LeicaFoReVer
Addicted to Rangefinders
After ruining several rolls with expired Fomadon R09 and Perceptol (which is very short life developer), what shall I order for me as a next developer. I would prefer powder as I will order from another country. It is not easy to find a store selling that stuff in Turkey anymore.
As I shoot sporadically, I want something non-prone to oxidation which shouldnt exhaust easily. I really loved real Rodinal which lasted years and you use literally drops to develop. Unfortunately now I know that R09 is not like that although it gives similar development results.
As I shoot sporadically, I want something non-prone to oxidation which shouldnt exhaust easily. I really loved real Rodinal which lasted years and you use literally drops to develop. Unfortunately now I know that R09 is not like that although it gives similar development results.
papaki
Established
D-76 can be kept in powder form for years. So does X-Tol.
Once diluted D-76 has to be used within months, X-Tol can last for a year (I have mine for eight months and still works).
Once diluted D-76 has to be used within months, X-Tol can last for a year (I have mine for eight months and still works).
John Bragg
Well-known
HC-110 is the gold standard for long life. Although a liquid, it is very economical and lasts for years. I divide a litre bottle into 4 smaller bottles and it has never once let me down even when the colour changes to brown. Like you, I do not develop film as often as I would like to, so using it one shot and discarding suits me fine. I measure mine with a syringe and then wash out the excess into the working solution. It is much easier than using a measuring cylinder as the concentrate is very thick.
znapper
Well-known
I second HC-110, it's a very good developer.
"Proper" Rodinal (make research to get the right one) also keeps for very long, mine is 4 years old now, dark and muddy but still works just fine.
"Proper" Rodinal (make research to get the right one) also keeps for very long, mine is 4 years old now, dark and muddy but still works just fine.
Chriscrawfordphoto
Real Men Shoot Film.
Tmax Developer lasts a very long time once opened. Its a liquid, and kind of expensive, but it is one of my favorite developers. Especially good for Tmax 400, Delta 400, and Delta 3200.
Chriscrawfordphoto
Real Men Shoot Film.
Which is the right one? Adonol (the final version made by Agfa), APH-09 (the prewar formula from East Germany), or the Fomadon version?
LeicaFoReVer
Addicted to Rangefinders
Fomadon is exausted after a couple of years. It could last longer if I kept it at a colder and drker place though.
Sent from my m2 note using Tapatalk
LeicaFoReVer
Addicted to Rangefinders
how is Ilfosol 3? I found it in a local market.
Ronald M
Veteran
Not just oxidation prone, but color indication of it being bad.
I scratch mix D76 for 2 decades now. Decant to four oz bottles which makes 8 oz of D76 1:1, perfect for one roll in stainless tank. Specialty bottle company.
It turns brownish as it goes bad. Never leave in partially full bottle. Careful tests show it lasts 6 months and then starts to go bad slowly.
DD X and Xtol do not turn and you never know until the roll is very low contrast.
I scratch mix D76 for 2 decades now. Decant to four oz bottles which makes 8 oz of D76 1:1, perfect for one roll in stainless tank. Specialty bottle company.
It turns brownish as it goes bad. Never leave in partially full bottle. Careful tests show it lasts 6 months and then starts to go bad slowly.
DD X and Xtol do not turn and you never know until the roll is very low contrast.
John Bragg
Well-known
Ilfosol 3 is a great developer, but it does not keep well once opened.
Rob-F
Likes Leicas
Let me add DD-X to the list. It always seems to work, even in a partially filled old bottle. And besides, I love the negatives I get with it. It's good for pushing and/or getting higher effective speed, and for tonality as well.
LeicaFoReVer
Addicted to Rangefinders
DD-X isnt a common developer I suppose Rob?
As a rule of thumb probably fine grain developers are prone to get exhausted faster. Is that right?
Examples, Ilfosol 3, Perceptol etc.
As a rule of thumb probably fine grain developers are prone to get exhausted faster. Is that right?
Examples, Ilfosol 3, Perceptol etc.
ashfaque
Learning
If you buy some raw chemicals you can make your own developers as and when you need. Since most raw chemicals are powder, they'll be quite fine for a very long time so long you keep them in glass bottles.
Very similar recipes (, with almost identical results,) for
- Perceptol (for finest grain and slow speed),
- ID-11/D-76 (for gen. purpose) and
- Microphen/ID-68 (for speed increasing) developers,
and many similar recipes are publicly available. But I mention those three assuming you'd like to stick to the ones you've used.
The only additional things you'll need are
- a small digital scale that can measure as low as 0.01 gram and up to 200-500 grams. That shouldn't cost you more than 10 USD with shipping!
- a mask (very cheap from the local pharmacist shop)
It's incredibly easy to make.
I spent about $40 to get my raw chemicals (that included 500 grams of Metol). Now I can make Perceptol, Beutler, and H76 (D76H) Haist (<- D-76 type outcome but a recipe without Hydroquinone) any time I want without worryin about them going bad. I will probably spend another $20-40 to buy some hydroquinone and phenidone when I finish my stock of HC-110 and Microphen.
Bests,
Ashfaque
Very similar recipes (, with almost identical results,) for
- Perceptol (for finest grain and slow speed),
- ID-11/D-76 (for gen. purpose) and
- Microphen/ID-68 (for speed increasing) developers,
and many similar recipes are publicly available. But I mention those three assuming you'd like to stick to the ones you've used.
The only additional things you'll need are
- a small digital scale that can measure as low as 0.01 gram and up to 200-500 grams. That shouldn't cost you more than 10 USD with shipping!
- a mask (very cheap from the local pharmacist shop)
It's incredibly easy to make.
I spent about $40 to get my raw chemicals (that included 500 grams of Metol). Now I can make Perceptol, Beutler, and H76 (D76H) Haist (<- D-76 type outcome but a recipe without Hydroquinone) any time I want without worryin about them going bad. I will probably spend another $20-40 to buy some hydroquinone and phenidone when I finish my stock of HC-110 and Microphen.
Bests,
Ashfaque
ChrisPlatt
Thread Killer
Volume users here have no problems and will swear by their favorite developer.
The rest of us occasional users would wind up throwing away half of it.
Like others I suggest you stick to HC110 and Rodinal.
Chris
The rest of us occasional users would wind up throwing away half of it.
Like others I suggest you stick to HC110 and Rodinal.
Chris
LeicaFoReVer
Addicted to Rangefinders
In a local market I found hc110 (quite expensive though 1kg 35$) but it has an expiry date of 01.2017. Shall I worry about it?
How is ID-11same as d76? It says it has 6 months shelf life.
How is ID-11same as d76? It says it has 6 months shelf life.
mcfingon
Western Australia
I believe HC-110 would keep well in a fridge after opening. I have kept some Ilford LC-29 which is similar for years after opening this way and it is still working well. ID-11 is very close to D76. You mix it from two packs, not one like D76. I believe the end result is very much the same. I have kept ID-11 in 300ml bottles for 6 months in a dark area over an Australian summer (up to 20 degrees celsius in the darkroom) and it is still working fine. In fact I think it is better with some re-use and age: seasoned.
znapper
Well-known
I keep my Hc-bottle in room temperature (with the cap on), I pour out around 250ml (1/4 off the bottle) to a smaller glass-bottle because it's easier to measure out from it.
Hc will keep "forever", no need to chill it at all, just keep that cap on the original bottle.
Hc will keep "forever", no need to chill it at all, just keep that cap on the original bottle.
Skiff
Well-known
If you've loved Rodinal, then just continue to use it: The original formula is now produced by Adox, they have the recipe and the brand rights.
Fotoimpex is shipping internationally:
https://www.fotoimpex.de/shopen/chemistry/adox-rodinal-250-ml-concentrate.html
ashfaque
Learning
Yes, HC-110 is relatively more expensive than most developers*. But it's output and keeping property (mostly due to the lack of water in it) are worth every penny.
As for the difference between ID-11 and D-76, check teh followings:
http://www.apug.org/forum/index.php?threads/d76-vs-id11.61798/
http://www.lostlabours.co.uk/photography/formulae/developers/devID11.htm
Both (and others like Microphen/ID-68, Perceptol and the like) can be stored a bit longer (probably 9+ months), provided you keep them in airtight bottles with the least amount of air and in a relatively cool environment, and away from direct light.
You can also get rid off the air using butane (lighter gas), argon (expensive stuff mainly due to the cylinder), Tetenal's Protectan, or something similar. The cheapest is butane gas, which I use with my SPUR chemicals (HRX and Acurol-N). You can use them with Rodinal and HC-110 bottles too.
As for Rodinal: If you want the 'proper' version get Adox's Rodnial/Adonal, instead of Compard R09 or something else. From what I read on APUG, and a few other forums, the difference, in terms of output, is almost non-existent. Adox's Adonal/Rodinal probably has a better keeping properties.
Bests,
Ashfaque
* = expensive as a price of 1 ltr bottle compare to the other 1ltr dev. pack ( - DD-X, T-Max Dev., & others). But it is one of the cheapest when you develop films in Dilution B or lower. I should've clarified this point.
Rob-F
Likes Leicas
It's not hard to find. I get mine from B&H, usually along with a shipment of film and other supplies. I suppose some local stores may stock it, although our stores in St. Louis don't seem to.