What's the steadiest 35mm to hand hold?

[Jamie123]

I would also go for the Rollei 35.

Interestingly, I find the shutter in my new Bessa III to be very similar to that of a Rollei 35 in regards to both noise and movement. I haven't pushed it to its limits yet but I suppose the weight of the camera together with the soft shutter would result in even slower useable speeds.

 

[Roger Hicks]

One of the best arguments I've seen is that RFs are easier to hold steady because of the offset eyepiece, allowing better support against the face of the photographer. The original Wrayflex was designed to be held 'upside down', with the back of the camera pressed against the forehead, though production cameras weren't that way.

My own suspicion is that continuous viewing matters a lot, because I can hold a Nikon F or even Nikkormat steadier when it has an optical viewfinder attached, and the Ilford Advocate (central finder, weird release) was very easy to hold steady too.

I don't know if I can hold anything steadier than an M -- I certainly didn't find the Rollei 35 particularly steady -- but Frances backs the ZI as slightly easier for her.

Cheers,

R.

 

[Dave Wilkinson]

Just had a PM from Shakin Stevens....says it has to be a leaf shutter - for him!

 

[Mephiloco]

I rarely shoot slower than 1/15th with anything. I get fine shots at 1/15th with my T90 as well as my m2, even my dslr at 50mm. I could probably get away with 1/8th on the t90 or m2, but I prefer not to risk it. 1/15th at 1.5 gets most stuff at iso 400. I'll take a stop of underexposure over a blurry pic anyways, or just push process the film or stand develop

 

[Trius]

Kuzano: The XA release is NOT too sensitive ... on all samples. A clean sample is capable of sharp results @ 1/4s:

http://www.decrepitoldfool.com/index.php/weblog/comments/atsp021205/
(not mine, from a close friend)

I have had sharp results with the XA @ 1/8. That said, I feel a bit more comfortable with the Olympus 35SP due to its mass. It's not a 35mm lens, though ... 42mm focal length.

 

[Roger Vadim]

I'd go for the Contax G2. electronic shutter, heavy enough, just make sure you've had your drink before tripping the shutter...

 

[ZeissFan]

My steadier cameras have been a Nikon F2A, a Zeiss Ikon Contarex Bullseye and a Rollei 35 (T, not that it matters).

I've been pretty good with most of the later folding Retinas (IIc/IIIc/IIIS) and a Zeiss Ikon Contax IIa.

I think that I had less hand tremor when I was younger.

 

[johannielscom]

I'd go for the Contax G2. electronic shutter, heavy enough, just make sure you've had your drink before tripping the shutter...

Niot withstainding the fact that it is a funny remark, I have found that it sometimes helps to have a drink before going out shooting.

I have shot sharp pictures with a Nikon D300 and Nikkor 135mm f2.0 DC lens, at 1/10th, more than once.

Most of the time, I manage 1/5th or 1/8th with a Leica, but at some days I suck at it. You need to be focussed, relaxed and very aware of your support, your breathing, etc. And, in your case Frank, you have get the model to really hold still as well.

YMMV.

 

[sanmich]

I would guess (only a guess from the feeling in my hands)

Hexar AF

Zero vibration, yet not tiny and easy to hold steady.

 

[Gary Sandhu]

If I can stretch it to 6x7, the steadiest camera I've handheld is my mamiya 7.

 

[charjohncarter]

Lots of great cameras, some I even have. But this is my best, and by far (wish they were all like this):

Petri 7s:

 

[Bob Michaels]

If I can stretch it to 6x7, the steadiest camera I've handheld is my mamiya 7.

I thought exactly the same thing about my Mamiya 7 but did not comment since it said 35mm. Here is one hand held at 1/15th. Trust me, the 10x12 print shows all in focus areas that do not have subject motion to be as sharp as you could ever want.

 

[ZeissFan]

With medium format, I've had good luck with the Zeiss Ikon Super Ikonta 532/16. A nice sturdy, well-balanced camera.

 

[gb hill]

Just had a PM from Shakin Stevens....says it has to be a leaf shutter - for him!

I got a bunch of "rockabilly" albums from Shakin Stevens!🙂

 

[gb hill]

Here is one from my Bessa L with 25/4 1/30 sec.

 

[johnny9fingers]

I've had my best luck with the Hexar AF.

 

[papasnap]

yeah I agree - I found with the Hexar AF I was able to get consistently good results at 1/15, below that it mostly depended on what state I was in!

I still give edge to my M7 though, especially in a nice grippy leather half case and with a soft release.

 

[oftheherd]

I am not as steady as I used to be. When I was younger, I found I could get good sharp photos with a Welta Welti, and with a Fujica ST 901 (yeah, I know). The 901 had dampening for the mirror which helped. When I was taking a lot of photos and my muscles were better trained, I could get surprisingly steady shots to 1/2 second.

As mentioned by others, The weight of and MF (in my case, the Mamiya Super Press 23) seemed to aid in steady shots. Since I don't photo as much, my muscles aren't as well trained to be steady. I suspect regardless of camera, 1/30 would be about it.

 

[Harlee]

If an exposure is going to be less than 1/30 or thereabouts, especially an available light shot at night, regardless of what camera I'm using, I focus, brace it against a pole or set it on a solid surface, set the self timer, and hold it solidly until the shutter trips. I've used that a sequence a number of times whether using my XA, XA2, GSN, GTN, MG-1, AFRF, or slr. When traveling internationally, I carry a very nice retractable tripod with me which I picked up in Yokohoma back in 1970 and still works like a charm. Unfortunately, it never gets through airport security without me having to show security what it is.

 

[gilpen123]

F2AS is the most steady 35 mm I handled except for the mirror slap it could beat any M for lowlight.