Which hand-held meter are you using?

I keep an old Weston selenium meter in the car, and a Gossen Lunisix w/ spotmeter attachment for when the light gets low.

Of course, 1/2 my camera's have good light meters, but only my GIII, Canonet 28, GSN, Konica Auto S and Kiev 3a rangefinders have good working meters. The rest of my RF's either have dead meters (Auto S2's) or none at all.
 
Gossen Sixtino. Small, lightweight. Does reflective as well as ambient metering (by covering the cell with a translucent slider). Needs no batteries (selenium cell). Only drawback is that it doesn't meter accurately below approx. 1/30-f2 @100ISO (because of the selenium cell).
 
My fav meter for many years has been a Gossen Super Pilot SBC, and I used to have a Sekonic 398 Studio Deluxe... which still may be stashed on a shelf somewhere around here. Should look for it. Recently picked up a used Gossen Luna Star F digital, pretty nice!

Oh, and I think I still have a Wein flash meter, and not to forget a Pentax digital spot meter I never use.
 
I also use a Weston Master II for the Nikon RF's and the M3. The selenium meter is accurate in two of my Canon 7 cameras. I replaced the selenium meter on my Retina IIIS with one from a badly jammed Retina Reflex-S. I love things that are as old as I am that still work...

The Master II is easy: use ASA speed directly with the old Weston scale. Under bright light, a mask is left in place over the large Selenium cell. For heavy shade and indoors, flip the mask down to reveal the entire (sealed) selenium cell. A second scale comes into place. Read the linear scale, match a dial to the value, and the shutter speed/f-stop combinations are given.
 
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mourges said:
What is the Weston II like to use?
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It's OK - but the scale (times) engravings are bit crowded and too small for me, so I prefer my Weston V - the scale is much more to my taste, with color-coded full stop differences, etc.
Otherwise, the handling is the same. Westons are *good* meters, surprisingly accurate and sensitive, provided the cell is OK.

Denis
 
Rich Silfver said:
Sekonic L-308B II
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Richard, what happened to your MR meter for Leica?
I seem to remember reading that you did something to it, and it stopped working? What gives?

Denis
 
I have had a Sekonic L28c2 for about 30 years, and it worked superly until I dropped it about 10 months ago. Now it only works if held horizontally on its side. :bang: But what a meter, especially with all the slides. Since then I bought a great Gossen Luna Pro off ebay for less than $50.

I prefer to use both as incident meters when possible, but am not afraid to use reflected when I think it is to my advantage. Especially in low light. Both are very sensitive, but obviously, the Gossen is more so with its battery.

Neither has yet been used with a Leica. :( :D
 
Westons are *good* meters, surprisingly accurate and sensitive, provided the cell is OK.

Agree with you on that one Denis. My Megatron is essentially a brand-new Weston Master V, but without the color coding. I just love seeing all the f stop and shutter combinations on that scale for me to read.

I took a pic of it this morning with my coffee so if it turns out OK I'll post it tonight. Great meter!
 
For my medium format games, a small Sekonic L-208, incident and reflected light meter you can carry around your neck. Kinda cute... :)
 
I'm using the VC meter, usually clipped onto the accessory shoe. It's so tiny it's easy to pocket as well.

I see there's an even sleeker VC II just being released. Sweet!

Gene
 
So here's my Megatron. It has a shutter speed scale that goes from 1/4000sec to 15min, and an aperture scale that runs from f0.5 to f45. That takes care of most situations... ;)
 
I use a Gossen Starlite which gives me very reliable readings and also has a 1 degree spotmeter.
I which my little Sixtino worked, 'cause I like the tiny handy design, bought it secondhand d.o.a.
 
Minolta VF with various add-on's-
5º and 40º Spot attachments, two different diffusers and the probe for LF work.

One thing I love about this light meter is how accurate it is and th magic zone system button. Take highlight reading, take a shadow reading, punch in your prefered ISO, do a mid tone reading and develop your film at N-0! Works everytime! No more gazing at 8x10 FP4+ negs thinking "six minutes wasn't right... grrr"

Stu :)
 
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