which B&W developer @ Ritz / Wolf ???

[sockdaddy]

does anyone know if there is a standard developer used across the locations for the Ritz / Wolf Camera chains?

seems like every roll of B&W that i get developed there just isn't that great in terms of grain. i definitely never get the high quality, low grain in my negs that i've seen exhibited by some users here. more often that not, the grain is very, very apparent in my images, especially when viewed on the full size scans that i get back on the CDs.

for example, i like to shoot Tri-X at 1600 but the results from Wolf are less than promising. seems like i have to overexpose in camera by 2/3 to 1 stop to get a crisper image with less grain from them - does that sound right?

i was wondering if i should be using a different B&W film when i drop off at Wolf to try and find the best film/dev combo, so i asked the counter girl today which developer they used, but i can't remember what she said. the closest i can remember is dektol, but i don't think it was that one. maybe something whit an "f" of "ph" sound in it?

also, is there an option that i can ask for to prevent them from scanning my B&W negs and producing flat looking files? i consistenly get very "un-leveled" images back from them, much more so in B&W that in color...

 

[sockdaddy]

here's an example of the "levels" issue that i was talking about.

this is on Tri-X at 1600, overexposed about half a stop. pic was taken indoors with good house lighting at night time. just a grab shot, by the way.

second image is the Levels window in Photoshop for this image, straight off the CD from Wolf.

 

[sockdaddy]

here's the same image with just adjusting the black and white points

 

[sockdaddy]

and finally, a crop at 100% to show the grain. in this example, this is the smoothesst, cleanest grain which still looks a little noisier than what others have been achieving @ 1600

(no sharpening was applied to this photo)

 

[FrankS]

Sorry, can't help you, Sockdaddy, but wanted to say Hi! because you seem so all alone! I have a film developer question posted that isn't burning up the boards either. Hey, why not develop your own film? I't's not hard and you don't need a darkroom to do it.

 

[Crasis]

You could always ask them! I know that most use Kodak D76, rarely do they use Kodak Xtol or Ilford DD unless they're more of a pro lab. Ilford D-11 is also popular.

Very very few labs use rodinal and its ilk. Just ask them! They'll let you know.

Btw, I am a strong proponent of Delta 400 @ 1600!

 

[sockdaddy]

well, i did ask today, but i forgot the answer... not sure when i'll get back down to ask them again.

my wife is against me setting up a darkroom in the house, so that is out. but i do have a local classroom and studio that rents their darkroom for cheap ($20/day or $60/4days). but, i rarely have the time (or multiple rolls) to make that worth it. plus, then i still have to scan!

 

[Diggin99]

Nodak BW400CN

Nodak BW400CN

Since you know you cannot develop at this time I would seriously consider switching to one of the B&W films that process in C41. They scan very well and can be really put in any one hour photo lab. I used kodak BW400CN, here is a scan of the result...

Ops Kodak 🙂 sorry for the spelling...its early!

Nancy

 

[Krasnaya_Zvezda]

well, i did ask today, but i forgot the answer... not sure when i'll get back down to ask them again.

my wife is against me setting up a darkroom in the house, so that is out. but i do have a local classroom and studio that rents their darkroom for cheap ($20/day or $60/4days). but, i rarely have the time (or multiple rolls) to make that worth it. plus, then i still have to scan!

All of my developing stuff resides in two black storage tubs I bought at the Container store for about 5 bucks each. They are stored unobtrusively in a corner of the kitchen. When I have a couple of rolls to develop, I get out the changing bag, the necessary chemicals and accessories, and in less than 5 minutes there is an instant darkroom in the kitchen. After I'm done, the whole setup disappears just as quickly. It is cheaper than dirt, and incredibly easy, to DIY at home. And you have far more control over the results.
As for scanning, well, you just have to learn to love it. A plentiful and continuous supply of some refreshing beverage helps the process along.

 

[sockdaddy]

ok - i got some more info from the Wolf people. they use Duraflo developer for their B&W film. based on a chart that was posted in another thread on Kodak developers, this seems to produce the worst possible grain - which is then exaggerated by pushing up to 1600.

so the real question - if i continue to have B&W film developed at Wolf, what would people recommend i shoot knowing that the developer is Duraflo, and that i often push the film? does anyone have any example of good combos they can share?

also - i do use the 400CN film from Kodak from time to time. i like the ease of use and development, but i find that they generally produce a higher contrast image. furthermore, are these "pushable" (esp. at a lab like Target, Walgreens, etc.?)

 

[JeremyR]

also - i do use the 400CN film from Kodak from time to time. i like the ease of use and development, but i find that they generally produce a higher contrast image. furthermore, are these "pushable" (esp. at a lab like Target, Walgreens, etc.?)

I did some reading a little while ago about various B&W films. A couple of sources (unfortunately I don't remember where, but Google should be of service) reported good results with pushing or pulling chromogenic films (e.g. 400CN) by one stop, and still decent results when pushing/pulling two stops. One reported shooting between EI 100-EI 1600 on the same roll and still found the results satisfactory. So the chromogenics seem to have exposure latitude up the wazoo (note, though, that I haven't tried this personally).

As for taking a roll into Walgreens or something and asking them to push it two stops in processing, I'm not sure you wouldn't just get a blank look...

Cheers,
Jeremy

 

[jano]

sockdaddy.. the grain there isn't all that bad. Part of it has to do with your lighting conditions, etc. That's about the same level that I usually get.

Like the others have said, you might want to consider developing your own. It's not hard, and since you like to shoot tri-x @ 1600, maybe diafine would be the way to go. It's easy, cheap, and lasts forever, and you don't need a darkroom, just a changing bag. If you have kids, cover the jugs with skeleton stickers, poison labels, hazmat and biohazard labels. That should keep them from drinking it 😉

Jano