What's a soft, low contrast 35mm 400iso black and white film?

I don't know how low of contrast you're going to get with 400 ISO B&W film, most of the ones I've come across are on the higher end of contrast. Development style might be a better way to achieve what you're looking for, such as stand or semi-stand.
 
I'd suggest Ilford Hp5 through an uncoated/single coated lens and reducing developing times
 
The best way to get a retro look is to use old lenses, especially pre-WWII lenses since they are uncoated. Its not really possible to emulate that look using modern lenses, which render with quite high contrast. Even if you increase exposure and reduce developing time, the look with a modern lens still won't be the same.

Something you might try is a controlled fogging of the film. This involves exposing each frame twice (camera needs to be capable of multiple exposures to do this). Take the picture normally, with normal exposure. Then expose the frame a second time by covering the lens with a piece of white translucent plastic. An Expodisc works great for this. Set the exposure three or four stops under what the meter indicates (meter through the plastic...easiest if you use a camera with built in meter). Have the lens focused at infinity when you do this. The order you do this is not important; you can do the fogging exposure first if you want.

This technique works because uncoated lenses basically cause a slight veiling flare over the whole image, just like the slight fogging exposure does.
 
nintendo64lad said:
Any suggestions? Want a retro look.
Click to expand...

Some people complain that HP5+ is too low in contrast. I have not found that, but it all comes down to the amount of development. If it's just low contrast that you seek, maybe try HP5+ at ISO=200 and develop a bit less. But maybe you want blacker shadows in which case ISO=400 might work better.
Also, there are some posts about using filters to achieve an old style movie look.
Some "retro" photos are amazingly sharp because of the large format negatives used, but you probably don't want that.
 
I wouldn't call Delta 400 soft or low-contrast, but it does contain a lot more mids than something like Tri-X. To me, Delta feels a lot like 1970's B&W from the little I've shot with it.
 
Chriscrawfordphoto said:
The best way to get a retro look is to use old lenses, especially pre-WWII lenses since they are uncoated. Its not really possible to emulate that look using modern lenses, which render with quite high contrast. Even if you increase exposure and reduce developing time, the look with a modern lens still won't be the same.

Something you might try is a controlled fogging of the film. This involves exposing each frame twice (camera needs to be capable of multiple exposures to do this). Take the picture normally, with normal exposure. Then expose the frame a second time by covering the lens with a piece of white translucent plastic. An Expodisc works great for this. Set the exposure three or four stops under what the meter indicates (meter through the plastic...easiest if you use a camera with built in meter). Have the lens focused at infinity when you do this. The order you do this is not important; you can do the fogging exposure first if you want.

This technique works because uncoated lenses basically cause a slight veiling flare over the whole image, just like the slight fogging exposure does.
Click to expand...
Chris, do you have example images you could share using the ‘fogging’ technique with the Expodisc you described?
Thanks, Steve
 
Simple solutions:

Find an old Summar

or a much cheaper option

Smear a little something on an old UV filter. Vaseline used to be good for this.

Experiment with digital to save film!
 
Dralowid said:
Simple solutions:

Find an old Summar

or a much cheaper option

Smear a little something on an old UV filter. Vaseline used to be good for this.

Experiment with digital to save film!
Click to expand...

One of the problems with Vaseline is that it easily migrates.
 
nintendo64lad said:
Any suggestions? Want a retro look.
Click to expand...

Firstly you should really define what you mean by a retro look. My 22 years old acquaintance thinks everthing before she was born is retro.

For anything prior to the end of WWII you'd need an uncoated lens. That highlight bleeding and veiling flare can not easily be achieved any other way, that is the primary reason for the pictures appearing "soft".
For an even more retro look, you may also consider using a orthochromatic film like ILFORD Ortho Plus - but that is only 80 ISO. A cyan filter with a current 400 ISO conventional film will give a similar effect (a blue or green filter will probably be easier to source and the effect will be similar).

So my suggestion is:
1. If it has to be 400; use a conventional grain film like HP5+ or TriX and develop in a traditional developer (for example, Rodinal has been around forever).
2. Get a lens from the period you want to emulate.
3. For a early last century look, ad a cyan (or blue/green) filter.
 
Any film will do if you develop short. The longer the developing time, the more contrast you'll get. Just overexpose and develop short and you'll get the look you want.

Erik.
 
This is a long shot, but try a pre-war lens, plus Film Washi "Z". It is a near IR film, but if you do not use a 25A or stronger filter you can treat it as a hyper-panchromatic film, which was pretty common in the 30s and onwards. It says it is "moderate" contrast, but development could help that. It "light pipes", which occurs because it has no anti-halation layer, (see the data sheet) so you will get that general fogging effect that older films have.

It is pricey, and likely is not in reliable supply, so you would have to try it then buy emough for your needs while it is still available.

https://www.freestylephoto.biz/44603...Specialty-Film.
 
markjwyatt said:
This is a long shot, but try a pre-war lens, plus Film Washi "Z". It is a near IR film, but if you do not use a 25A or stronger filter you can treat it as a hyper-panchromatic film, which was pretty common in the 30s and onwards. It says it is "moderate" contrast, but development could help that. It "light pipes", which occurs because it has no anti-halation layer, (see the data sheet) so you will get that general fogging effect that older films have.

It is pricey, and likely is not in reliable supply, so you would have to try it then buy emough for your needs while it is still available.

https://www.freestylephoto.biz/44603...Specialty-Film.
Click to expand...

I have approx 5 rolls of the Washi Z in the fridge, waiting. The advice I’ve read is to disregard the first 4 or 5 frames, ie shoot blanks, due to the light piping during camera loading, but I won’t do that, just shoot as normal and if they’re duff so be it. I’ll have to read what’s recommended in terms of developer, dilution, times etc.
 
Ricoh said:
I have approx 5 rolls of the Washi Z in the fridge, waiting. The advice I’ve read is to disregard the first 4 or 5 frames, ie shoot blanks, due to the light piping during camera loading, but I won’t do that, just shoot as normal and if they’re duff so be it. I’ll have to read what’s recommended in terms of developer, dilution, times etc.
Click to expand...

Maybe load it in a dark bag if you are comfortable doing that. Do you intend to shoot it as an IR film (i.r., 25A, IR72, etc.) or just as it is?
 
markjwyatt said:
Maybe load it in a dark bag if you are comfortable doing that. Do you intend to shoot it as an IR film (i.r., 25A, IR72, etc.) or just as it is?
Click to expand...

Just as it is without any filters. I had planned to shoot using my FM3a which is far too valuable to guess in a dark bag - shutter blades are far too delicate and it comes with a warning not to touch.
 
Plain and simple Fomapan 100 and 400 gives rather flat (in my definition "dull") contrast, which probably can be a good starting point for you. Worth trying, especially since it's the cheapest film available..
 
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