What is causing this? (OM1 issue)

[david.elliott]

Just tried it on the metal part of my stapler. It seems to have killed much of the reflective sheen.

If you want good stuff, go to a hobby store and ask for matte, pure black paint.

 

[Chris101]

Thanks. Any recommendations on a specific kind of paint I should get and how to apply it?

Use this stuff:

It is made for dulling the interior of optical instruments. Apply it with a q-tip.

 

[Chris101]

I've never been to Az, let alone in summer. So a part of me is saying "How bad could it be?". Which I guess is what everyone says before disaster strikes. My dad bought a house for cheap in Phoenix (I guess that's where my parents are going to go in the winter now) so that's why I'm going - anything photogenic around there? ...

Everything is photogenic around here. There is an uncommon beauty to the heat (it will be 116 tomorrow) that is unlike anything else. Pretty much the outdoors is dead, because all the (sane) people stay inside with the AC on full blast. I like to shoot IR in the midday summer, I know that it's not heat, but there seems to be an abundance of nir, especially in agricultural areas.

What do you like to shoot? PM me when you arrive and perhaps we can get together for a shooting session.

 

[Darkhorse]

I'll only be there for the weekend to see my parents so I won't have time. I'd mostly like to shoot landscapes, rock formations etc.

Thanks for the tip about the brushing lacquer. I'll look for it at Samys this afternoon.

 

[Chris101]

... landscapes, rock formations ...

Central Phoenix: South Mountain park (go S. on Central Ave - it goes right up the mountain. 1/2 hour drive), Scottsdale: the Boulders area (go N. on Scottsdale Rd, about 1 mile from Carefree. Again about 1/2 hour out of town), Tempe: Papago park buttes (Right in town between Phoenix, Scottsdale and Tempe, McDowell and 64th St.) All of these places have nice, natural desert landscape, rocks and wildlife.

 

[FallisPhoto]

Thanks. Any recommendations on a specific kind of paint I should get and how to apply it?

Spray a little Krylon Ultraflat Black into a tin can and brush it onto the edges of the frame opening. If you can't find Krylon, try "stove paint" (found in most hardware stores and used to paint wood stoves), it is also very flat. Both are often used by restorers to flock the insides of cameras.

 

[Darkhorse]

Thanks.
I just called a photo/camera place I like and they had nothing like brushing Lacquer. I'll be close to a Home Depot tonight so I'll pick some up. Should I apply it with a Q-tip?

 

[david.elliott]

Be careful if you are using a q-tip not to let the little fluffs get in the shutter or anything. You could use one of those foam makeup tip applicators. I dunno what they are called. My girlfriend has them for something.

They look like a cylinder that has had a diagonal slice taken through it. Small foam bit is the cylinder as described, with a long clear plastic handle attached.

Damned if I know what it is for.

EDIT: I googled. I think it is a cuticle pusher.

 

[Darkhorse]

I think it's used for the eyelid or something like that.

I was planning to have the shutter locked open the whole time by using my cable release.

 

[david.elliott]

Ah. Good call.

 

[chippy]

What you guys dont know what all those funny applicators , bibs and bobs to do with putting makeup on are for! whys that sheeze i think we need more females on this site, they could chip in with this valuable info LOL

Darkhourse, didnt i say about this light reflecting of the edges at the beginning!

on a cautionary note; the problem with rushing out getting a paint and applying it (with whatever) right before you go away to the desert to stick film in and use it, is your not giving yourself much time to test if the paint will stick/stay on (you could test on another section in the film chamber for instance). if the surface is black paint shiny, it may need some sort of preparation (light sanding with very fine emery paper for example, its possible that may solve it anyway, hard to know because i havnt had to do it on these and i cant see your camera). it would be a shame if little flakes of paint came off and got into the shutter curtains, on the film or god knows where else.

if you have to use the camera soon i would just live with it as it is until you have more time to test and do it properly

 

[Melvin]

It looks a little like a problem I have with my Rolleiflex Automat, which I think is caused by light from the lens image bouncing of a surface inside the camera and onto the film. But maybe not. You could try opening the back of the camera, opening the shutter and pointing the camera toward a bright overhead light to see if there's light bouncing off of internal surfaces. Some cameras are so notorious for having this problem that they sell flocking kits for them ( a Kiev 66 or something like that).

 

[FallisPhoto]

Thanks.
I just called a photo/camera place I like and they had nothing like brushing Lacquer. I'll be close to a Home Depot tonight so I'll pick some up. Should I apply it with a Q-tip?

I use small watercolor brushes with a "bright" tip. You get a more even flow of paint, no fluff hanging in burrs, and no thin spots showing through.

 

[FallisPhoto]

It looks a little like a problem I have with my Rolleiflex Automat, which I think is caused by light from the lens image bouncing of a surface inside the camera and onto the film. But maybe not. You could try opening the back of the camera, opening the shutter and pointing the camera toward a bright overhead light to see if there's light bouncing off of internal surfaces. Some cameras are so notorious for having this problem that they sell flocking kits for them ( a Kiev 66 or something like that).

The really notorious one was the Kiev 88. Some of them came completely unflocked. Heck, some came unlubricated, with rough-cut parts. A lot of them were more like DIY camera-building kits than finished cameras.

 

[FallisPhoto]

Darkhourse, didnt i say about this light reflecting of the edges at the beginning!

Yeah, guys. Those of us who know everything get very annoyed when you don't listen.

on a cautionary note; the problem with rushing out getting a paint and applying it (with whatever) right before you go away to the desert to stick film in and use it, is your not giving yourself much time to test if the paint will stick/stay on (you could test on another section in the film chamber for instance). if the surface is black paint shiny, it may need some sort of preparation (light sanding with very fine emery paper for example, its possible that may solve it anyway, hard to know because i havnt had to do it on these and i cant see your camera). it would be a shame if little flakes of paint came off and got into the shutter curtains, on the film or god knows where else.

if you have to use the camera soon i would just live with it as it is until you have more time to test and do it properly

The most commonly used paints for flocking are Krylon Ultra Flat Black and (for the old timers) stove paint. Both will stick to bare metal without primer, and at least the stove paint is durable to a really extreme degree (think about what it is meant to stand up to). Yes, it does help if the metal has a little tooth to it, to help the paint stick better, but it isn't a friction surface and even without that, it should stick.

 

[Darkhorse]

I couldn't find Krylon Ultra Flat black, or stove paint. I could get some rust-o-leum ultra coat flat black or somesuch paint. We'll see how it turns out tomorrow.

 

[Darkhorse]

So on Friday I dabbed some of the paint on the frame and the next morning I went for a hike to take some test shots. I got mixed results - I could sorta see the problem occurring but to a lesser degree but since I dabbed on the paint with a Q tip I had some hairs on the edges and it looked a bit rough.

This morning I got rid of a lot of that paint, masked off the area and just spray painted on the film gate directly. This afternoon I took some tests and I think that problem was resolved.

I couldn't see the issue here on a bright subject, where the problem was most prone to occur. The edges are a bit more rough, but this is a non-issue I think, if anything it may add a bit more to the aesthetic.

They weren't visible in these two high-contrast shots either.

I saw no problem in the subdued light shots either.

HOWEVER I have been noticing an increasingly troubling problem. It looks like a light leak, usually in between negs. This is especially troubling because I just replaced the light seals. I added additional light seal before this shoot and the problem seems even worse than previously.

These pretty much always happen in the middle of the neg, frequently in between the frames like on the far right (or at least that's where it's most noticeable).

Before I pin this on a light leak, could chemicals be a problem? Maybe I need to make fresher Fixer? I bought my bottle of liquid 76 months and months ago, could that be a problem as well?

 

[chippy]

Nice test shots Mr. Irvine dont suppose you could go through that door and check on a parcel for me eh

glad you appear to have solved the problem, it seems as one problem is solved another is uncovered, bit like peeling the layers of that onion

 

[Trius]

If you added "too much" light trap material, might nit the door closure no longer be perfect? I.e., tiny gap(s) created?

 

[Darkhorse]

Somehow I don't think that's the issue. If that were the case, wouldn't that mean that light would more likely come from the sides rather than the middle?