What's the best method of.....

steve garza

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Aug 16, 2005
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loading film onto a reel? I do this using a dark bag. It's eady enough using a self loading reel, but the film always seems to bunch up on me causing great frustration and uneven developing. Are there any especially good reels or techniques?
 
with plastic reels they have to be bone dry to load film evenly. they also need very clean after last use(no residue of fixer or wash)
 
Do you use plastic or stainless reels?

I use stainless exclusively, and when/if trouble comes along I just un-reel a length of the troubling film and re-reel it until it is seated correctly. Sometimes this takes two or three times, but there is little harm in an extra minute spent loading.

With plastic (this is what I've heard from others, not personal experience), you need to make sure the reel and film are completely dry--even a few drops of moisture can screw up the entire loading process.

Better luck next time.
 
Plastic wheels are quite good for 135, but they just suck when you try to do 120 on them. I haven't used steel reels but i wonder whether a steel reel is "a different set of problems" or "the obvious solution".
 
I have used both and prefer steel. Plastic or steel can cause problems, but steel always seemed easier. They are certainly easier to dry. It is also eaiser to tell where any problems are if or as they occur. The way I learned to use steel tanks was with an extra roll of film. Do it several times with your eyes open, the several more times with your eyes closed, then again several times wherever you will normally change your good film. It seems like a lot of trouble but in the long run it is worth it. Once you get the hang of it and do a hundred rolls or so, it is just like riding a bike. And as far as using an otherwise good roll to practice with, that is cheaper than lost shots.
 
I've used both steel and plastic. I prefer steel. It's has a smoother load and less likely to bunch-up or get sticky in humid conditions. The only problem is if the sides of the reels are out of alignment. If you drop one, you might as well toss it in the trash.

Jonathan
 
Be it steel or plastic: It's like getting to Carnegie Hall, Practice, Practice, Practice. Obtain a length of film to use for practice in the light. Do it enough and it will become second nature.

I use steel exclusively with my roll film. One trick for 35mm that I use with those rolls that get tricky. I place the reel on edge and "roll" the reel by pushing about 3 to 4 inches of film at a time on to the roll.
 
wyk_penguin said:
Plastic wheels are quite good for 135, but they just suck when you try to do 120 on them. I haven't used steel reels but i wonder whether a steel reel is "a different set of problems" or "the obvious solution".

rolling 120 onto SS reels is unbelieveably easy. conceptually, it might not seem so, and you would think there would be a boatload of problems, but none of the issues that surround loading 35mm onto SS reels seem to exist with loading 120 onto SS reels. I learned b&w processing with 120 film, and have never had a roll damaged due to loading problems. 120 film is short, curls perfectly to the reel, and the SS 120 reels are solid and dang near indestructable. :)


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I use steel only. The key to smooth loading is when you are holding the film by the edges when loading it dont curl the film too much. It already has a natural curve to it. Just guide it onto the reel, hold it loosely by the edges and spin the reel with your other hand.
 
I've been using plastic. I didn't realize the necessity of dryness/cleanliness. Now that I realize it, I;ve been using both dirty and wet reels. I;ve tried steel but not practiced with it. Thanks for the input. I will redouble my efforts.
 
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