what's a good solid M body?

I'm not trying to prove anything

I'm not trying to prove anything

I'm asking for advice. I've never owned a Bessa. The Bessas (some) can mount M-mount lenses, the Nikons can't.

So what is more likely to go out, a Bessa VF or other part, or the Leica rewind jam?

Are Bessas light tight?


Last time I checked,this thread was posted on Leica M...
He fooled you, didn't he???

Ampguy does that!

Bessa are as good as Leicas???

Ampguy can not prove that!!

Kiu
 
I recommend modifying a Leica MP with drive train components from a tractor. I do however suspect that the balance might be affected 😀

Thing is a few hundred rolls is nothing...I cant see any of these cameras really having any trouble. Bad luck seems to be a factor here surely. Two M.s packing up after a few hundred rolls???
 
I'm asking for advice...

Here's some advice: having looked at your photo blog you don't 'need' any specific type of camera for the photos you shoot, and I can't imagine how shooting pictures of your kids, your cat and local landscapes would put any Leica M camera under terminal stress. Maybe you're doing something wrong? Have you read the instruction manual? 😀
 
I'm asking for advice. I've never owned a Bessa. The Bessas (some) can mount M-mount lenses, the Nikons can't.

So what is more likely to go out, a Bessa VF or other part, or the Leica rewind jam?

Are Bessas light tight?
In terms of build quality, Bessas are good for the price (I have an R4A, and Leica M2 and M6). But in direct comparison they're nowhere near as solidly made as Leicas. So if Leicas are too flimsy for you, you really shouldn't go anywhere near a Bessa.
 
M6 rewind ...

M6 rewind ...

... as I remember, the M6 rewind crank can be replaced by the (Leicaflex) SL2 version. DAG should be able to do it.
 
I can't speak for M-mount bessas, I only have a Bessa-R and Leica M2. The rewinding on bessa-R is a real b--ch, loading for some reason (may be its just me) takes longer than with M2. It also definitely feels a lot less sturdy, but its a good camera considering its low price. May be other Bessas are besser, i don't know. I can't imagine that voigtländer will make you happy if leica doesn't.
 
@krosya - i should have said used M7! that said hexar RF prices have been going up. just recently one went for 1300 quid on crazybay. and there are not that many bodies going around. lenses are even rarer. konica marketing never did any justice to this camera. especially after it won european camera of the year -- 2000/01.
 
Sorry to ask Ted, but shouldnt this be posted in the CV section then?

I would guess that a Leica will outlive a Bessa at least 4 times and I can recall seeing one or two threads about the problem you describe with a M6. Remember that some of the M6´s is aprox 20 y.o and heavily used in all sorts of condition. If not CLA´d from time to time stuff like that happen. Im not trying to badmouth or talk down on Bessas here or anything, but I dont think they are built better than a Leica. At least it doesnt feel like that when you hold and use it.

Love your avatar btw 🙂

Who wants to put their MP a la Carte up against a R3M in a game of conkers? 😀

I honestly reckon ampguy has been unlucky with his Ms. a few hundred rolls of film for a camera in decent shape should be nothing. One hears about a fair few build and QC issues with Bessas (not that leicas are exempt) and I would expect a decent shape, serviced M6 to be the more reliable work horse with a lot of film pu through it and over the years. I could be wrong however.
 
Surely longevity is a good indication of build quality.

M2s and M3's are still changing hands almost weekly in the classifieds and in my opinion they cost damn all to repair or service. My M2 was CLA'd by Youxin Ye for $120.00 and he near totally rebuilt my very early doublestroke M3 including putting a replacement rangefinder mechanism in it for $250.00!

The only place you'll find Bessas, Ikons, Hexar RFs etc in fifty years time will be landfill sites ... and you'll need a long handled shovel because they'll be a long way down! 😛

I'm not saying this because I believe the M series are better cameras than the others I've mentioned ... I'm just a realist when it comes to aknowledging the importance of build quality in a camera. 🙂
 
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I could understand contemplating a Bessa over a Leica M if finances permited no other option, mother and father in jail, no job, problems with the IRS etc!

I can't think of too many other reasons though? 🙄
 
Dont know about Leica or other rf cameras, but I can tell you that my old Canon EOS 630 and RT have seen zillons of rolls of film and NEVER a problem. Zero. So, I really expect for Leica, Hexar and even Bessa do the same. With reasonable care most cameras can last a very long time even if used heavy.
 
Since M6s are out due to the widespread rewind crank problem, and since M2s and M3s are out due to being old and clunky and every single one of them will fog fast film, and since viewfinders are out because they aren't a pretty fashion accessory and they get stuck in your hair extensions, then I suggest you go with the M7 that you suggested to yourself in the first post. 😉
 
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Does CV make any good solid M mount bodies? The Leica's are just too old and cheaply made except for the M7. M6's and M4p's all break down in the rewind section and are thus overpriced.

The CL is too small, and I'm not sure if that CLE brings up the right framelines for say the 35/2 asph cron?

Maybe I just need another Hexar AF.

Stirring things up a little here, aren't you...?
 
Great thread Ted! 😉

Sounds like you are missing your noctilux and M6. I can see selling the noct, but once you sold the 75mm I knew you were beyond reason. Sell the hoard of F31fd's you have and get a MP or M7. 🙂

P.S. I'd let you check out my S2, which is a veritable tank, but RayPa already has dibs on it.
 
In order to have the 35mm bring up the 40mm framelines in a CLE you'd have to somehow add a bit of length to the small flange on the mount which activates the frameline selection mechanism. It would take some skill. Or perhaps mounts could be swapped with another 40mm or 50mm lens? I'm not a technician.

An easier alternative would be to find a 35mm screwmount lens you like (Leica did make some limited Summicron and Summilux screwmounts, or go for the Konica UC-Hexanon) and then use a 50mm screwmount adapter, which will bring up your 40mm framelines.
 
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