What would you do?

[David Hughes]

David, do any of these cameras have AEL?

- Murray

Hi,

The OM-4 and X-300 have AE lock in auto mode but beware as that's based on me looking at the manuals just now and not using it.

My OM-4 will allow up to 8 spot meter readings to be averaged and held. So you could take two readings from the face and one from the background and it would average them for the shot and then there's a clear button to drop the calculated reading when you decide to. It seems to work.

As for the OM-2SP, I've not had it long enough to comment. I picked it up dirt cheap this summer and have put one film through it and made a note to play with it a bit more. In other words, I'm not too sure about it, which I find worrying, and I'm against over complication and so (edit) it may go into the 'sell' heap....

I hope that makes sense. In your shoes I'd look for a downloadable manual and struggle through it but it's not the same.

Regards, David

 

[CMur12]

Thanks, David. I can confirm that the X-300 (X-370 in the US) has AEL, but I didn't know about the Olympus OM-2, OM-4, and the Pentax ME/Super.

- Murray

 

[nickthetasmaniac]

I was talking to one of the people who work at a local shop earlier today and they were saying that the ME's and most of the Pentax cameras of that era have unreliable electronics. Does anyone have any anecdotal evidence to support or refute?

I've been using MX's and LX's on and off for a few years and have never had issues with electronics...

Do you specifically want AE as an option? If not, I would seriously look at a Pentax MX, rather than the ME. Same body, but fully manual and with a phenomenal viewfinder. It's a great way to get access to the SMC lenses, which as others mention, offer amazing bang for buck.

You should be able to find one in nice condition with the M50mm f1.7 or f1.4 for the same price or less that the OM4 you mention...

 

[jamin-b]

As much as I like the Me Super I would say take a good look at the Super Program. I found it to be everything the Me Super is with a few additional useful features. So far no issues with electronics (with either) and the meter is right on.

 

[sreed2006]

Thanks for the replies everyone. As I suspected, the OM's appear to be the best choice. A spot meter would be handy indeed...can it only be used it manual mode or when you press the spot button, does it override the center-weighted meter in both auto and manual?

In the OM-4, the spot meter reading(s) override the center-weighted meter reading in both manual and automatic modes. In automatic mode, the exposure compensation dial can be used to move the exposure left or right.

When spot metering, the meter shows all the readings, and the average. Seeing all the readings is very educational - you learn something you can use, such as how to get the exact exposure you want, or whether there's too much contrast to capture everything in the scene on the film.

There is a switch around the shutter button. Pull to the right to clear the spot reading(s), push to the left to memorize (which functions as the AE lock). The memorization lasts for up to one minute after the last press of the shutter button. After 1 minute of inactivity then the meter readings are cleared automatically, and the camera goes back to center-weighted metering.

 

[mcfingon]

I have an Olympus OM10, a Pentax MX and a Pentax ME Super. The ones that I have all have reliability drawbacks, in that they are at an age when their shutter mechanisms are starting to periodically jam because of foam bits falling in to them or lack of lubrication. At the moment, I would choose the Olympus OM10 as a nicer user camera as having the better viewfinder for my long-sighted eyes and less shutter kick and noise than the ME Super or MX. Unfortunately, the OM10's shutter is jammed, possibly because of an issue with the electro-magnetic part of its shutter-release...

 

[Photog9000]

For me, it would be the OM-4 series. I had a pair of OM-4's (one OM-4 and one OM-4T) that I traded a pair of OM-2S bodies and some cash to get around 1990 (or maybe a little earlier). When I decided to quit part time work and went full time as a newspaper freelancer, I eventually sold them for a pair of Nikon F100 bodies with MB-15 drives.
BUT I loved the metering system on those OM-4 bodies. I carried a grey card with me and would take highlight and shadow readings for an average setting. As long as the light did not vary much, I could really concentrate on my compositions and the action around me. I only went autofocus because of the need for better tracking of high school sports. The OM-4, for me, still ranks as one of the best cameras I have ever owned.

 

[Dpingr1]

I have two ME's and an ME Super. All are a joy to use, but the Super offers more creative control for roughly the same price (often less than $50 USD in great condition). All have meters that measure close or identical to my best cameras and Sekonic handheld meters, and they use easy to find button batteries. The ME is small, ergonomic, and the SMC lenses produce beautiful sharp images, especially with color. I love my ME's (that's why I have three!)

 

[AlexBG]

I'd buy the OM2n and the ME.

Use both and then keep your favourite. For the prices you are paying you could sell them easily for that and use the money on another lens, maybe a 35mm or 85mm. Or the 50mm 1.4 olympus is a great lens.

 

[David Hughes]

Hi,

Just looked at the first post again and it's amazing to this old git that the extra ten Canadian dollars gets the OM-4 over the OM-2N and the f/1.4 lens as well. Amazing...

Regards, David

 

[farlymac]

One thing for sure, Colin, whichever camera you choose, there will be no lack of choice for lenses later on. You can't go wrong in the long run with any of your possible selections. It will be mostly up to how much initial outlay you are comfortable with, as later expenses will likely be equivalent.

As to any problems that may crop up, I don't know of any general complaints about the electronics in an ME, but that line is known for shutters that get stuck, which requires a major teardown to fix. I've got a Super that needs to go in for such a job, as resetting the shutter myself does not clear the problem. This may be caused by non-use over an extended period of time, or just bad storage. Still something to consider.

PF