Which Fed-2?

[5nap5hot]

Hi all

I have decided to get a FSU camera. I have searched alot of threads and have decided to get a FED-2. Now I need to narrow it down. Should I get an 2,a, b,c,d ? There seems to be a big difference in price. What should I be looking for?

Thanks

 

[Ash]

go for the cheapest, from a reliable seller. Try Oleg ( okvintagecamera.com ) or fedka. You'll probably need it overhauled anyway, so factor that into the cost as well.

 

[Jocko]

A good seller is indeed the best assurance. Any Fed is fine with a 50mm lens, but if I intended to use accessory lenses with dedicated finders, I would be inclined to go for a D, which has a raised accessory/flash shoe. Earlier models have a much lower shoe, apparently intended for use with the Soviet multifinder. Individual finders will not fit, as some have found to their cost 🙂

But of course, if you intend to use the multifinder, earlier models are best!

It's sometimes said that very late FED 2s (I assume those with a nylon as opposed to vulcanite coating) are not as well made as earlier cameras. I have no idea if this is true - but vulcanite is much nicer!

All the best, Ian

 

[40oz]

go for the cheapest

sorry, that advice just seems looking for trouble. I'd much rather pay more than I have to for a clean user than lowball to get a rough and beat camera that will just disappoint and frustrate. One has to think a slightly more expensive example from a reputable seller would be priced higher for some reason. I also try to find one that has numerous pictures, and compare the images to other auctions, to find one that appears to have the least number of cosmetic defects/damage, but doesn't look like it was shelved 40 years ago because it didn't work.

 

[varjag]

40oz, I think the original phrase was "go for the cheapest, from reliable seller". Now it makes more sense, doesn't it? 🙂

There is an opinion that if you look for a user it is wise to avoid very early and very late samples. The latter are built to lesser standard, but the earliest are hard to take apart: they had screw heads on speed selectors filed off at factory.

 

[Ash]

Thanks for that varjag 🙂
40oz, you definitely jumped the gun and didnt finish reading the sentence 😀

Besides, for my first rangefinder, I went for the the cheapest Zorki-4k I could find on 'bay. It was an 'ok' picture showing a good condition camera, no-one else bidded, and I got it quite cheap. It's reliable and a good little camera. So it can work both ways, but what I meant was, buy from a good seller like Oleg, but don't pay silly prices because of the serial/model number.

 

[robin a]

Hi,take Ians advice.

 

[5nap5hot]

Welp! I just bought this one. Looked good to me! Any suggestions for lenses/accesories?
http://cgi.ebay.com/K95-original-Rangefinder-camera-Fed-2-type-D-PHOTO_W0QQitemZ190037195228QQihZ009QQcategoryZ15234QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

 

[Nickfed]

Looks very clean. The most obvious extra lens is the Jupiter-12 35mm. Note that this camera has the "low" accessory shoe. You are therefore obliged to use the turret finder with accessory lenses rather than an individual finder.

 

[robin a]

Hi,you did good.J 12 lens,turret finder,and lots of film!

 

[40oz]

40oz, I think the original phrase was "go for the cheapest, from reliable seller". Now it makes more sense, doesn't it? 🙂

There is an opinion that if you look for a user it is wise to avoid very early and very late samples. The latter are built to lesser standard, but the earliest are hard to take apart: they had screw heads on speed selectors filed off at factory.

I think you and Ash need to finish reading my post 😉