Mr G
Established
Hi all lovely people,
I'm scanning the last roll I developed and I keep seeing strange spots all over the frame...
To me it looks like it has to do with development rather than a camera issue, but I'd be glad if you could have a look at it and tell me what you think.
Ah..the spots seem to appear in a different position in each frame.
Thanks so much in advance.
g
I'm scanning the last roll I developed and I keep seeing strange spots all over the frame...
To me it looks like it has to do with development rather than a camera issue, but I'd be glad if you could have a look at it and tell me what you think.
Ah..the spots seem to appear in a different position in each frame.
Thanks so much in advance.
g
haempe
Well-known
Looks like air-bubbles.
What film, developer, agitation?
What film, developer, agitation?
ath
Well-known
Might also be water droplets hitting the drying film.
Mr G
Established
it's d76 and tri-x never had a problem with it...
This was a brand new batch of developer I just mixed before developing..mmm I wonder if it has something to do with that.
g
This was a brand new batch of developer I just mixed before developing..mmm I wonder if it has something to do with that.
g
haempe
Well-known
Powder developer should have some time to rest after mixing.
But I can't say if this is the problem. For me it looks like air-bubbles on the film during development.
Mr G
Established
haempe
Well-known
I had a similar experience some time ago and since then I take the "bumping the tank on the bottom after every agitation"-thing really seriously.
Mr G
Established
The second roll developed in the same tank doesn't show the same issue.
Maybe being on the bottom of the tank it didn't get affected by the bubbles..??
g
Maybe being on the bottom of the tank it didn't get affected by the bubbles..??
g
Sparrow
Veteran
... I always thought inversions would be likely to cause bubbles, so I don't
john neal
fallor ergo sum
Inversion shouldn't cause bubbles, but may cause "drag", especially around the sprocket holes - depends on your technique
bogelgelbo
RF student
I have this problem too if I use the fixer too many times.
Edit: I'm seeing the white spots on the sky and not noticing the bigger darker spots. Yes, my guess is also bubble spots.
Edit: I'm seeing the white spots on the sky and not noticing the bigger darker spots. Yes, my guess is also bubble spots.
tlitody
Well-known
could be drying marks or it could be bubbles. Visually check film very carefully. If its on surface of film its drying marks. If its in the film it could be bubbles but could be finger prints (oily deposits on film surface) which retard development. But also a strong possibility as already suggested, is developer which contains miniscule particles of chemical which isn't fully dissolved and have come to rest on film surface. That's why you should leave fresh mixed dev stock from powder for 24 hours before use or filter it before use if you must use it immediately. Those particles will dissolve in that time.
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Sparrow
Veteran
I have no proof, as I say, just a idea. Anyway; Personally I've managed without inversions for many years now it no longer matters
V
varjag
Guest
Test with your finger if emulsion is thicker in those spots. Sometimes you get coating defects which look just like that, although I don't remember ever seeing them on Tri-X.
kosta_g
Well-known
as a beginner in b&w developing, can I ask what you do use for agitation? just light shaking or swirling?
thanks
I have these "bubbles" some times but I thought it was water droplets not drying off properly, like my wetting agent wasn't working correctly...
(i did leave my developer for two days after mixing up a batch so it shouldn't be the powder)
Mr G
Established
Thanks so much for your replies!
Like someone said, I'm now quite positive it's air bubbles.
I've been dealing with water marks every now and then and they look different from what I have now...
On the negs the spots are literally exposed on the neg and not superficial, that's why I was worried about being a light leak...
Also next time I'll wait 24hrs before using the developer...I forgot to say this time I had a hard time getting the powder of d76 to dissolve properly.
cheers
g
Like someone said, I'm now quite positive it's air bubbles.
I've been dealing with water marks every now and then and they look different from what I have now...
On the negs the spots are literally exposed on the neg and not superficial, that's why I was worried about being a light leak...
Also next time I'll wait 24hrs before using the developer...I forgot to say this time I had a hard time getting the powder of d76 to dissolve properly.
cheers
g
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Leigh Youdale
Well-known
"Light shaking"? Ye gods!
There are many and varied methods but a good "standard" method is what Ilford recommend. I don't think "light shaking" is in there, anywhere.
The following agitation is recommended for spiral tank processing with ILFORD chemicals. Invert the tank four times during the first 10 seconds. Repeat these four inversions during the first 10 seconds of each subsequent minute of development. At the end of each agitation sequence tap the tank firmly on the work bench to dislodge any air bubbles which may be trapped in the processing spiral. This method of agitation should also be used with the fixer.
Drain off the developer 10 seconds before the end of the development time immediately fill the tank with the next process solution.
keithdunlop
www.keithdunlop.com
The white spots just look like normal dust, but the dark spots almost appear is if granules from the D-76 weren't fully dissolved and over-developed the film where they made contact. The air bubble theory is also a good one, but why would they be so concentrated in one edge of the frame like that?
I know that D-76 has to be mixed at a pretty high temp, so it's always a good idea to give it a day to come down, and make sure everything has been dissolved as well. If it were me, I would make another batch at the recommended mixing temperature, give it 24 hours to come down, and check that it's ALL dissolved before using. If the problem doesn't repeat, that might be your answer.
I know that D-76 has to be mixed at a pretty high temp, so it's always a good idea to give it a day to come down, and make sure everything has been dissolved as well. If it were me, I would make another batch at the recommended mixing temperature, give it 24 hours to come down, and check that it's ALL dissolved before using. If the problem doesn't repeat, that might be your answer.
haempe
Well-known
Nah, Keith. Partially over-development will give bright spots ...
I guess the spots are over the complete frame, but only visible in the uniform area of the heaven...
BobYIL
Well-known
Was the water hard? Sometimes the sulfite in the D-76 in hard water causes insoluble granules. I know also (while mixing the D-76 from formula) metol is very hard to dissolve once sulfite is dissolved first.
Better, let the solution wait some hours before using. In case of hard water used, just filter it with coffee filter and when you pour the developer in, tap the tank gently on the bench a few times against air bubbles.
Better, let the solution wait some hours before using. In case of hard water used, just filter it with coffee filter and when you pour the developer in, tap the tank gently on the bench a few times against air bubbles.