1957 Nikkor "Japan" HC f2.0/50 @ f2.0 - Kodak Gold 100/Shutter Speed at 200/sec?
The camera was CLA`d like 2 months ago.
I have this problem JUST when I`m using these two Nikkor Lenses, mostly with the f1.4 SC, BUT, I did have a very small flare with the f2.0 HC on my last photoshoot.
(note red sweater shot above)
very very slight line faded on left side of photo.
Both lenses are near mint/minty glass - the f1.4 SC was recently CLA`d the f2.0 HC is like new from original owner, crystal clear, no mars, wipe marks etc.
I`m always using the factory hoods (those crazy heavy chrome Nikkor ones) and also shooting a rapid succession of photos (the camera does`nt lay around or is in or near the sun) film was also developed same day etc.
I`ve shot at least 25/30 rolls since the CLA and there`s no problem with this camera when I`m using any other lenses, no flares or ghostly images.
Hmmm so here`s yet another strange problem and this time it`s a LTM Leica, no doors to leak or as such with the M Leica`s.
So I wonder what`s wrong, and why does it only happen when one of these two lenses are on the camera?
Tom
IIIC K/IIIFBD w 1952 Nikkor "Japan" SC f1.4/50 @ f1.4 - Kodak Gold 100/Shutter Speeds between 100 to 1000/sec (Two different shoots at different times and rolls)
IIIC K/IIIFBD w 1952 Nikkor "Japan" SC f1.4/50 @ f1.4/f2.0 - Kodak Slide Film "Crossprocessed"/Shutter Speeds between 200 to 1000/sec
IIIC K/IIIFBD w 1957 Nikkor "Japan" HC f2.0/50 @ f2.0 - Kodak Gold 100/Shutter Speed at 200/sec?
The camera was CLA`d like 2 months ago.
I have this problem JUST when I`m using these two Nikkor Lenses, mostly with the f1.4 SC, BUT, I did have a very small flare with the f2.0 HC on my last photoshoot.
(note red sweater shot above)
very very slight line faded on left side of photo.
Both lenses are near mint/minty glass - the f1.4 SC was recently CLA`d the f2.0 HC is like new from original owner, crystal clear, no mars, wipe marks etc.
I`m always using the factory hoods (those crazy heavy chrome Nikkor ones) and also shooting a rapid succession of photos (the camera does`nt lay around or is in or near the sun) film was also developed same day etc.
I`ve shot at least 25/30 rolls since the CLA and there`s no problem with this camera when I`m using any other lenses, no flares or ghostly images.
Hmmm so here`s yet another strange problem and this time it`s a LTM Leica, no doors to leak or as such with the M Leica`s.
So I wonder what`s wrong, and why does it only happen when one of these two lenses are on the camera?
Tom
Last edited:
LeicaTom
Watch that step!
Does anyone have an opinion on what`s doing that in my photos?
Tom
Tom
flyingoko
Michael
Rogue Designer (M4-2), Sparrow, Leica Tom (IIIc) and myself (M6) all have same problem, same symptoms. And the randomness of it all.
"No mystery at all", says Olsen. "Light leak". So why so random?
I'm more inclinded towards internal reflections. But how come Sparrow gets four frames out of 1,300 with flare, Rogue Designer 'three or four out of several hundred", Leica Tom seems to get every frame (am I right), while I get three or four from a roll on average.
I look forward to expert analysis.
Not "there's nothing wrong with this camera, that'll be 250 pounds please".
"No mystery at all", says Olsen. "Light leak". So why so random?
I'm more inclinded towards internal reflections. But how come Sparrow gets four frames out of 1,300 with flare, Rogue Designer 'three or four out of several hundred", Leica Tom seems to get every frame (am I right), while I get three or four from a roll on average.
I look forward to expert analysis.
Not "there's nothing wrong with this camera, that'll be 250 pounds please".
