Ranchu
Veteran
Figure out what lens(es) you want to use, first.
Skiff
Well-known
+1.
I've used so much different 35mm cameras over the last decades. But the Nikon F6 is by far the best.
And it fits perfectly for the original poster:
- excellent metering
- very precise, self-calibrating shutter
- can be used with a huge variety of different lenses
- not only excellent AF, but also excellent manual focus capabilities (better than most MF cameras)
- extremely solid
- works excellent in cold weather (just use lithium batteries or lithium rechargeable batteries or Panasonic Eneloops)
- it is still in production, so you even can get a new one with full guarantee which will serve you perfectly for the rest of your life
- it is a "once in a lifetime" camera.
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De_Corday
Eternal Student
I know this is way off topic, forgive me, but this past winter I was on assignment in North Dakota at roughly 20 below with my trusty D700 and was amazed that the ENEL4 battery (I was shooting gripped) actually lasted a whole day. Whatever magic is in modern batteries is truly impressive.
PKR
Veteran
Li-Ion batteries will work pretty well in cold temps.
When I was working at -20 I kept the camera under my parka until I was ready to photograph. I was taking pictures of buildings owned by my client. I scouted and then photographed when the sun was right, so I was only out in that cold for an hour or two.
I had Eveready Alkaline cells in the MD4 and didn't run the motor. So the 8-AA cells only powered the camera electronics.
https://www.physicsforums.com/threads/effect-of-freezing-on-lithium-ion-batteries.345524/
Dogman
Veteran
The Nikon F3 did have a very accurate metering system but....
Just to present an alternate view, I was one of the early adopters of the F3. Mine was the most disappointing camera I've ever owned and it led to my eventual migration away from Nikon products. Prior to the F3, I had used F and F2 models for years and had full faith in Nikon's first pro model with an electronic shutter. But I was quickly disappointed. Mine would not operate under damp conditions due to poor seals. Even a light mist caused it to shut down. I sent it to Nikon Professional Services multiple times but they could never make it reliable. Their only suggestion was that I buy a newly introduced F3P--a model specifically built with extra weather seals and to be sold only to professionals through NPS. They let me use one and, yes, it was a totally reliable--something I felt the standard F3 should have been but wasn't.
Subsequent F3 models were better sealed and better built. Be sure you're not getting one of the early models. Those first F3's did not have the High Eyepoint prism so be wary of those.
Axel
singleshooter
+1
Which battery to choose is not the first, second and third question and it surely doesn´t depend
on the camera brand and type
chrism
Well-known
Hi Philip,
An aperture priority SLR with manual focus? I agree that you want to figure out which brand of lenses you want before deciding on a body. I'll reference only those cameras in my possession here.
Probably the best quality/price ratio comes with Pentax lenses and manual focus lenses are very cheap nowadays. But you run into trouble with the bodies - the ME Super is very nice but it's hard to find a reliable one. I went through a couple when my original 1980's model died and neither worked for long. The K2 is great, but bigger and heavier. No exposure lock if that matters, as it does to Murray. The early AF cameras had an AE lock, such as the SF1/SFX/PZ-1, and can be used with manual lenses if you don't mind using the AF to confirm focus as they didn't come with microprisms etc. Perhaps the LX had AE lock, but it's expensive and there are mutterings about there being no parts left for repairs. Unless you find one cheaply, there's no need to go as modern as the MZ-S and it's fellows.
While I like the F6 as a body, it is bigger than older cameras, a lot more expensive and, well, you have to be careful with Nikon lenses. There are some I just don't bother trying to use wide open. You do get spoiled by Leica lenses! The FM3a is a lovely camera, costing a bit more than other manual Nikons, but relatively young. It does have an AE lock.
My new favourite is the OM-2n, simply because using it is such a joy. It makes me want to take more photos so I can use it more! I know it's silly, but having confidence in the tool makes me feel as if I can do a better job. No AE lock, but very good lenses and relatively cheap for the most part. The viewfinder is bigger and brighter than the F6 (BTW, so is that in the ME Super), but the camera is tiny and light. I don't have an OM-4, and perhaps those recommending it are right in that it has some clever metering tricks, but I'm stupid in that I don't like the look of it as much as the OM-1 or OM-2, which I had an unrequited love for at an impressionable age.
There are so many other choices out there, and it will be fun for you to pick up almost anything and a lens of your favourite length and give it a whirl.
Chris
An aperture priority SLR with manual focus? I agree that you want to figure out which brand of lenses you want before deciding on a body. I'll reference only those cameras in my possession here.
Probably the best quality/price ratio comes with Pentax lenses and manual focus lenses are very cheap nowadays. But you run into trouble with the bodies - the ME Super is very nice but it's hard to find a reliable one. I went through a couple when my original 1980's model died and neither worked for long. The K2 is great, but bigger and heavier. No exposure lock if that matters, as it does to Murray. The early AF cameras had an AE lock, such as the SF1/SFX/PZ-1, and can be used with manual lenses if you don't mind using the AF to confirm focus as they didn't come with microprisms etc. Perhaps the LX had AE lock, but it's expensive and there are mutterings about there being no parts left for repairs. Unless you find one cheaply, there's no need to go as modern as the MZ-S and it's fellows.
While I like the F6 as a body, it is bigger than older cameras, a lot more expensive and, well, you have to be careful with Nikon lenses. There are some I just don't bother trying to use wide open. You do get spoiled by Leica lenses! The FM3a is a lovely camera, costing a bit more than other manual Nikons, but relatively young. It does have an AE lock.
My new favourite is the OM-2n, simply because using it is such a joy. It makes me want to take more photos so I can use it more! I know it's silly, but having confidence in the tool makes me feel as if I can do a better job. No AE lock, but very good lenses and relatively cheap for the most part. The viewfinder is bigger and brighter than the F6 (BTW, so is that in the ME Super), but the camera is tiny and light. I don't have an OM-4, and perhaps those recommending it are right in that it has some clever metering tricks, but I'm stupid in that I don't like the look of it as much as the OM-1 or OM-2, which I had an unrequited love for at an impressionable age.
There are so many other choices out there, and it will be fun for you to pick up almost anything and a lens of your favourite length and give it a whirl.
Chris
charjohncarter
Veteran
I have 3 SLR bodies that all work with aperture priority: Pentax P3n (2 bodies), Pentax SFn1, and Pentax ZX-5 (which I wouldn't recommend). The 'F' 'A' 'AF' all work in AP with these bodies. I bought a P3n new, but the others 3 I have less than $100 total outgo.
Tim Murphy
Well-known
Pentax P30T
Pentax P30T
Dear Philip,
I'll preface my comments by saying this, if you have lenses that will work with an aperture priority camera that is the direction you should head for your most economical result.
Since it appears that you don't care about the brand, the Pentax P30T is my recommendation.
People have mentioned Pentax ME's and ME Supers but finding a working one, especially with the ME Super, is a real crapshoot and any money you'd spend to get it working would be money pissed away.
I have $ 30.00 invested in two P30T's. One works with an accurate meter but the shutter won't fire as it is jammed. I spend $ 20.00 for it. On the other hand, the $ 10.00 one I bought works perfectly. Both cameras came with lenses at the prices I paid. One with a 50mm/f2 and one with a 50mm/f1.7.
I figure I'm way ahead of the game based on the working lenses?
I'll buy another P30T body for a couple of dollars should I ever feel the need. I won't buy another ME body because it lacks any real manual control and I won't buy another ME Super because they are simply absolute pieces of crap. I bought 3 working ones to get one that almost works, sometimes.
Regards,
Tim Murphy
Harrisburg, PA
Pentax P30T
Dear Philip,
I'll preface my comments by saying this, if you have lenses that will work with an aperture priority camera that is the direction you should head for your most economical result.
Since it appears that you don't care about the brand, the Pentax P30T is my recommendation.
People have mentioned Pentax ME's and ME Supers but finding a working one, especially with the ME Super, is a real crapshoot and any money you'd spend to get it working would be money pissed away.
I have $ 30.00 invested in two P30T's. One works with an accurate meter but the shutter won't fire as it is jammed. I spend $ 20.00 for it. On the other hand, the $ 10.00 one I bought works perfectly. Both cameras came with lenses at the prices I paid. One with a 50mm/f2 and one with a 50mm/f1.7.
I figure I'm way ahead of the game based on the working lenses?
I'll buy another P30T body for a couple of dollars should I ever feel the need. I won't buy another ME body because it lacks any real manual control and I won't buy another ME Super because they are simply absolute pieces of crap. I bought 3 working ones to get one that almost works, sometimes.
Regards,
Tim Murphy
Harrisburg, PA
Bill Clark
Veteran
I use time value (shutter speed) and not aperture value to obtain correct exposure.
I find that dof is more important to me than shutter speed, especially since with most of my photography I'm using a tripod which allows greater variance with shutter speed.
Even with my old film cameras, I use shutter speed to get correct exposure.
That's with the majority of my photography. If I photographed events like sports or something like the Indy 500 I would use a different approach.
I find that dof is more important to me than shutter speed, especially since with most of my photography I'm using a tripod which allows greater variance with shutter speed.
Even with my old film cameras, I use shutter speed to get correct exposure.
That's with the majority of my photography. If I photographed events like sports or something like the Indy 500 I would use a different approach.
Doesn't really matter, on most of the fixed lens RFs if the 70s they only offered shutter priority; but just turn the shutter dial til you get the aperture you want. Konica SLRs were mostly shutter priority too.
As for SLRs, yes, lenses first.
Hence: Contax N1. Big but not heavy, and the 50/1.4 Planar and 100/2.8 Sonnar are exquisite. For wide, 24-85 zoom.
As for SLRs, yes, lenses first.
Hence: Contax N1. Big but not heavy, and the 50/1.4 Planar and 100/2.8 Sonnar are exquisite. For wide, 24-85 zoom.
Fraser
Well-known
If you find dof more important than shutter speed why don't you use aperture priority?
If I understand Bill correctly, I think he's saying he sets the aperture where he wants it and then adjusts shutter speed to get correct exposure.... Right, Bill?
Bill Clark
Veteran
When using a tripod, shutter speed isn't as important to me for most of my photography. I find that even with a full frame digital camera dof is more important.
My film cameras are too old and don't have aperture priority. Oh, I guess I have a Mamiya 645 that has it. With most of my cameras, I just set the f stop. That's my aperture priority!
My film cameras are too old and don't have aperture priority. Oh, I guess I have a Mamiya 645 that has it. With most of my cameras, I just set the f stop. That's my aperture priority!
jcb4718
Well-known
I also vote for the OM 4 or OM 4Ti while admitting that any of the cameras suggested are fine. The OM 4Ti is relatively small, aperture priority only, and has a spot metering system whereby up to 8 spot meter readings can be averaged to set the shutter speed for a given aperture. Manual focussing. Exquisite camera. I have a couple of OM 4 cameras. There was a problem with early OM 4 cameras: excessive battery drain. No OM 4Ti camera has this problem and later OM 4 cameras were fitted with 'OM 4Ti' circuitry. To tell if an OM 4 camera has the later circuitry, switch on the 'battery check': if it goes off after about 30 seconds, it has 'OM 4Ti' circuitry. The OM 4Ti as the name suggests has a titanium top and bottom (to shave a few grams off the weight) but these do not age well (something about the way the coating sticks to it). The OM 4 has a brass top and bottom so 'brasses' nicely, if you use it enough!
Dogman
Veteran
That is aperture priority, i.e., you set the aperture and the camera picks the shutter speed.
Bill Clark
Veteran
You're correct. That holds true with my digital Canon cameras and my one Mamiya medium format film camera. The rest of them are manual and I set both the shutter speed and aperture.
Arbitrarium
Well-known
I've bought and sold/gifted 3 ME Supers and only had one of them serviced for a slow mirror. Everything else worked fine on all of them, sounds like you had terrible luck.
As for the P30, a very good option on a low budget. Really quick to use and takes any of the excellent K lenses. Only problem is the plastic build makes it quite unbalanced with the heavy metal lenses.
narsuitus
Well-known
Not necessarily. It may be what the person posting has used.
For example, I have used Nikon, Canon, Fuji, Olympus, Pentax, Minolta, Miranda, Leica, and Contax cameras. My recommendation may be based on what I am now using or what I have used.
David Hughes
David Hughes
Hi,
I'll go along with picking the lens first but are we after primes or a zoom?
My current heap of film SLR's includes Minoltas (7000, 7000i, X-300 and X-700) because I like the cameras and lenses, prime and zooms; then Pentax ME Super and Olympus (from 1 to 10) but for the primes as I figure I can't beat the zoom on the Minolta.
To confuse the issue I use Minolta's own zooms and the Tokina AT-X.
And there's the bridge Olympus iS-3000 with the built in 35-180 zoom and the supplementary 28mm...
I would like to have just one or two but cannot decide which I like the most. The 7000's take odd batteries and SR44's might just decide it but should the tail wag the dog?
The zoom I like best is the Tokina and they come to fit all bodies.
Regards, David
I'll go along with picking the lens first but are we after primes or a zoom?
My current heap of film SLR's includes Minoltas (7000, 7000i, X-300 and X-700) because I like the cameras and lenses, prime and zooms; then Pentax ME Super and Olympus (from 1 to 10) but for the primes as I figure I can't beat the zoom on the Minolta.
To confuse the issue I use Minolta's own zooms and the Tokina AT-X.
And there's the bridge Olympus iS-3000 with the built in 35-180 zoom and the supplementary 28mm...
I would like to have just one or two but cannot decide which I like the most. The 7000's take odd batteries and SR44's might just decide it but should the tail wag the dog?
The zoom I like best is the Tokina and they come to fit all bodies.
Regards, David
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