What's the nicest, small flash for a Yashica Electro 35 MC

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pixelatedscraps

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I bought my girlfriend a Yashica Electro 35 MC from Inaniwa Cameras in Osaka (she wanted something small and I didn't want her to be too freaked out without aperture-priority mode so she can learn on it). The camera itself is in gorgeous condition - pretty much brand new and I've just developed a roll of Tri-X in it and its all working as should be.

Problem is, the lens is a fairly slow 40/2.8 and I'd like to get her a flash for it. What's the nicest flash that you know of that can match with a camera as small as a chrome MC? (roughly the size of a Holga 135BC)


APP1686.jpg
 
I use Vivitar 2800 because it's only flash unit with PC cord I have, so this doesn't really help you. You probably already know MC fires at 1/30 only, when flash attached?
 
You can get around the slow flash sync speed 2 ways, the first is simply just plug in the cord to the PC socket halfway. If you look in the hole in the middle of the socket you'll see a small brass pin. This pin is pushed in by the plug when you attach the cord, the pin pushes in and connects a switch. If you don't fully insert the plug, the switch will not connect. Another thing you can do is take of the top cover and remove the pin entirely. Odds are that if you take off the cover, the pin will fall out on it's own.

I hope you have fun with the camera.
 
Frontman, I think I already have seen your remark on partial connection solving 1/30 issue. I tried it with 35MC another time and again, no luck. Is PC socket on 35MC same as on 35CC (I didn't find on Net any good picture of CC to see myself)? I'm attaching view of 35MC socket.
 

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btgc said:
Frontman, I think I already have seen your remark on partial connection solving 1/30 issue. I tried it with 35MC another time and again, no luck. Is PC socket on 35MC same as on 35CC (I didn't find on Net any good picture of CC to see myself)? I'm attaching view of 35MC socket.
Click to expand...

Edit: The switch is like that on a GX, which has the flash sync switch located in a different place. One would have to disconnect the correct wire from this switch to disable it. I may end up buying a MC next week, if I do I'll see what it takes to modify the switch.
 
Last edited:
Sorry, btgc is right. X-14 does't have PC cord nor socket. I thought it has one as the flashes of the same era usually have one.

Some GN14 class flash units from 70's are very small. They are almost the same size as a pack of cigarette, and as they use two AA batteries instead of four AA of GN20 class flashes, they are very light, too. And they usually have PC cord or socket. Sunpak's SP140 and Auto140 are very popular among them. National's PE-140 series seem a bit rare and difficult to find, but I see them occasionally in Japanese auction sites.

If usuing with a PC cord adapter is acceptable, a modern flash like Supak's PF20XD could be a good choice.
 
LunoLuno, you are damn right about small, 2 AA driven GN14 flashes. I carry one with Oly 35RC and space/weight savings outweight lack of power and tilting head.
 
Minolta Auto25 is very small: 4 1/8" tall, 2 3/8 " wide, 2 1/8 " front to back. On Auto setting ISO 400 is f 11. I don't have a manual so the auto distance is unknown. The only problem is that it is hot shoe only, it doesn't look like there is a hot shoe on this camera.
 
easyrider said:
f2.8 if not slow! Just get ASA 400 film and push it to 800. It will make better pix.
Click to expand...

It depends on what type of flash situation you have. For instance, fill flash (outdoors) you set you camera down 1.5-2 stops closed from the auto setting and use it as fill. Indoors you set you camera at the auto setting and use it, if you want some background you lower your shutter speed to get some ambient light into the scene (as shutter speed is not important when using flash). But when you want to do outdoor flash, say back-light then you have to have the lowest ISO film and the most powerful flash (especially if you are using a focal plane shutter, here leafs are better) you can have. Example; people in sunsets you want to use the auto setting at the indicated f stop and the adjust the shutter to achieve the background you want. It is tricky, usually manual flash is the most controlled, but you have to do math so most people give up and go digital SLR and get a ttl flash.
 
DNG said:
Olympus T20 (Low Profile with locking shoe)
Click to expand...

I've got this one already which she is using but it's still quite chunky when compared to the body. The Konica X14 looks perfect but I'm not sure if its going to work properly on the MC.

Sorry for the delay in replying - I was away in Singapore. Am reading up on all of the suggestions now! 🙂
 
I use a vivitar 255 (IIRC). GN20 (metric, ASA100), two AA batteries, small, two automatic positions. It uses a propietary plug to attach the sync wire to the flash so be sure to get the cable with the flash unit. I changed the socket in mine, but it is not something I would recomend to do!.

Javier
 
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