Which developer?

[froyd]

I did some reading online about the state of developers and seems like there are almost more choices now that back when I was spending days in the darkroom. Back then I was using primarily D-76, ID 11, and T-Max.

After many long years, the memory of those developers is a bit foggy and I need some assistance finding a developer that meets the following criteria:

- Long shelf life: would be use to process 2-3 35mm rolls per month
- Easy to dilute in small batches of working solution
- Would strongly prefer one-shot use
- Emphasis on long tonal range and shadow detail
- Easily available in the US
- Well suited for 400 speed film (mostly HP5 and Tri-X).
- Will be used in a Paterson-type tank


I might trow in the mix the occasional roll of 120 in Delta 100, but I would be OK to use a separate developer for T-grains...of course, one developer that could handle both film types well would be preferred.


PS- Found some good resources on Chris' site and Kodak's but thanks in advance to links to good comparisons among various developers

 

[xayraa33]

Kodak HC-110 fits there fairly well.

 

[Ko.Fe.]

I'm on my last 1L of d-76 (old crap even if fresh), two gallons of x-tol (ocean of liquid to deal with) to go. Once it is done and gone, only HC-110. And I have tried Rodinal...

 

[sebastel]

i think, kodak HC-110, ilford LC29 (or HC) should match most of your list.

in order to help with shelf life, i got me 5 glass bottles holding 100ml each and filled them with the content of a bottle of LC29. reduces exposure to oxygen - so far, my LC29 is still as active as fresh (after 2 or 3 years, i forgot already how long i have it).

i also like to use rodinal with HP5 or ilford pan 400, but that's not to everybody's taste.

 

[anerjee]

Consider Ilford DD-X. It fits most of your criteria, only marginal consideration is shelf life. I've used 6 month old DD-X without issues.

In my experience it gives more speed with negligible extra grain compared to d-76. Xtol is as nice, but the 5l mixing is not convenient.

 

[Chriscrawfordphoto]

Tmax Developer is what I use when I want something that is easy to mix and gives full speed. It comes as a liquid that has a very, very long shelf life. Its a good all-around developer for higher speed films like Tri-X and HP5. Not grainy, doesn't lose speed, has nice tonality. There are developers that are 'better' for certain things, but all have tradeoffs. PMK has incredible tonality, but loses 2/3 stop of speed. Rodinal is very sharp, but grainy and loses some speed. Xtol and D76 are both good all-around developers but they come as powders and have short shelf life once dissolved.

Use Tmax Developer diluted 1+7 instead of 1+4. Tri-X and HP5 both look great at 1+7 if you multiply the times Kodak and Ilford give for Tmax Developer by 1.5 (Ilford says develop HP5 for 6.5 minutes in Tmax 1+4 at 68 degrees. I develop it for 9.75 minutes in Tmax 1+7 at the same temp).

Tmax is also an excellent pushing developer for Tmax 400 (haven't tried pushing Tri-X or HP5 yet) and is the best developer I have tried for Ilford Delta 3200.

 

[John Bragg]

+1for HC-110. I have used it for years, and it fits the bill for what you are asking. It can be used at a huge variety of dilutions and adapted to any look you could want.

 

[Bill Clark]

For developers that get mixed into a stock solution, I have found that using empty 2 liter soda bottles, it lasts a long time. I have D-76 that I mixed up in July 2012 and I have about 3 liters left and it still works just fine.

I experiment using different developers but I still like my old standby D-76.

Got the bug to try stand development with Rodinal (it's called different names now as the Rodinal made by Agfa is no more) and it works quite well, especially on lower ASA film.

I suggest getting down what you like with one type of developer and then try others. I find that experimenting can be fun as the outcome can be a surprise.

 

[hidejoshi]

comercial or you want boil your own product.

 

[SolaresLarrave]

Another vote for Tri-X here. I have had mine for a while longer than it says before expiring and it still works. I switched to Ilford out of necessity (B&H sells T-Max along with a replenisher and I didn't want that), but I'll buy T-Max again as soon as I am done with the Ilfosol.

That's another choice, BTW. Compared with its predecessor, Ilfosol S, the newer Ilfosol 3 has an extended shelf life (or so claims Ilford).

I'll tell you later...

 

[Mablo]

Just started to use SPUR HRX for HP5+ and some Tri-X and it's gorgeous.

It sure looks very, very good. I need to try this out.

 

[Fotohuis]

About your criteria: HC-110 fits very well. A lot of films are doing pretty well in it.

 

[froyd]

Thanks for all the advice. Gotta say HC-110 sounds very good on paper and easy to use. I don't like short development times, so I like the option for strong dilutions.

After I get going, I'd love to give PMK a try... every time I see samples posted my jaw drops.

 

[DNG]

+3 on HC110.

I shoot Tmax 400... just like the less grain at pushed speeds over TriX 400

I use 10ml to 590ml of water for one roll of 35mm (1:60)
With Paterson tanks, you will need use double the standard for developing...
IE: 2 reel tank for 1 roll, 4 reel tank for 2 rolls etc..

1:60 gives (Dilution H is 1:63, but I use 1:60 for ease of making a one shot mix) around 10-12min at 68c and a nice tonal range.
Works well with TriX, Tmax, (or with old school and modern films).

 

[Chriscrawfordphoto]

Thanks for all the advice. Gotta say HC-110 sounds very good on paper and easy to use. I don't like short development times, so I like the option for strong dilutions.

After I get going, I'd love to give PMK a try... every time I see samples posted my jaw drops.

PMK is awesome. I've used it with both Ilford HP5 and Kodak Tri-X. In my opinion, it works far better with HP5. I think Tri-X works best in D-76 or Tmax Developer, but HP5 looks best in PMK. The combination is so good that I prefer HP5 in PMK to Tri-X in D-76. Ilford's FP4 is also incredible in PMK.

 

[froyd]

PMK is awesome. I've used it with both Ilford HP5 and Kodak Tri-X. In my opinion, it works far better with HP5. I think Tri-X works best in D-76 or Tmax Developer, but HP5 looks best in PMK. The combination is so good that I prefer HP5 in PMK to Tri-X in D-76. Ilford's FP4 is also incredible in PMK.

Yep, the HP5 samples on your site have been a main driving force behind my curiosity. Wonderful character, well suited to the subject matter.

 

[froyd]

With Paterson tanks, you will need use double the standard for developing...
IE: 2 reel tank for 1 roll, 4 reel tank for 2 rolls etc..

Good to know. Is this stated in the official Kodak literature or is there a place you can point me to for this kind of insight?

 

[titrisol]

Pat Gainer's PC-TEA is a great home brew, HC110 is close second
I do not know if DDX will last longer if it is "broken" in small vials

 

[Chriscrawfordphoto]

Good to know. Is this stated in the official Kodak literature or is there a place you can point me to for this kind of insight?

This the case with D-76 1+1, no matter what brand or type of developing tanks you use. D-76, diluted, is just not powerful enough to develop two rolls of film in a two roll tank. You need a tank twice as large as the number of films you're developing. I do 2 rolls in a 4 roll tank, filing the rest of the tank with empty reels. Kodak's info sheet on D-76 says you need 250ml of stock solution for each roll, so a 500ml (2 roll) tank can only do one roll because D-76 1+1 still has only 250ml of D-76 in it (the rest being the water you diluted it with).

This is a good policy with most developers, but some are strong enough that you can fill the tank with films. Tmax 1+4 and straight D-76 work well that way.

 

[Rayt]

This the case with D-76 1+1, no matter what brand or type of developing tanks you use. D-76, diluted, is just not powerful enough to develop two rolls of film in a two roll tank. You need a tank twice as large as the number of films you're developing. I do 2 rolls in a 4 roll tank, filing the rest of the tank with empty reels. Kodak's info sheet on D-76 says you need 250ml of stock solution for each roll, so a 500ml (2 roll) tank can only do one roll because D-76 1+1 still has only 250ml of D-76 in it (the rest being the water you diluted it with).

Coming from you I don't doubt this statement. But myself and most amateur photographers I know have been souping Tri-x with D76 1+1 this way since forever. Perhaps my negs can be better processed 2 rolls in a 4 roll tank filled with D76 1+1. In what ways will I see improvements. I read online some people claim to have success using D76 1+2.