which Kiev?

[brachal]

Hello, all. Some of the recent Capa discussions have got me thinking of buying a Kiev. Can anyone recommend a particular model over another? One that stands out (in a good way, 😉 , like the Fed 2 stands out among other Feds)? Any model in particular to avoid?

I've also heard that the quality control on later production is pretty bad even by FSU standards. I don't especially need/want a light meter.

Thanks for any advice,

Bill

 

[JoeFriday]

hey Bill.. I'd highly recommend a Kiev 4a.. something from the mid 60s, if possible.. the quality control is allegedly the best from that era, and they have the same style as the Contax II.. hard to go wrong with that

 

[dll927]

I'd recommend the Kiev 4a - the model without the meter. I think it's a nicer looking beast and those old meters were the selenium type that would very likely be inaccurate, if they work at all.

I have three Kievs, two of which have the meter on top. The meters do work after a fashion, but I wouldn't trust them with slide film.

As for the year of manufacture, there's a difference of opinion on that score, although it seems commom to claim that the quality control went downhill after about the mid-60's. Still, some dispute that, too, and there's always somebody with a late model that works fine. As with most FSU cameras, the first two digits of the serial number denote the year of manufacture.

In the case of Contaxes (of which Kievs are copies), they say to stick to POST-W. W. II models, as they had gears in the shutters instead of the cloth straps that were prone to breaking and needing replacing. I'm not certain if that also applies to Kievs.

 

[brachal]

Thanks! Is there anything unusual about using the 4a? Cutting a "leica leader" or non-standard film cartridge, etc?

 

[VinceC]

The Kiev doesn't have a take-up spool, so you have to bust open a used film cartridge and use the spool from it.

The Kiev also has a removable back. The whole thing comes off to load film. Takes a bit of getting used to, but you don't have to guess about whether or not the film's loaded onto the takeup spool. You also have to wind the shutter/film advance before changing film speeds.

 

[jdos2]

I'd also recommend you get one from Oleg. If you DO want one with a meter, ask him to make sure the meter is accurate.

No caveats. As long as it's in good repair, it works as modern expectations allow.

 

[kmack]

hey Bill.. I'd highly recommend a Kiev 4a.. something from the mid 60s, if possible.. the quality control is allegedly the best from that era, and they have the same style as the Contax II.. hard to go wrong with that

Or a Kiev 2 if you can find a good one that is not too expensive these days.

 

[nzeeman]

i got kiev 4 few days ago from a friend as a present and its very nice camera. take 4a if you dont have much money , but if you have a little more money take kiev2. i would love to have kiev2.

 

[brachal]

Thanks to all of you for the advice. I'll see what Oleg and Fedka have. Now all I need to do is figure out how to explain the purchase in a way that doesn't put me sleeping on the sofa for a week ... "No, hon, it's not another Fed ... it's a Kiev. It's different, really."

 

[JoeFriday]

why do you have to explain it? they all look the same.. "what do you mean 'another camera', honey?" 😉

 

[Gabriel M.A.]

Use the Fours, Luke...

😉

I mean, Bill.

 

[rolleistef]

i got a IIIa i'm very pleased of. It's very quiet and all BUT
if you buy a real II, buy a contax instead, it's as expensive
if you want a perfectly working camera, do rather take a 4a. I've got a '56 IIIa, of which building quality is fantastic, but the shutter speeds are not accurate anymore, which is quite normal on such an old body. The 25th is rather 20ish, and the 1250th rather looks like a 800th... so you need to compensate with the aperture, and be very careful that neither you nor the subject is moving otherwise...
4s have a weird baroque shape I likeD until came the winding...
III and IIIa have a nice big winding button, but the meter blocks it and you can only make a quarter turn at the same time.... 36x4 = 144 moves for one winding...!

So : take an early (early as you can) 4a, around 60-62, which is the best period. And once you have you camera, buy a 50s Jupiter 3. That('s alll!
Have fun framing in this tiny viewfinder, holding your camera in a strange way, and having people asking you all the time how much you paid it and whether you could still find films for it
Stéphane

 

[brachal]

Well, I went ahead and did it. Bought a late 50's IIa from Yuri. I was looking at the 4a's, but there were none earlier than late 70's - and the price difference wasn't much. I'm looking forward to using it! If I like it, that Jupiter-3 might be in my future ...

Thanks again to everyone for the advice.

 

[Solinar]

Congratulations. The 2a has a pc nipple for a flash, but in my opinion you'll want to pass on using a flash unit. Yuri is superb when it comes to customer service.

As mentioned, Kievs are fun to load, but much, much easier than a bottom loading Leica. I recommend that you find a place to sit down when loading. The take up spool is a loose fit and will fall on to the ground, if you aren't paying attention.

Also, the rewind knob requires a multitude of turns while at the same time pushing up on the film release button at the bottom of the camera. It's slow.

The origninal film loading system was designed so that you wound the film into a take up cannister, which had a light proof door that closed when you opened the right latch to release the camera back. One could take out the cartridge without rewinding the film.

Another idiosyncracy is the mounting of the 5 cm lens. It is an internal mount. There is a locking table on the focus wheel in front of the shutter release, which needs to be in the up position when mounting the 5 cm focal length. The other focal lengths use the external bayonet.

Well worth the effort though. Good light and happy shooting.

 

[brachal]

Solinar,

I don't usually use a flash, but I'd probably use my Bessa R if I had to -- use a flash that is. I love my bessa. I prefer available light, outdoor photography.

I'm not too worried about loading the camera anymore. I shoot a Fed 2 quite a bit, so I'm used to removable backs and dropping the spool. The Kiev's process seems similar.

 

[outfitter]

The best quality was up to about 1960 before too many modifications to increase and cheapen production had occurred and the original German trained staff had retired. That said I have a late Kiev 4a (1979) that I bought new in the box back in the early 1980s that feels like a coffee grinder but functions flawlessly - the design was too good for the Soviets to ruin.

The Kiev/Contax most certainly has a take-up spool and you would be well advised to get one - much quicker to load than with a homemade spool. The best spool IMO is the one from the Contax IIa, which had a diagonal split with a tooth to catch a sprocket hole - very quick to use. The soviet ones a pretty good also.

Michael

 

[darkkavenger]

I am in love with my Kiev-2A for almost a year now. I've handled quite a number of Kiev's and no one had the solid feel of my 2A (except the 1955 Kiev-2 I sold to a fellow RFF member).

 

[rolleistef]

well done,
the best choice IMHO. They are extrememly well made camera, leatherette is superb. The only thing ypou have to be warned of, is that shutter speeds on a 50 yo shutter are most of the time too slow. All right in b&w, but you'd better correct a bit (a half stop or so)
have fun!
stéphane

 

[ruben]

Hello, all. Some of the recent Capa discussions have got me thinking of buying a Kiev. Can anyone recommend a particular model over another? One that stands out (in a good way, 😉 , like the Fed 2 stands out among other Feds)? Any model in particular to avoid? ...

Thanks for any advice,

Bill

#) Kiev 2 or 2a for the legendary feeling with seldom shooting allowed

#) Kiev 4AM for a relative fast and heavy performer, although absolutely ugly looking.

#) Kiev 4 from the sixties for having half of this and half of that.

And, as previously said many times, the most important is not what model you go after but who is the seller, what apparatus you actually got, and what you can improve on it.

Cheers and sorry for the cruelty,
Ruben

 

[brachal]

According to Yuri, the shutter speeds are all correct. I believe he overhauls everything before he sells. I've bought a Fed 2 and a Jupiter 9 from him in the past, and both were excellent. Should be a good camera. Of course only time will tell.

Our jazz festival is coming up in a month or so ... should be a great time to get a feel for a new camera!!