pizzahut88
Well-known
How do you get your Zikon pics online?
What's your workflow, equipment, software?
Any tips on maximizing quality, color, etc?
Here's my work:
1. Zeiss Ikon takes picture (duh
)
2. Develop film at the local store,
3. Minolta Dimage Dual Scan IV at 3,200 dpi into 16bit tif, batch scan.
4. Photoshop CS, crop, color balance, contrast, levels, hue, etc.
4(1). Sometimes Nikon NX is used.
5. Upload to Blogger or to the store for printing.
Cheers, Manfred.
My gallery: http://viking-manfred.blogspot.com/
What's your workflow, equipment, software?
Any tips on maximizing quality, color, etc?
Here's my work:
1. Zeiss Ikon takes picture (duh
)2. Develop film at the local store,
3. Minolta Dimage Dual Scan IV at 3,200 dpi into 16bit tif, batch scan.
4. Photoshop CS, crop, color balance, contrast, levels, hue, etc.
4(1). Sometimes Nikon NX is used.
5. Upload to Blogger or to the store for printing.
Cheers, Manfred.
My gallery: http://viking-manfred.blogspot.com/
kshapero
South Florida Man
pizzahut88 said:How do you get your Zikon pics online?
What's your workflow, equipment, software?
Any tips on maximizing quality, color, etc?
Here's my work:
1. Zeiss Ikon takes picture (duh
2. Develop film at the local store,
3. Minolta Dimage Dual Scan IV at 3,200 dpi into 16bit tif, batch scan.
4. Photoshop CS, crop, color balance, contrast, levels, hue, etc.
4(1). Sometimes Nikon NX is used.
5. Upload to Blogger or to the store for printing.
Cheers, Manfred.
My gallery: http://viking-manfred.blogspot.com/
Sounds good. I might add that I scan at 4800 dpi into a tiff file then I PS the file and save as a JPEG. I get a nice clean 7-8 meg file. BTW, I use vuescan as the scanning software.
matthyx
Newbie
I use Vuescan as well, and a Nikon Coolscan V.
back alley
IMAGES
shoot pics
develope film myself
scan with canon 2710
work on scan in photoshop 7 (like i did in the wet darkroom before)
save as large file tiff for printing &
save as smll file jpg for web use
email file to the lab and pick up prints the next day
develope film myself
scan with canon 2710
work on scan in photoshop 7 (like i did in the wet darkroom before)
save as large file tiff for printing &
save as smll file jpg for web use
email file to the lab and pick up prints the next day
Nachkebia
Well-known
1 - shoot
2 - develope myself (BW) slide to lab
3 - scan with nikon coolscan 5000 small files around 1200 pixels
4 - photoshop, curve it a bit if needed make it 700 pixels save for web
5 - choose the once need to be printed
6 - scan big file and print in lab
7 - soon I will be enlarging myself
2 - develope myself (BW) slide to lab
3 - scan with nikon coolscan 5000 small files around 1200 pixels
4 - photoshop, curve it a bit if needed make it 700 pixels save for web
5 - choose the once need to be printed
6 - scan big file and print in lab
7 - soon I will be enlarging myself
willie_901
Veteran
My Workflow
o B&W
1/ Develop/Dry/Cut
2/ Scan with Cannon 9950F using CanoScan driver: 1200 ppi, 48 bit color, auto frame and tone selection, .tif format
3/ Import scans into LightRoom; each film roll becomes a LightRoom Folder
4/ In LightRoom, convert to monochrome, and make quick contrast/levels adjustments
5/ Manually scan "keeper" frames using SilverFast AI driver: 4800 or 2400 ppi, 48 bit ,HDR color; no auto settings; .tif format
6/ Import hi-res scans into LightRoom "Shoot" and convert to monochrome
7/ store negatives in a bound notebook
8/ Edit in LightRoom: adjust contrast, etc. as needed, crop, add keywords, add ratings, sort into my LightRoom "Collections"
9/ As needed, repair spots or other blemishes in LightRoom
10/ Export from LightRoom for FLICKR photostream
o Color
1/ Lab develops film, cuts negatives and scans to CD as 2940 x 1960, 400 ppi, RGB colorspace jpegs (cost - $7.88 incl. taxes)
2/ follow steps 2 - 10 in B&W flow without monochrome conversion; also manual hi-res scans must be inverted using PS
3/ store CD
o Back Up files weekly on external HD
o Printing
Before printing, the image file may be recropped and more carefully adjusted using LightRoom. Then I send all printing to my lab as 500 ppi jpegs. I either take a CD to the lab or I upload jpeg file to their web site.
I am looking into local alternate printing options for electronic files that can provide higher quality prints and paper.
I am fortunate to have a great Lab nearby. I spend very little time scanning color film. My initial B&W scanning is highly automated and takes about 30-50 minutes (unattended). Rescanning the keeper frames does take more screen time. I usually scan and edit in parallel which improves efficiency.
willie
o B&W
1/ Develop/Dry/Cut
2/ Scan with Cannon 9950F using CanoScan driver: 1200 ppi, 48 bit color, auto frame and tone selection, .tif format
3/ Import scans into LightRoom; each film roll becomes a LightRoom Folder
4/ In LightRoom, convert to monochrome, and make quick contrast/levels adjustments
5/ Manually scan "keeper" frames using SilverFast AI driver: 4800 or 2400 ppi, 48 bit ,HDR color; no auto settings; .tif format
6/ Import hi-res scans into LightRoom "Shoot" and convert to monochrome
7/ store negatives in a bound notebook
8/ Edit in LightRoom: adjust contrast, etc. as needed, crop, add keywords, add ratings, sort into my LightRoom "Collections"
9/ As needed, repair spots or other blemishes in LightRoom
10/ Export from LightRoom for FLICKR photostream
o Color
1/ Lab develops film, cuts negatives and scans to CD as 2940 x 1960, 400 ppi, RGB colorspace jpegs (cost - $7.88 incl. taxes)
2/ follow steps 2 - 10 in B&W flow without monochrome conversion; also manual hi-res scans must be inverted using PS
3/ store CD
o Back Up files weekly on external HD
o Printing
Before printing, the image file may be recropped and more carefully adjusted using LightRoom. Then I send all printing to my lab as 500 ppi jpegs. I either take a CD to the lab or I upload jpeg file to their web site.
I am looking into local alternate printing options for electronic files that can provide higher quality prints and paper.
I am fortunate to have a great Lab nearby. I spend very little time scanning color film. My initial B&W scanning is highly automated and takes about 30-50 minutes (unattended). Rescanning the keeper frames does take more screen time. I usually scan and edit in parallel which improves efficiency.
willie
traveller
Learning how to print
Developing the film (B/W)
Making a index print
Enlarging the negs I like
Scanning the print(s) (Vuescan, calibrated with IT8-Target)
Comparing and adjusting contrast and sharpness
Making a index print
Enlarging the negs I like
Scanning the print(s) (Vuescan, calibrated with IT8-Target)
Comparing and adjusting contrast and sharpness
kshapero
South Florida Man
I might add when I post to smugmug and other sites, I save as a JPEG 8 file which is about 1.3 megs. Prints at 18 x 24 beautifully.kshapero said:
Here's my work:
1. Zeiss Ikon takes picture (yup!)
2. Develop film at the local store,
3. Local store provides CD with 6.1 Mp JPEG scans, no prints
4. GraphicConverter, crop, rotate, skew, color balance, levels, hue, spot, etc.
5. Scale to 798 pixels on the long side for RFF and to 510 pixels wide for Photo.net, sliding JPEG compression to keep under 150K for RFF and under 100K for Photo.net, Save for Web. May also Save full size file for printing at the lab.
1. Zeiss Ikon takes picture (yup!)
2. Develop film at the local store,
3. Local store provides CD with 6.1 Mp JPEG scans, no prints
4. GraphicConverter, crop, rotate, skew, color balance, levels, hue, spot, etc.
5. Scale to 798 pixels on the long side for RFF and to 510 pixels wide for Photo.net, sliding JPEG compression to keep under 150K for RFF and under 100K for Photo.net, Save for Web. May also Save full size file for printing at the lab.
FanMan
Established
Currently I'm thinking about changing my workflow for B&W - since I like B&W more and more
Now: Ilford XP2, developed at local lab, prints from local lab
Perhaps: Classic B&W film (HP5+), develop myself, scan negs, check them at screen, prints from local foto store for the pictures I like most
Reason:
1) according to the information I got, it seems more easy than I thought to develop B&W - e.g. I don't have to have a dark room => basic equipment is less than 200 EUR
2) a scanner is not so expensive as I thought, e.g. the EPSON 4490 is less than 200 EUR
Now: Ilford XP2, developed at local lab, prints from local lab
Perhaps: Classic B&W film (HP5+), develop myself, scan negs, check them at screen, prints from local foto store for the pictures I like most
Reason:
1) according to the information I got, it seems more easy than I thought to develop B&W - e.g. I don't have to have a dark room => basic equipment is less than 200 EUR
2) a scanner is not so expensive as I thought, e.g. the EPSON 4490 is less than 200 EUR
mfogiel
Veteran
I do this:
1-shoot film - B&W 98% of the time, Acros, Neopan 400 or Agfa Scala are my favourites
2- now I develop myself, trying out Rodinal Special and Prescysol EF
3- scan on CS9000 @4000 DPI, eliminate the ugly shots (that is most of them ...), if the film is a bit curved, the best shots get rescanned int the MF glass film holder for max flatness
4- edit in PS, save as 16bit TIFF, reduce to 1600 pixel long JPEG and save for flickr
5- some shots get printed on Epson R2400, on Ilford Gold Fiber Silk (kind of glossy), or Hahnemuehle Photo Rag (mattè)
FanMan - if I can suggest something: if you were not shorthanded when buying the best 85mm lens in the world, you should not save on the scanner either. Get the best one you can lay your hands on.
1-shoot film - B&W 98% of the time, Acros, Neopan 400 or Agfa Scala are my favourites
2- now I develop myself, trying out Rodinal Special and Prescysol EF
3- scan on CS9000 @4000 DPI, eliminate the ugly shots (that is most of them ...), if the film is a bit curved, the best shots get rescanned int the MF glass film holder for max flatness
4- edit in PS, save as 16bit TIFF, reduce to 1600 pixel long JPEG and save for flickr
5- some shots get printed on Epson R2400, on Ilford Gold Fiber Silk (kind of glossy), or Hahnemuehle Photo Rag (mattè)
FanMan - if I can suggest something: if you were not shorthanded when buying the best 85mm lens in the world, you should not save on the scanner either. Get the best one you can lay your hands on.
FanMan
Established
mfogiel said:
Your arguments seems to be wright. But I do not want to go fully to digital (scanning and printing). Main interest would be in developing B&W by myself. Scanner would be only used as a device to produce an index print (contact sheet) and to separate the negs that are then to be printed by my local lab. Due to limits of space I will not have a darkroom.
mfogiel
Veteran
FanMan, It is true that a very well made silver print is still difficult to beat, but only if it is a VERY WELL MADE print, and not too big either... I suggest you go to see some high quality inkjet prints made on a good paper like one of the two mentioned above. Lot's of "fine art" photographers prefer it to silver output by now. I certainly would not consider darkroom anymore, for me the advantage is tiny and the hassle quite big. There was a story lately, that David Bailey has "caused" a new output technique: silver gelatine machine prints from digital files, so the darkroom advantage is really limited to the print medium, not any longer to the technique itself.
skahde
V for Victory!
Yesterday it went like...
Take exposed film from 10k kilometer journey
Spool in film and load automated processor
Fill solutions into processor
Start processor
Come back an hour later to find out processor did not pump developer on the film because of a cracked sealing but the fixing worked just brilliant.
Throw clear film strips into big black trash bin
Have a beer,
tell wife what happened,
get ignored by wife,
have another beer,
watch tv,
have third beer,
fall asleep on sofa with the tv on,
Wake up next morning with strange but not quite unfamiliar feeling on tongue.
Prepare for the day.
Think about letting the processor go the same route like the film strips.
Decide otherwise, look up number of local support and order replacement sealings (still available, wow!).
Decide to Hand-develop remaining rolls from above journey.
To be continued...
Stefan
Take exposed film from 10k kilometer journey
Spool in film and load automated processor
Fill solutions into processor
Start processor
Come back an hour later to find out processor did not pump developer on the film because of a cracked sealing but the fixing worked just brilliant.
Throw clear film strips into big black trash bin
Have a beer,
tell wife what happened,
get ignored by wife,
have another beer,
watch tv,
have third beer,
fall asleep on sofa with the tv on,
Wake up next morning with strange but not quite unfamiliar feeling on tongue.
Prepare for the day.
Think about letting the processor go the same route like the film strips.
Decide otherwise, look up number of local support and order replacement sealings (still available, wow!).
Decide to Hand-develop remaining rolls from above journey.
To be continued...
Stefan
lshofstra
Established
1 Shoot (although not much more than testshots so far)
2 Develop myself, currently Rollei Retro100=Agfa APX100 in Rodinal
3 Sometimes scan by way of contactprints, low resolution, Epson 4870
4 Develop in darkroom, favourite paper: Ilford warmtone
5 Tone with selenium
Does that make me the first wet printer in this thread?
Cheers
2 Develop myself, currently Rollei Retro100=Agfa APX100 in Rodinal
3 Sometimes scan by way of contactprints, low resolution, Epson 4870
4 Develop in darkroom, favourite paper: Ilford warmtone
5 Tone with selenium
Does that make me the first wet printer in this thread?
Cheers
FanMan
Established
skahde said:
You should know: the level of ignorance decreases significantly if you give information on gear acquisition costs
or as I have read here in the forum: "my only fear is that after my death my wife will sell my gear for the price I told her I've paid for it"
peripatetic
Well-known
FanMan said:
Ha, that's hysterical. I almost read that out to my wife... then I thought better of it.
My proposed workflow (my ZI is scheduled to arrive around month-end when my brother in-law goes to Tokyo)..
1. Shoot
2. Develop and low res scan to CD my local lab does either C41 or BW for around £8.
3. Import to Lightroom.
4. High res scan on Nikon Coolscan V for the best shots.
5. Print
a) Output to Flickr
b) Up to A4 at home.
c) Larger than A4 at my local lab.
d) Add to photobook and print book in due course (blurb).
Basically the same as my 5D except for the process and scan bit.