hap
Well-known
Is there really a practical aspect these days of MD-4 and MF-14 for the F3? Or is just what a bad ass F3 looks like?
Noserider
Christiaan Phleger
Hey all, longtime F3 shooter, I've posted many of my news PJ and wedding stories with both the F3 and the F4. At one point in the early 1990's I personally knew all the photographers at both of the local daily newspapers and out of the staff of 5-8 on each paper every one of them shot Nikon F3's, usually showing to events up with two or three bodies. There was one guy who shot night sports with an Olympus OM-4 with the 250mm f/2 (incredible lens, the only time I've ever seen one) but for the most part most shooters chose the F3 until the AF shift to Canon happened. I managed to scoop a bunch of Nikon gear when both the papers went to AF with one paper going full Canon (corporate decision).
I've kept most of my old F3's from that time, I transitioned to doing weddings with a partner and we shot F3's and F4's (for flash work). All of my F3's got some sort of CLA/repair at some point (back when NPS had strongest emphasis on the P and was Very difficult to get the membership), and I've shared how one body with a 13xxxx serial number (the oldest of my F3's) came back from NPS with a 19xxx serial number, so don't assume a high serial number is indicative of low use. That one F3 body was not one but two daily news photographer's daily shooter for years, I figure it did 5-10 rolls a day for at least 4 years before I got it. That one had one or two cracked FRE fixes and the last one is when they sent it back with the new 19xxx serial number. It still works as intended and I try to run a roll a two per year thru it to keep it operational.
SO, durability is far far beyond what most shooters would ever consider possible, which is why I've always recommended the F3 to anyone interested in a film camera, and for a while the prices were just unimaginably low. I picked up a perfectly fine looking F3HP for 25.00 from a photo buddy a couple of years ago (before the spike); it needed a bit of cleaning and a relatively simple shutter adjustment and I passed it on to my niece as a present (mounting an old 28mm f/2 with metal hood on it).
Side note on the shutter; as I understand it the shutter always operates full speed at the beginning of the sequence, and it is the electronic control of the release of the 2nd curtain that allows the crystal timing of the shutter. In the adjustment of the above mentioned F3 what was required was a slight tinker with a screwdriver while firing the shutter into bright sunlight; I could see the early capping of the shutter on 1/2000 and by the smallest of adjustment I was able to back the capping off. The factory repair manual gives the procedure, it seems you get that top mechanical speed correct (or close enough to not cap) then all the other speeds become correct. Nikon's History about shutter development gives a lot of good insight into what was considered a uniquely durable shutter. I have not a doubt that any semi-competent camera repair person should be able to do most common fixes on an F3 (other than an FRE replacement; and I agree at some point someone might consider doing a small run of custom FRE replacements).
As for the spike in prices I've long thought the F3 was very undervalued. What is now even more undervalued is the MD-4; those were 1/3-1/2 of a new F3's body only price, and most enthusiast owners of both never ever got close to maximum useful life out of the camera or the motor. 20-30 dollars for a motor of this quality is insane. If you're interested to see what the F3 can really do with a motor track down an old MN-2 Nicad battery pack (most likely needs a rebuild with NiMh cells), lock up the mirror and let her rip.
I've kept most of my old F3's from that time, I transitioned to doing weddings with a partner and we shot F3's and F4's (for flash work). All of my F3's got some sort of CLA/repair at some point (back when NPS had strongest emphasis on the P and was Very difficult to get the membership), and I've shared how one body with a 13xxxx serial number (the oldest of my F3's) came back from NPS with a 19xxx serial number, so don't assume a high serial number is indicative of low use. That one F3 body was not one but two daily news photographer's daily shooter for years, I figure it did 5-10 rolls a day for at least 4 years before I got it. That one had one or two cracked FRE fixes and the last one is when they sent it back with the new 19xxx serial number. It still works as intended and I try to run a roll a two per year thru it to keep it operational.
SO, durability is far far beyond what most shooters would ever consider possible, which is why I've always recommended the F3 to anyone interested in a film camera, and for a while the prices were just unimaginably low. I picked up a perfectly fine looking F3HP for 25.00 from a photo buddy a couple of years ago (before the spike); it needed a bit of cleaning and a relatively simple shutter adjustment and I passed it on to my niece as a present (mounting an old 28mm f/2 with metal hood on it).
Side note on the shutter; as I understand it the shutter always operates full speed at the beginning of the sequence, and it is the electronic control of the release of the 2nd curtain that allows the crystal timing of the shutter. In the adjustment of the above mentioned F3 what was required was a slight tinker with a screwdriver while firing the shutter into bright sunlight; I could see the early capping of the shutter on 1/2000 and by the smallest of adjustment I was able to back the capping off. The factory repair manual gives the procedure, it seems you get that top mechanical speed correct (or close enough to not cap) then all the other speeds become correct. Nikon's History about shutter development gives a lot of good insight into what was considered a uniquely durable shutter. I have not a doubt that any semi-competent camera repair person should be able to do most common fixes on an F3 (other than an FRE replacement; and I agree at some point someone might consider doing a small run of custom FRE replacements).
As for the spike in prices I've long thought the F3 was very undervalued. What is now even more undervalued is the MD-4; those were 1/3-1/2 of a new F3's body only price, and most enthusiast owners of both never ever got close to maximum useful life out of the camera or the motor. 20-30 dollars for a motor of this quality is insane. If you're interested to see what the F3 can really do with a motor track down an old MN-2 Nicad battery pack (most likely needs a rebuild with NiMh cells), lock up the mirror and let her rip.
farlymac
PF McFarland
I like my F3's, except the one that stops counting at 27. Always figured I'd pop the top to see what the issue is, but kind of stopped working on cameras before that. Maybe someday.
My all time best buy on a Nikon SLR was an F2AS for $22.00. The unlocking lever on the side of the prism was broken, but otherwise it worked just fine. I figured I wouldn't be removing the finder more than once a year so it doesn't bother me.
PF
My all time best buy on a Nikon SLR was an F2AS for $22.00. The unlocking lever on the side of the prism was broken, but otherwise it worked just fine. I figured I wouldn't be removing the finder more than once a year so it doesn't bother me.
PF
Pál_K
Cameras. I has it.
I’m just waiting for an encounter with that type of jerk. My response will be, “I have numerous digital cameras - better than yours. I prefer film.”
Pál_K
Cameras. I has it.
Someone in the RFF classifieds right now is looking for an F3HP -- must be mint. I wonder what he's willing to pay?
My two F3/T’s (one black, one champagne with MD-4) are both mint. Indistinguishable from new, actually, despite having used them regularly for many years. No scratches, dents, or brassing - they’re kept in a small padded case when I’m out making photos and I remove them only when ready to make the photos.
At the moment I forget what I paid for them. I do remember ripping up the boxes and throwing them away, only to regret it moments later.
I understand about keeping boxes! I still have my F2A box, Nikkormat FT2 box, and others. Learned the hard way that the styrofoam outgasses- so NEVER leave lenses and optics in the original styrofoam.
One "Dad" at a school event -around 2006- that I was taking pictures at looked at my camera and said "I have 3 SLR's, don't use them anymore, I'm all digital now. You should look at it". Told him, "I've been shooting Digital since 1981. In fact, THIS camera (a Nikon N8008s) USED to be digital. I converted it to use film." It was a DCS200c, electronics went bad.
My first "Store-Bought" DSLR was a Kodak DCS200ir, built around the N8008s. The body was $12,400- almost 30 years ago. 1.6MPixels. 80MByte SCSI drive built in. Before that- worked on custom digital sensors. They were expensive.
Pál_K
Cameras. I has it.
Oops. Does it fog the lens?
About 15 years ago I bought a new 28-85 Nikkor AIS which I kept unopened for maybe three years. It seems ok.
I have two Hasselblad lenses, a 120 and 150 which I have resting on a shelf in the bottom half of their styrofoam container, but they’re open to the air otherwise.
But didn’t realize keeping the lenses in their styrofoam isn’t good.
Fogged a Beautiful Nikkor 105/2.5 that was factory AI'd by Nikon. I had to send the lens in for cleaning to Essex.