imokruok
Well-known
I am sort of heading this direction. I was on the fence about getting a Contax G2, but then I saw people making m4/3 adapters for the G2 lenses. I will probably get a GF1 or whatever its successor is now that I know my glass isn't worthless once I give up on the G2.
I'm not a big guy and weight is always an issue. The G2 itself isn't a whole lot different in weight than my N90s, but the N90s plus a set of lenses is way more cumbersome than the G2 kit. And if I'm going to split between film and digital, the lenses should really be compatible with each of the bodies.
But even after all of this, I still look longingly at Mamiya medium format AF cameras....
imokruok
Well-known
You could get a Zoom H2 for $150 and mount it in the hot shoe; record audio separately, sync it up later.
robert blu
quiet photographer
I'm thinking about an EP-1 with the 17mm lensa and the external viewfinder. On film the 35mm is my most used focal lens. I would like also to have an external finder for my 35 leica lens to use on the EP-1 when I need a medium tele lens (35 = 70), but I do not know any viewfinder for a 70mm view
robert
robert
yanidel
Well-known
I would go E-P2 body with Pana 20mm 1.7.
In body stabilization + best EVF + fastest lens.
In body stabilization + best EVF + fastest lens.
kully
Happy Snapper
Camera quest still have the 75mm finders, I suppose 5mm is not so important at 70-75mm?
paragon
Established
No G1/GH1 ???
As my primary M4/3 it would be a G1 or GH1 with the 14 45 and the 20mm coming very quickly to be mated with an EP-1.
The G1 with anything before the EP1, (or GF1), is my point
The 20mm would stick on the EP-1 (almost),permanently to give OS in camera as the "carry" around
The G1 is a great host for any (unused), legacy stuff that you may have kicking around
If I needed video I would replace the G1 with the GH1 or whatever is coming next
to be happy, I think that you need two
As my primary M4/3 it would be a G1 or GH1 with the 14 45 and the 20mm coming very quickly to be mated with an EP-1.
The G1 with anything before the EP1, (or GF1), is my point
The 20mm would stick on the EP-1 (almost),permanently to give OS in camera as the "carry" around
The G1 is a great host for any (unused), legacy stuff that you may have kicking around
If I needed video I would replace the G1 with the GH1 or whatever is coming next
to be happy, I think that you need two
robert blu
quiet photographer
Grazie Klly for the info about the 75 viewfinder. But my actual budget is quite low...
robert
robert
HuubL
hunter-gatherer
I just bought what most of you did, the GF1/20mm combo. And now it's waiting for it to arrive. Oh yes, and I'm going to order a Mto M4/3 adapter. Are the cheap ones on Ebay (around 40-50 US$) worth trying or should I go for the real one from Panasonic?
kuzano
Veteran
The OPTIONS are changing sooo fast....
The OPTIONS are changing sooo fast....
Looks like Panasonic is announcing two new M43 bodies in March and Fujifilm is joining the race with the Micro 4/3 mount. I think I will watch a bit more. My Oly E-420 is not much bigger, with the legacy lenses I am using now on 4/3, so another 3-4 months may change the whole landscape on micro 4/3.
The OPTIONS are changing sooo fast....
Looks like Panasonic is announcing two new M43 bodies in March and Fujifilm is joining the race with the Micro 4/3 mount. I think I will watch a bit more. My Oly E-420 is not much bigger, with the legacy lenses I am using now on 4/3, so another 3-4 months may change the whole landscape on micro 4/3.
__hh
Well-known
This combination is on its way to Australia at the moment and I can't wait to try it out. Although LTM->MFT and M->MFT adapters are also on their way, I doubt that the 20/1.7 lenses and the 14-42mm Oly kit lens will be neglected much.
Frank Petronio
Well-known
For value, I'd get a used colored G1 with the kit 14-45 and a new GF1 with the 20/1.7. Then I'd sell the 14-45 (if money was tight, it is good lens) and the GF1 body. The G1 with the 20/1.7 is the combo to actually use, as it has a great viewfinder and the EP/GF bodies need an adaptor.
If Pany introduces new models they will probably overlook "our market" in favor of building some enhanced HD Video version with a million options tacked on.
If were to dream, they'd introduce a G1 with sensor improvements to give me a stop or two more highlight range and higher ISO sensitivity. And leave out the video crap. And fix the grip and controls so it fits into large American hands properly.
And then I'd sell all my other brand digi stuff for that set-up. Hell I'd go into debt for it.
If Pany introduces new models they will probably overlook "our market" in favor of building some enhanced HD Video version with a million options tacked on.
If were to dream, they'd introduce a G1 with sensor improvements to give me a stop or two more highlight range and higher ISO sensitivity. And leave out the video crap. And fix the grip and controls so it fits into large American hands properly.
And then I'd sell all my other brand digi stuff for that set-up. Hell I'd go into debt for it.
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Matus
Well-known
Frank, do you think that the Samsung NX10 could be the option?
nightfly
Well-known
Anyone using the Panasonic/Leica 25mm 1.4 4/3 lens on a Micro 4/3 camera like the EP 1? It's a pricey lens (though not by Leica standards) but seems like it might be nice on one of these.
Frank Petronio
Well-known
Don't you loose a lot of the electronic features with the regular 4/3s lenses? I heard it was hit or miss but nothing definitive.
Yeah that Samsung looks like a nice camera. Of course a whole bunch of nice cameras with pancake lenses seem to be in the work, the only amazing thing is how oblivious the manufacturers are about what it is serious photographers want.
I know I want simpler interfaces, real buttons and nicer dials, better ergonomics (rather than being the absolute smallest), good batteries, a really good EVF, real lenshades, DNG formats, blah blah blah and yet they will still give us HD Video and Scene Modes a bunch of complex crap and expect us to pay more for it.
Yeah that Samsung looks like a nice camera. Of course a whole bunch of nice cameras with pancake lenses seem to be in the work, the only amazing thing is how oblivious the manufacturers are about what it is serious photographers want.
I know I want simpler interfaces, real buttons and nicer dials, better ergonomics (rather than being the absolute smallest), good batteries, a really good EVF, real lenshades, DNG formats, blah blah blah and yet they will still give us HD Video and Scene Modes a bunch of complex crap and expect us to pay more for it.
scottwallick
ambition ≥ skill
I just picked up a GF1 with the 20/1.7 to keep me busy while my other camera is away.
First, I have found the GF1 extremely usable. It overexposes often, and I really like how easy it is to dial in EV comp. Second, the hotshow EVF is good enough. Not great, but good. I prefer it to an optical viewfinder.
I also owned the E-P1 and 17/2.8. I like this combo too, but the 20/1.7 is just a far superior lens. I like both the backside dials for 'manual' control on both the E-P1 and GF1, but I find the GF1's easier to use; however, the placement of buttons on the GF1 causes more accidental presses of this and that.
I prefer the build and look of the E-P1. The in-body IS is also a big plus, but I personally am impartial to IS. Sometimes I want blur. Plus, coming from RFs, I can hold the camera steady enough to shoot at 1/8th (especially with a 20mm lens). It is nice, though, with the longer M lenses. Meh.
The flash in the GF1 is silly but appreciated. I find it uneven and underpowered. The flash is only useful at 5 m or so, but it does do a daytime fill well enough. Indoors and close, though, I usually dial down its power by -1.5 EV.
The exposure meter on the GF1 screen is a nice touch. In both cameras, though, I take too much time going manual, clicking between the shutter and aperture modes to make it worth while. So far I've only used A mode.
I am quite happy with the 20/1.7. This is really good lens. The barrel distortion, though, is a weakness (and one shared equally by the 17/2.8). The focus ring (focus by wire) works well enough. Together, it's a sweet little package.
First, I have found the GF1 extremely usable. It overexposes often, and I really like how easy it is to dial in EV comp. Second, the hotshow EVF is good enough. Not great, but good. I prefer it to an optical viewfinder.
I also owned the E-P1 and 17/2.8. I like this combo too, but the 20/1.7 is just a far superior lens. I like both the backside dials for 'manual' control on both the E-P1 and GF1, but I find the GF1's easier to use; however, the placement of buttons on the GF1 causes more accidental presses of this and that.
I prefer the build and look of the E-P1. The in-body IS is also a big plus, but I personally am impartial to IS. Sometimes I want blur. Plus, coming from RFs, I can hold the camera steady enough to shoot at 1/8th (especially with a 20mm lens). It is nice, though, with the longer M lenses. Meh.
The flash in the GF1 is silly but appreciated. I find it uneven and underpowered. The flash is only useful at 5 m or so, but it does do a daytime fill well enough. Indoors and close, though, I usually dial down its power by -1.5 EV.
The exposure meter on the GF1 screen is a nice touch. In both cameras, though, I take too much time going manual, clicking between the shutter and aperture modes to make it worth while. So far I've only used A mode.
I am quite happy with the 20/1.7. This is really good lens. The barrel distortion, though, is a weakness (and one shared equally by the 17/2.8). The focus ring (focus by wire) works well enough. Together, it's a sweet little package.
cosmonaut
Well-known
I picked up a EP-1 from a member here. It has the 17mm which I am thrilled with. But while shopping I found out the Panny's have shorter shutter lag times. Almost as good as most DSLR's.
coelacanth
Ride, dive, shoot.
After using G1 and E-P1 last year, I just received E-PL1 (only sold with 14-42mm kit lens) on Friday and took it for a spine in the weekend. I really don't mind plasticy back (front is metal covered) lack of dials. I'm very impressed with ISO 1600 result even in color. Panny 20mm on its way to complete the small system.
Edit: A sample shot at 1600. No PP, SOOC.
Edit: A sample shot at 1600. No PP, SOOC.
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seakayaker1
Well-known
I have the GF1 with the 20/1.7 (great lens) along with a Leica M and a few Leica LTM mounts, then a a couple of Zeiss Contax G, a couple of Voightlander LTM and Nikon Rangefinder S mounts and a couple of others . . . . .
Whatever you buy, you most likely will enjoy the m4/3 experience. It has been fun picking up some older lenses and adapters to work with the GF1.
Good Luck with your decision.
Life is Grand!
Dan
~
Whatever you buy, you most likely will enjoy the m4/3 experience. It has been fun picking up some older lenses and adapters to work with the GF1.
Good Luck with your decision.
Life is Grand!
Dan
~
seakayaker1
Well-known
. . . . . I picked up a used 25/1.4 recently. With the Panasonic Adapter you do have the use of auto focus. Some sample shots located at: http://www.flickr.com/photos/26672618@N03/sets/72157624154101095/
Life is Grand!
Dan
~
Dave Jenkins
Loose Canon
I bought the E-PL1 last week. I initially found the menu system very difficult, but am finally achieving some familiarity with it. The interface of my Canon 5D is pretty much intuitive for me but I have very little experience with a point-&-shoot style menu.
I'm committed to this camera/system, because I believe it offers some definite advantages for my travel and personal work. Frankly, though, I find it almost unusable without the electronic viewfinder, which will be my next purchase. Until then, I'll carry my Hoodman loupe.
I'm committed to this camera/system, because I believe it offers some definite advantages for my travel and personal work. Frankly, though, I find it almost unusable without the electronic viewfinder, which will be my next purchase. Until then, I'll carry my Hoodman loupe.