Where to purchase 34 mm filters for the CV Heliar 40?
- Thread starter hap
- Start date
- Latest activity Latest activity:
- Replies: Replies 44
- Views: Views 2K
hap
Well-known
what is the thread pitch on the CV Heliar 40mm? .5 or .75
maddoc
... likes film again.
I use a Heliopan step-up ring 34 to 37mm and 37mm filter. Serves as a small lens hood, too.
Godfrey
somewhat colored
I have eight different green filters in order to fit different lens' thread sizes. I assure you that, while green is green, green filters vary quite a lot. And there's also "yellow-green" as a filter type...
Which is why it's important to test filters, just like it's important to test everything else.
G
I went with a 34 to 43mm step ring since I have some Heliopan 43mm already.
They are $5 at B&H with free shipping.
They also have 37mm for the same price.
43mm is not *that* oversized...almost exactly the same diameter as the Voigt hood. Voigt cap will not fit over it.
Also, A36 filters will NOT fit this lens.
They are $5 at B&H with free shipping.
They also have 37mm for the same price.
43mm is not *that* oversized...almost exactly the same diameter as the Voigt hood. Voigt cap will not fit over it.
Also, A36 filters will NOT fit this lens.
Ororaro
Well-known
The
The B+W and Hoya conventions are well defined and easy to understand. Generallly between those two brands the shades of color will differ, however their chroma response will stay the same. Yes, the good old yellow-green is at the start of the green spectrum. BW’s naming convention is quite simple going
from 8 to 25, then you have the minus-red, minus-blue, and so on. The old Wratten convention were also very easy to understand but not for the newer generation. The Hoya X naming schene is also very essy to understand. Although BW’s and Hoyas color shades are quite different, they still work on the same badic principle and will give same results.
The scientific reason behind that basically is because one color is one color. For example Green can never act as red, and yet you seem to imply that in your hands they vary greatly, and that’s why I was curious by your testing methods and results.
There is also film type, and their respective formulations. I’ve been down that rabbithole quite deeply. Each film type don’t Dont necessarily match. For example tmx is not as sensible to yellow as much as fp4. Each film has its own spectral response.
I’ve been down that endless rabbithole. Nothing is simple down there, except one thing: colors act the same. Green will act as green, red as red…
I have eight different green filters in order to fit different lens' thread sizes. I assure you that, while green is green, green filters vary quite a lot. And there's also "yellow-green" as a filter type...
Which is why it's important to test filters, just like it's important to test everything else.
G
The B+W and Hoya conventions are well defined and easy to understand. Generallly between those two brands the shades of color will differ, however their chroma response will stay the same. Yes, the good old yellow-green is at the start of the green spectrum. BW’s naming convention is quite simple going
from 8 to 25, then you have the minus-red, minus-blue, and so on. The old Wratten convention were also very easy to understand but not for the newer generation. The Hoya X naming schene is also very essy to understand. Although BW’s and Hoyas color shades are quite different, they still work on the same badic principle and will give same results.
The scientific reason behind that basically is because one color is one color. For example Green can never act as red, and yet you seem to imply that in your hands they vary greatly, and that’s why I was curious by your testing methods and results.
There is also film type, and their respective formulations. I’ve been down that rabbithole quite deeply. Each film type don’t Dont necessarily match. For example tmx is not as sensible to yellow as much as fp4. Each film has its own spectral response.
I’ve been down that endless rabbithole. Nothing is simple down there, except one thing: colors act the same. Green will act as green, red as red…
Godfrey
somewhat colored
If you were interested in my testing methods and results ... well, you didn't ask me anything about them.
Obviously, I didn't mean to say that a green filter acted like a red filter: that would be foolish.
Since I have filters from five or six different manufacturers, doing a comprehensive filter comparison is a hefty bit of work, without even considering different films. Not everyone has only Hoya and B+W filters.
G
hap
Well-known
It turns out that my quandry for the filters is (for the near future) off the table.
KEH sent me the CV Heliar LTM nicely packaged , even with the hood screwed in. However, the hood cannot be unscrewed. It is being returned. I will have to wait a log time for another one that isn't 550$ or more these days brand new and even on ebay.
KEH sent me the CV Heliar LTM nicely packaged , even with the hood screwed in. However, the hood cannot be unscrewed. It is being returned. I will have to wait a log time for another one that isn't 550$ or more these days brand new and even on ebay.
Coldkennels
Barnack-toting Brit.
If you haven't already sent it back... you might not need to.
If the 40mm Heliar is anything like the earlier 21mm Color Skopar, the problem might be the hood itself. Trying to force the hood off just bends it out of shape, making it near-impossible to remove. The key is to be surprisingly gentle and even with it - any force that may contort the hood even slightly will cause it to bind.
hap
Well-known
I did send it back and I started with even force . I suspect someone, perhaps the previous owner cross threaded when used. I decided this was KEH's issue. I have to admit KEH consumer service is pretty darn good.
thanks for the suggestion.
too bad. keh is definitely tops, they aren't perfect (who is?) but they always make it right.
D
Deleted member 65559
Guest
Exactly..... a rubber band around the circumference allows for a light grip..... or a gently cupped hand over the front of the lens, worked for me every time.
Alpsman
Well-known
This is not an exact answer to your specific question, but here is a list of filter threads.
Scroll down to "Filtergewinde"
But according to this list, a 40mm thread only has a 0.5mm pitch.
But some people cook up their own soup.
The safest method is still to measure the thread with a thread template.
Malcolm M
Well-known
Would it be possible to swap the glass from an A36 filter into a 34mm UV mount? 34mm UV filters are readily available- Jack the Hat lists them.
Alpsman
Well-known
@ Malcolm M:
A lot is "possible" ;-)
It depends on how the filter is mounted in the ring.
Is it glued in, is it mounted with a snap ring or is it mounted with a threaded ring.
Can the filter glass be removed without causing damage?
If the filter is glued in, it will probably not be possible to remove it without causing damage. Or you could heat it up with a hairdryer, as many adhesives then become soft.
Otherwise: remove the filter glass, mark a 1 mm ring from the edge with a pen and sand it off. If it is made of glass, sand it carefully and cool it well. If it is made of plastic, make sure it does not melt.
Stick an adhesive film on both sides of the filter glass to avoid scratches.
I would try it at least.
You only learn by trying.
And if you have enough filters lying around...
And it depends on how much the right filter would cost. Some filters have fantasy prices, so it is worth sacrificing another one.
Here
rangefinderforum.com
I sawed, filed, grindes with a Dremel an fine tuned with a grindingstone the lens of old eyeglass to fit a machined ring for a Nikon eye correction lens and glued it in with Superglue.
A lot is possible.
A lot is "possible" ;-)
It depends on how the filter is mounted in the ring.
Is it glued in, is it mounted with a snap ring or is it mounted with a threaded ring.
Can the filter glass be removed without causing damage?
If the filter is glued in, it will probably not be possible to remove it without causing damage. Or you could heat it up with a hairdryer, as many adhesives then become soft.
Otherwise: remove the filter glass, mark a 1 mm ring from the edge with a pen and sand it off. If it is made of glass, sand it carefully and cool it well. If it is made of plastic, make sure it does not melt.
Stick an adhesive film on both sides of the filter glass to avoid scratches.
I would try it at least.
You only learn by trying.
And if you have enough filters lying around...
And it depends on how much the right filter would cost. Some filters have fantasy prices, so it is worth sacrificing another one.
Here
Eye correction lens replica for Nikon F, F2 and all other cameras with M 19 x 0.75 mm thread.
Since these eye correction lenses are a bit difficult to find, at least usually not in the right strength, and they often charge high prices for them, I decided to recreate them.The ring itself is a simple turned part. My thought was to use the lenses from those dirt cheap reading glasses. So I...
rangefinderforum.com
A lot is possible.
For modern glass I prefer modern multicoated filter glass. So I wouldn't bother with an A36 conversion.
aw614
Established
Damn, thanks for the explanation on the 21mm Color Skopar hood. That explains why I could never take the hood off mine and just gave up and left it on.
Coldkennels
Barnack-toting Brit.
It still catches me out from time to time when I want to remove it to put a filter on. I just picked up mine and tried to remove the hood as an experiment - it took me three tries to remove it instead of unscrewing the lens!
I do love Voigtlander's lenses but every so often I run into something like this and wonder how on earth no one realised there was an issue.
aw614
Established
I just took a look at my 21mm, and its so strange and counter to the usual way of unscrewing a lens hood, but using your method, the hood came out without an issue. Thanks again.
Malcolm M
Well-known
And with a nod to Alpsman's reply to my post quoted, the answer is "No." The glass from Leica A36 filters will not fit either a Kood or SRB 34mm screw mount.