Which Leica Meter for M3?

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Hi,

I was wondering if anyone knew which meter works with the M3? I have a Leica meter MC and Leica meter M. How do they work? Why are there red f stops and black f stops?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Ed.
 
Last edited:
Ed

First thing to do is stick masking tape on the top plate.
Then you turn the knob on the meter so it shows 1 sec then you lift it so it moves towards the meter and away from the camera, and turn it some more.

You set the camera to B and slide on the meter, then you turn the knob back so the little indix pin on the meter drops into the shutter speed index slot.

The MC has two ranges selected by the little rotary, when the rotary is pointing at red you use the red scale. You ush the big slider to make a reading, the slider at the front is a battery test. There are better instructions somewhere...

It needs a Hg cell or adopter with AgO cell. The switches normally give problems dont panic keep trying gently

Noel
P.S. the masking tape is to avoid any scratches on your top plate.
 
Last edited:
Xmas said:
Ed

First thing to do is stick masking tape on the top plate.
Then you turn the knob on the meter so it shows 1 sec then you lift it so it moves towards the meter and away from the camera, and turn it some more.

You set the camera to B and slide on the meter, then you turn the knob back so the little indix pin on the meter drops into the shutter speed index slot.

The MC has two ranges selected by the little rotary, when the rotary is pointing at red you use the red scale. You ush the big slider to make a reading, the slider at the front is a battery test. There are better instructions somewhere...

It needs a Hg cell or adopter with AgO cell. The switches normally give problems dont panic keep trying gently

Noel
P.S. the masking tape is to avoid any scratches on your top plate.
Click to expand...

The funny thing is the shutter speeds on the meter MC are standard and are different from my Leica M3. The Leica meter M has the same shutter speeds as the camera.

I'm still a little confused which meter was design specific to the M3.

Thanks.
 
Ed

The meters rotary movement is linear (actually log but dont worrk) the camera has the click stops. So if you use the wrong meter it wont matter, at all (or much) the clis in in the speeds on your selector are they equally spaced or relative to the exposure time.

Not all M3 had the old standard late ones used the 30/50/60/125...

Only worry about the masking tape, bse of meter or top plate of camera.

Noel

P.S. Ok forgot there is a meter zero screw as well
 
Xmas said:
Ed

The meters rotary movement is linear (actually log but dont worrk) the camera has the click stops. So if you use the wrong meter it wont matter, at all (or much) the clis in in the speeds on your selector are they equally spaced or relative to the exposure time.

Not all M3 had the old standard late ones used the 30/50/60/125...

Only worry about the masking tape, bse of meter or top plate of camera.

Noel

P.S. Ok forgot there is a meter zero screw as well
Click to expand...

Thanks,

I don't think the meter MC works correctly. I think the cell is shot anyway. I have the meter M that seems to be working. I'll be sure to put the tape on first. May be I will invest in the Voigtlander meter.

Ed.
 
Just use a good handheld one - like Sekonic - all others are not good enough - well ig you r serious about ur photography. I use Sekonic and a Pentax Spot meter and it's the best way IMO. But if you want snapshots - well, buy a digicam.
 
I have a Minolta incident meter that works great, but it's big. My M6 I can shoot anywhere since it has the internal meter. So I'd just like a small on camera light meter so I don't have to always depend on my Minolta meter.

What do snapshots have to do with on camera light meters?

I have D Lux-3 for that.
 
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