Brooklynguy
Established
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With my GF670, which is actually quite a pleasure to use on the street.
Very nice environmental portrait--I like the separation and transition between subject and background.
p.giannakis
Pan Giannakis
I use AF SLRs - Nikons (F4s, F5 and F90x) and Canons (EOS-5 and EOS-1n RS).
Occasionally I use my Olympus's (OM-1 and OM-2n).
More rarely my Barnack Leica.
Occasionally I use my Olympus's (OM-1 and OM-2n).
More rarely my Barnack Leica.
Now... Fujifilm X-Pro2 and just ordered a X-T2 to compliment it. Also use a X100T at times.
Juan Valdenebro
Truth is beauty
Best way IMO to do street is keeping the camera ready all the time, changing its speed only, while walking into different light zones: speed, aperture and focus set all the time... Size and low sound, make RF's the best option. Because of a wider DOF, a 28 or a 35 are better than longer lenses. If what is desired, more than a whole scene or a close subject inside its surroundings, is isolating a few elements or playing with forms, a 50 is better. That's the clear difference between say Winogrand and Cartier-Bresson, but what I really can't stand for street is shutter delay. Any amount of it makes us lose shots easily... And if light is low, and I can't stop down for prefocus, the best tool I know of is the Konica Hexar AF, amazingly effective.
Cheers,
Juan
Cheers,
Juan
KM-25
Well-known
Large format so I can use tilt and shift to get all the asphalt in focus.
Ko.Fe.
Lenses 35/21 Gears 46/20
Best way IMO to do street is keeping the camera ready all the time, changing its speed only, while walking into different light zones: speed, aperture and focus set all the time... Size and low sound, make RF's the best option. Because of a wider DOF, a 28 or a 35 are better than longer lenses. If what is desired, more than a whole scene or a close subject inside its surroundings, is isolating a few elements or playing with forms, a 50 is better. That's the clear difference between say Winogrand and Cartier-Bresson, but what I really can't stand for street is shutter delay. Any amount of it makes us lose shots easily... And if light is low, and I can't stop down for prefocus, the best tool I know of is the Konica Hexar AF, amazingly effective.
Cheers,
Juan
I'm not sure if HCB was set for single focus distance. At one interview he did mention something like three meters distance. But GW was pre-focusing or focusing even with 28mm lens. With ISO100 film (I have seen his negatives) and low light you just can't have one focus distance for all.
With 28mm you really need to get close, very close. And if you check DOF on close distances, it is not as easy as you think, even at f8.
Often, with low speed film (for better quality) you could keep it only at 1/250 and play with aperture from 2.8 to 5.6. This is why it isn't just RF for the street, but properly build RF lens. With aperture clicks and focus tab for fast fiddling.
markus_h_photography
Established
Whatever I feel like at the time.
Usually an OM2 with a 35 or 50mm lens simply because an Olympus OM was my first camera and its controls are second nature to me. Otherwise I might reach for a Nikon FG, Minolta SRT101 or maybe a Himatic 7s.
Once in a while I might even go digital.
Usually an OM2 with a 35 or 50mm lens simply because an Olympus OM was my first camera and its controls are second nature to me. Otherwise I might reach for a Nikon FG, Minolta SRT101 or maybe a Himatic 7s.
Once in a while I might even go digital.
JChrome
Street Worker
For years I have been touting medium format and my love for it for street. I still do, but I recently got an MP and Summilux 50... and I must say the combo is a very satisfying street machine.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
thawkins
Well-known
Used QL17 last street session.
I think I forgot to mention the Ricoh GR for street.
nightfly
Well-known
Used to be Leica M4-P, Ricoh GR1 (film), mostly black and white.
Now Leica M9, Ricoh GR II mostly color.
Some tools just work better than others.
Now Leica M9, Ricoh GR II mostly color.
Some tools just work better than others.
Chubberino
Well-known
Leica M2
Leica M3
Leica M8
Bronica RF645
Fuji GW690III
Olumpus XA-2
Canon A1
Fuji X-Pro2
Fuji XT-2
Take your pick really. I guess it's what ever I feel like at the time. I like to have options, lol!
Leica M3
Leica M8
Bronica RF645
Fuji GW690III
Olumpus XA-2
Canon A1
Fuji X-Pro2
Fuji XT-2
Take your pick really. I guess it's what ever I feel like at the time. I like to have options, lol!
MIkhail
-
Long time ago I came to conclusion that sneaky stealthy way of taking picture is the best way to get in trouble. Times have changed since AKB. So I use most visible camera I have. Which is Minolta X700 for film. Anything for digital. I like larger camera in my hands, I would attach a grip even just to add bulk.
I just approach people and shoot. Had two occasional objections over last 12 years.
Have Leica M6 but don't use it very often. Still keeping it for bragging right.
I just approach people and shoot. Had two occasional objections over last 12 years.
Have Leica M6 but don't use it very often. Still keeping it for bragging right.
FrankS
Registered User
A film or digital P+S camera while acting like a tourist is the least conspicuous. The other method is to use a big "pro" camera and act openly like a serious photographer on assignment. Anything inbetween can be interpreted as shady.
ChrisPlatt
Thread Killer
A truly pocketable 35mm film camera, scale/zone focus type.
Chris
Chris
nikon_sam
Shooter of Film...
I like using the Mamiya m645 with a WLF...second choice a Yashicamat 124...
Tati
Established
The last two years or so it has mainly been a ricoh gr. It is small, discreet, and gives good image quality. I have it with me all the time. I love shooting with it. The grip and controls are just perfect for me. And people don't pay me any mind. I don't upset people or make them feel uncomfortable with this diminutive camera. I can get in close and shoot and it's so quiet no one notices. It is totally the best experience for me shooting on the street.
Lately, I'm mixing it up a bit with a olympus m5v2 and some prime lenses. People notice me and this camera more but so far it's all good.
I have also used a nikon d700 and primes, an old canon dslr with primes. They attract attention and sometimes people are put off, and wave 'no'...
When I first started it was a mamiya sekor dsx 1000 with the kit 50 or 55 mm lens, I forget what it was. I have it in my closet someplace.
I've never been able to afford a leica.
I do like autofocus, but I sometimes use snap focus with the GR.
It's weird to talk about this.
Lately, I'm mixing it up a bit with a olympus m5v2 and some prime lenses. People notice me and this camera more but so far it's all good.
I have also used a nikon d700 and primes, an old canon dslr with primes. They attract attention and sometimes people are put off, and wave 'no'...
When I first started it was a mamiya sekor dsx 1000 with the kit 50 or 55 mm lens, I forget what it was. I have it in my closet someplace.
I've never been able to afford a leica.
I do like autofocus, but I sometimes use snap focus with the GR.
It's weird to talk about this.
kb244
Well-known
I picked two, rangefinder and "other".
Other because my Olympus E-M5 isn't a Digital SLR, but it's not a digital compact either but rather a mirrorless or what people call ILC now days (Interchangeable Lens Camera, very broad term that could include digital RFs and DSLRs)
One of the things I love about my E-M5 (the Mk1 not the newer version) is the screen is not fully articulated, but rather flips out without swiveling which is perfect for waist-level shooting without looking like a camcorder. Which is something I loved from when I used to shoot medium format with a waist level finder keeps everyone acting naturally because bringing a camera up to the eye, or swinging an LCD out to the side always puts people on alert.
Rangefinders I would have to bring up to the eye anyways (if I don't just scale focus with a wide lens), but they're usually much less "intimidating" to begin with now days.
Some from my E-M5 (I haven't shot with my RF much yet, and when I shot a lot 10 years ago it wasn't street)
With the Jupiter-11 135mm f/4 (LTM Adapted)
Rokinon 85mm f/1.4 Pentax mount adapted
Sigma 30mm f/2.8 DN-Art (Native Micro-4/3rd lens)
Panasonic 20mm f/1.7 (Native Micro-4/3rd)
Other because my Olympus E-M5 isn't a Digital SLR, but it's not a digital compact either but rather a mirrorless or what people call ILC now days (Interchangeable Lens Camera, very broad term that could include digital RFs and DSLRs)
One of the things I love about my E-M5 (the Mk1 not the newer version) is the screen is not fully articulated, but rather flips out without swiveling which is perfect for waist-level shooting without looking like a camcorder. Which is something I loved from when I used to shoot medium format with a waist level finder keeps everyone acting naturally because bringing a camera up to the eye, or swinging an LCD out to the side always puts people on alert.
Rangefinders I would have to bring up to the eye anyways (if I don't just scale focus with a wide lens), but they're usually much less "intimidating" to begin with now days.
Some from my E-M5 (I haven't shot with my RF much yet, and when I shot a lot 10 years ago it wasn't street)
With the Jupiter-11 135mm f/4 (LTM Adapted)

Rokinon 85mm f/1.4 Pentax mount adapted

Sigma 30mm f/2.8 DN-Art (Native Micro-4/3rd lens)

Panasonic 20mm f/1.7 (Native Micro-4/3rd)

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DavidFree1
Newbie
Pentode
Well-known
There was a while, many years back, when a majority of my street shooting was done with a Petri Color Corrected 1.9 (a nice, fixed-lens Japanese RF) and some with a Seagull 203 (a less nice Chinese 6x4.5/6x6 folder). I liked them both for their small size and quiet leaf shutters.
More recently, I'll grab just about anything off the shelf for street photography, but small and quiet are definitely nice features to consider.
More recently, I'll grab just about anything off the shelf for street photography, but small and quiet are definitely nice features to consider.
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