jky
Well-known
320 mostly, but I don't hesitate to shoot up to 1250 if needed. 320 is treated like 400 film so I'm just much more used to adjusting the settings when in manual @ this particular iso. Screws me up a bit when set to another speed & I become a bit of a Homer Simpson when reviewing images
Doh!
kittyphoto
Member
I like 320 it is the sweet spot between noise and sharpness.
Sharpness on 640 is a bit too soft for my taste.
I also like 1250 noise is less than 1600 iso film.
I always set 320 for day and 1250 for night.
Tend to skip 640.
Sharpness on 640 is a bit too soft for my taste.
I also like 1250 noise is less than 1600 iso film.
I always set 320 for day and 1250 for night.
Tend to skip 640.
ruslan
Established
Up to 2500 in a day time or night, regular shoot 160 iso with flash studio lighting.
figfoto
figfoto
160 daylight 640 for indoors. after software upgrade noticed much improved results with 640.
Photon42
burn the box
If I have time to think about ISO, I chose the the lowest possible. Otherwise, I take whatever is set
Seriously, if I think about it, I have the M8 on either 160 or AUTO-ISO - the latter pretty much replaced any high ISO number.
Actually, I don't find that noise is particularly film-like. If this is what I'm after, I use post processing or film ...
Actually, I don't find that noise is particularly film-like. If this is what I'm after, I use post processing or film ...
tmfabian
I met a man once...
I use the m8 at 1250 and 2500 most of the time for b+w work and 640 and 1250 for color stuff.
gDallasK
Member
I dislike noise in my colour landscape work so rarely stray above 320.
presspass
filmshooter
640 gives me enough speed to work indoors without flash and is slow enough to use outside without fiddling with ISO setting. Re Gabriel M.A.'s comment about 2500 being better in JPEG than RAW - thanks for the suggestion; I will try this. Any special Photoshop processing?
myM8yogi
Well-known
Tricky question. Gross generalisation:
160 for landscapes, slow exposures on a tripod, or any f/2 work in daylight. 360 for f/8 zone focus street shooting. 640 or 1250 for B+W portraits indoors. 2500 for a laugh - I need to work on my PP more if I am ever going to consider this setting usable.
I have to select one... so I'll go for ISO 360 as it's virtually indistinguishable from 160, giving arguably the best relative noise performance for the shutter speed in any given light.
160 for landscapes, slow exposures on a tripod, or any f/2 work in daylight. 360 for f/8 zone focus street shooting. 640 or 1250 for B+W portraits indoors. 2500 for a laugh - I need to work on my PP more if I am ever going to consider this setting usable.
I have to select one... so I'll go for ISO 360 as it's virtually indistinguishable from 160, giving arguably the best relative noise performance for the shutter speed in any given light.
Last edited:
jvan01
Established
160 outdoors
160 indoors
160 indoors
Symeon
Established
iso on M8
iso on M8
well, the 640 is actually 800 and the 320 is 400, I think. In color both iso look fine but in BW the 640 looks better, definitely. Even the 1250 can look ok in BW depending on the light conditions (especially in daylight). Being used to 400 iso TriX or HP5 in the old days I have no complaints.
regards,
Simon
iso on M8
well, the 640 is actually 800 and the 320 is 400, I think. In color both iso look fine but in BW the 640 looks better, definitely. Even the 1250 can look ok in BW depending on the light conditions (especially in daylight). Being used to 400 iso TriX or HP5 in the old days I have no complaints.
regards,
Simon
yanidel
Well-known
Whatever allows me not to go below 1/125th. I do mostly street photography so I use Auto Iso up to 640. As I like to shoot wide open, most of my day pictures are at 160 which I find wonderful with the M8.
I don't like the "1250" and find the 1600 R-D1 grain way better, similar to the 640 M8 grain.
2500 is unusable IMO unless you have to, that is below 1/8th.
I don't like the "1250" and find the 1600 R-D1 grain way better, similar to the 640 M8 grain.
2500 is unusable IMO unless you have to, that is below 1/8th.
helen.HH
To Light & Love ...
ruslan
Established
I found that I'm using more and more jpeg 1250iso in B&W, instead of RAW, even in daylight.
dan denmark
No Get Well cards please
this has been one of the more interesting info threads on this forum of late. i am curious if there is a parralel to ISO settings on the RD1S? or perhaps a thread which addresses this? i am not on RFF often enough to read all the new threads so i don't know if this has alrady been covered...(although i did enjoy the "reading RFF over breakfast" syndrome thread, very amusing and true of many of us...i read RFF over my first coffee sometimes while i am waiting for the dog to wake up for his walk).
-dd
-dd
cmdrfire
Member
For most street B&W I've been using 320, and adding a bit more grain in post if I have to (never used to like grainy pictures 'til I started shooting with the M8...). I took some shots at 160 the other day and found I didn't like it as much as I did 320, things seemed too "smooth" if that makes sense.
johnastovall
Light Hunter - RIP 2010
640 nice film like look. It also works well for Alien Skin Exposure B&W post processing.
johannielscom
Snorting silver salts
I've just come from the D300 in digital, and that camera was a stellar performer at speeds up to 1600 ISO.
I'm still clinging to the looks of that clean sensor, so I voted 160.
Nice poll though! Gets you thinking on a lot of issues and I definitely will try some other ISOs after reading all your replies.
You have to love RFF for all the possibilities offered to ones own photography when conversing with fellow shooters who have other opinions and beliefs.
Thanks to the OP and all respondents!
I'm still clinging to the looks of that clean sensor, so I voted 160.
Nice poll though! Gets you thinking on a lot of issues and I definitely will try some other ISOs after reading all your replies.
You have to love RFF for all the possibilities offered to ones own photography when conversing with fellow shooters who have other opinions and beliefs.
Thanks to the OP and all respondents!
footnoteblog
Member
Whatever works?
If Capa took the soldier photo with a Phase One, and post-processed it with HDR and Alien Skin from the future, would the image be any better?
pontificating on minutae == missing the point
If Capa took the soldier photo with a Phase One, and post-processed it with HDR and Alien Skin from the future, would the image be any better?
pontificating on minutae == missing the point
Ron (Netherlands)
Well-known
320 for B/W 160 color
Share:
-
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.